Adjusting Rekluse Clutch

I have an 04 WR 450 with a rekluse clutch with perch adjuster. Dealer installed the clutch so I am lacking some knowledge.

I am using 5 carbide balls with Rotella oil. Clutch engagement was pretty smooth but its getting a little "grabby" so it looks like I finally need to open it up and check the installed "gap."

I have read the instructions a few times and understand the "basics" of how clutch's work but any suggestions would be appreciated:

- To remove the clutch cover, what is the best way to move/remove the rear brake pedal?

- What is the correct "gap" amount. As I understand it, I need to replace some of the worn pressure plate(s) with one or more of the original ones that got removed when installing the auto clutch. What exactly am I measuring and what is the correct gap amount.

Sorry for the beginner questions. I know its about time I learn how to maintain the clutch. Despite the maintenance the rekluse is worth it.

Go to this website and read. It's a PDF from Rekluse, but it should answer all your questions :D ...SC

I am using the same set up. You may be wearing in your clutch basket and developing some notches in the outer basket. If your clearances are too high you should have slippage under heavy load in tall gears. :D

I am using the same set up. You may be wearing in your clutch basket and developing some notches in the outer basket. If your clearances are too high you should have slippage under heavy load in tall gears. :D

Hey Indy - Just got done installing a Rekluse and 444 cc kit/426 crank in my second 99 WR400 last night. I've just been putting around the neighborhood breaking the motor in. The Rekluse is gonna take getting used to. Up shifting without the clutch is nice a smooth but when down shifting I definitely feel resistance and am afraid I might be damaging the tranny. It feels like the clutch has not dis-engaged!? Any special technique to this? I have the perch adjuster and use it for downshifting for peace of mind. My clutch lever feels kinda like a wet noodle (flopping around with very little resistance) and seems like it would disengage the clutch just with the flopping around. Anyway, I've gotta take it out into the dirt and try it out.

If your perch adjustor is set up right you should be able to disengage the clutch for high rpm downshifts. Make sure you use the heavy spring and set the preload to prevent walking in first gear with a warmed up engine ( It should walk with a cold engine). I just make sure the throttle is backed off and the rpms are reduced before downshifting without the perch overide.

The Rekluse does not like high rpm downshifts without the use of the perch overide. :D

Indy; how do you have your auto clutch set up?

If your perch adjustor is set up right you should be able to disengage the clutch for high rpm downshifts. Make sure you use the heavy spring and set the preload to prevent walking in first gear with a warmed up engine ( It should walk with a cold engine). I just make sure the throttle is backed off and the rpms are reduced before downshifting without the perch overide.

The Rekluse does not like high rpm downshifts without the use of the perch overide. :D

Thanks for that.

Heavier spring, huh? I installed the light spring per the instructions for trail riding. I'll give the heavy spring a shot and see how it goes.

I'm guessing a little creeping is better than no creeping from a clutch longevity point of view?! Would no creeping imply too much clearance and more clutch slip (don't want that)?

I have my Rekluse set up with 5 tungsten carbide balls evenly spaced between the steel ones. I run the clearance on the tight side of spec at .030". I also have the heavy spring in the perch adjustor compressed about 0.75". This is great for smooth action on most trails but if you ride tight nasty slow single track you will want to run it on the high side of clearance like .042" . The rekluse has no compensation for heat expansion of the clutch. Therefore it will stall and not engage smoothly if you overheat the clutch plates and they expand to tighten the clearance. So for general riding I recommend the larger clearance and for high speed desert type riding I would go with a tighter clearance. :D

Thanks for the info Indy! So; when setting these up, what does the carbide balls do vs. the heavier spring? I just ordered one for my bike, and want to be ready for it!

you need the heavier spring to offset the 5 tc balls abrupt engagement. i ran the soft spring w/5 tc and had to go to the heavy for fear of drivetrain damage. :D

So basically, the TC balls make it engage (for example only) 20% sooner, and the spring takes away 10% of that? Why not just run less TC balls then?

I am running the stock balls with the heavy spring (recomened by NC mtman)on the perch adjuster and the thing works awsome IMO :D

TC balls, light spring and it has no abrupt engagement issues...mine comes in just off-idle and I don't feel any problem.

TC balls, light spring and it has no abrupt engagement issues...mine comes in just off-idle and I don't feel any problem.

what gearing ya running rich? the problem may have been amplified by my 13/52. with taller gearing i could see it not being as abrupt(either that or your just not on the gas hard enough :applause: ) but if your running 13/50-52 i'd run the heavy spring :banghead:

Can you get the tungsten balls some place other than Rekluse? They're asking $5 a piece. Also, I know I'm going to need a longer clutch cable to use the perch adjuster on my '05. Where's another non-Rekluse source for these? Danca...SC

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