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Dolce_Grappa

YZ-450 Wet Sump Kit

20 posts in this topic

Has anyone put Dr. D's wet sump kit on their YZ-450? I haven't been able to find one, could it be the same as the YZ-250F one?

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600cc is less than a quart. Who on this board is gonna feel that?

I toyed with doing the wetsump when I had my 426 and the fact of the matter is .....if your going to put your bike on a diet.....the wet sump should be the very last thing you do. The trade off is higher maintanence and decreased reliablility.

Try lighter tires, aftermarket seat , aftermarket exhuast first. Then spend your money on lowering the radiators. Lowering the center of gravity will pay off......

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btw ....the 250f kit will not work. Dr. D does not make the special pump plate that the 450f requires to allow oil to flow freely throughout the transmission. They will provide you with a templete so you can turn your stock pump plate into a wet sump plate.

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Good ideas, but how does it alter reliability? Please educate me.

if you change your oil after every race it probably doesn't. But...less oil means more frequent oil changes and less oil to disapate heat.

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I wouldnt recamend it but chcek with some of the big quad shops like east coast ATV.Since quad guys usually change them to ket sumps when they do conversions they should know.

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All,

Thanks for the input.

SATCH my next step are the radiators, however I'm looking at this option since MXA has tested it. I don't believe reliability is an issue, if Honda can do it so can Yamaha!

Addionally it's also easier and cheaper to lose a pound this way, than with titanium.

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All,

Thanks for the input.

SATCH my next step are the radiators, however I'm looking at this option since MXA has tested it. I don't believe reliability is an issue, if Honda can do it so can Yamaha!

Addionally it's also easier and cheaper to lose a pound this way, than with titanium.

Honda has separate tranny oil. Yamaha would have to lube everything including clutch with the same and small amount of oil. I would forget the wet sump kit. Why is Yamaha known for its reliability and burns no oil? If DrD stopped making the kit, it should also tell something.

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Good ideas, but how does it alter reliability? Please educate me.
Each 100cc of oil is placed back in circulation more frequently, and ends up doing more work than in a larger oil charge, wearing it out sooner.

The oil gets contaminated at a given rate/hour. less oil becomes too dirty much faster.

The oil becomes hotter faster.

The loss of a hundred cc of oil is 8.5% of a 1200cc oil charge. It's 17% of 600cc. (My son once lost 700cc in 30 minute ride due to a right engine cover gasket that slid out of position. We didn't notice the leak until we got back. 600cc - 700cc...think about it)

The YZF sump was not designed to be run wet. There is therefore a considerable risk of oil sloshing out of reach of the pickup screen, a relatively insignificant event for the return pump in a dry sump system, but potentially disasterous in a wet sump, and of splashing oil up onto the rotating crank assembly, which contributes to oil loss.

If you think it's a big advantage, put a black oil bottle behind your number plate, and have a friend put 700cc of oil in it one ride, and leave it empty on another. See if you can guess when it's empty. Bet you can't, two out of three.

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If you think it's a big advantage, put a black oil bottle behind your number plate, and have a friend put 700cc of oil in it one ride, and leave it empty on another. See if you can guess when it's empty. Bet you can't, two out of three.

I like that! :D:D

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I agree with most everyone else, the wet sump is just changing something that already works very well, 600cc's of oil is nothing- you will not notice it. I am interested in lowering my radiators though. Anyone know about this mod? :D

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I agree with most everyone else, the wet sump is just changing something that already works very well, 600cc's of oil is nothing- you will not notice it. I am interested in lowering my radiators though. Anyone know about this mod? :D

PWR makes a set of lowered YZF radiators, that are oversize and ultra-thick. Retail on the radiators is $398. Call (877) 656-9256.

Satch, Gray, Thanks for all the help.

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if you change your oil after every race it probably doesn't. But...less oil means more frequent oil changes and less oil to disapate heat.

Guess what ? It is recommended to change all oil every HOUR of use with this kit...yes it will affect performance if you do not follow the directions! :D

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I have a quad with the wet sump. I believe mine was from White Brothers. ..

However... I am considering switching back.. and this is my issue.. I really do not want to tear my frame down, have mounts for an oil tank welded on, and then have to re-powdercoat... could I get away with using some sort of oil cooler as my tank.. to at least allow recirculation of the oil, and also a place for it to cool? I was going to mount it in front of my radiator... the reason I would like to switch back is I am getting a 465 stroker...

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i dont like the whole idea of taking the oil out of the frame and letting it be considled in the transmision and engine. It makes the engine temps higher and makes you lose that reliabilty that yz's are known for.

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blast from the past right 05/06

 

My 05 YZ450 has a wet sump kit, and supposedly a factory yamaha race frame.. doesn't have any oil in it or connections or dipstick or even a vin number. Former race bike #19 yamaha/graves, so obviously wet sump was done mainly to save weight in race trim.

 

As for weight factors as a purpose, Its more than the weight saved from 600cc of oil correct, its also weight savings of a return pump/gear, oil lines/fittings/etc?

 

Regardless, I do have another stock factory 05 frame which has the oil equipment fittings/dipstick on it. I could swap my whole bike onto the other frame.

My question is, what is needed to return my engine to stock dry-sump operation, internally?

I could pull out the silicone in case here:

20140410_172652_zps4a48ef56.jpg

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There will be more to it than pulling out the silicon.  The DRD wet sump kit included two bolt on plugs the went over the oil line ports.  I'm not sure what you'll find in there. 

 

Since you don't likely have the original parts, you're going to need the complete oil pump assembly, including the rotor for the scavenging pump that runs in the case.  Then just both oil lines.  But again, I'm not sure exactly what was done to this one. 

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What that involves is, the outer part of the oil pump is the same the inner rotors are removed and the plate between the feed and scavenge section of the pump is modified. If I remember the one way check ball in the case is removed as well. If you buy a new oil pump and a new set of scavenge rotors and maybe the ball,spring and seal for the case along with the oil lines your good to go. If you pull the case off and pop the pump out and compare to the stock parts list you'll see what you need.

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