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mountainrider

650 L brakes

26 posts in this topic

I have heard running the stainless-steel wrapped brake lines makes a BIG difference ... I dunno, I always fall off before using my brakes :D

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i just bought a pair of the russel lines, cant wait to see the difference. Im gonna be doing the 17" super motard wheels/tires with a 320mm front disc, that should stop okay.

Zack

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The stainless lines make a little differance, but a larger front disk is a great improvement. With the extra grab up front, it made the steering pull to one side. I made a fork brace, and now it stops great.

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Braided lines are the best and cheapest improvement. The difference is night and day for me. If I got a new L that is the first mod I would do.

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I couldn't lock my front, because the brakes suck. That is why I put on a larger rotor. Now they don't suck, they work great. I didn't use a kit, I did it myself, ($20.00.)

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Maybe my xrl is just gifted or special but I can lock up the front or rear on dry asphalt with no problem. Infact the front grabs so hard with the new tires I have that I ripped a valve stem out of the tube when the tire slipped on the rim and i now run rimlocks. For those of you with Ls that cant lock the front brake I would consider having the bike serviced, sounds like you have air in the line.Maybe armor all or some kind of lubricant on the rotor or pads? That said the 320 rotor looks cool and I suspect thats 99% of the reason they sell, its the only reason I ordered mine.

What model bike was the oversize rotor from for your $20 upgrade? Did you machine a new mount for the caliper or find an oem one that worked? Cant leave us hangin without details...

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I lock up my stock brakes on pavement at will ... and with my 220#, I get good traction :D

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trying to lock up your front wheel on a motorcycle, huh... For locking up the front wheel, it does matter where you sit on the bike too, up to the tank or on the back fender so. These bikes weigh about 320 lbs plus the weight of a rider, the front calipers are only 2 piston and the rotor is undersized. I'm 6'1" and about 165 and to get my bike stopped from speeds, I basically need to use the full capacity of the brakes. The brake line expansion (mostly front) is killing force that could have been used on the pads so thats why i got the lines and want a larger rotor.

Captain M, you gotta let us know what ya did! Very curious.

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I am 6', 210lbs and you are correct about body placement while braking hard with the front end , sit on the tank get a stoppy sit at the rear and the front end will start to hop after its skidded a few feet (if you dont fall).

I still cant understand why my brakes will allow me to do a stoppy and most everyone elses brakes are worthless . I will admit the brakes are less than stellar compared to my zrx but they are still capable of gripping hard enough to throw a grown man over the bars, and will stop the bike in about 1/2 the distance of a car at the same speed. The stock brake will grab harder than the traction available at the tires contact patch with the road so other than fade resistance I would like an explanation of the advantages. You can jam a steel bar in the spokes but its still not gonna stop in any shorter distance or create any higher braking g-load than the tire can withstand, the factory brakes exceed the tires grip with ease.

Maybe learning to ride in the early seventies with drum front and rear has made me less picky than most but I think the stock brakes are great.

On another note if anyone is willing to share the info on which cheap 320 rotor will bolt on ,I have a cnc machine shop and would be happy to design and machine some caliper relocation brackets to share cheap ( roughly $20 anodized) with the group.

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EBC has the rotors. My bike is motarded and the front tire will handle bigger brakes. Brain at Thumper Talk is tring to get me hooked up with some good brakes. So far they have the best price on the brake lines.

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I couldn't lock my front, because the brakes suck. That is why I put on a larger rotor. Now they don't suck, they work great. I didn't use a kit, I did it myself, ($20.00.)

So whats up Captain? :banghead:

I need the 20$ fix! :lol:

Don't make me beg.. :banghead:

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I'm sure it has something to do with him fabricating a caliper relocation bracket. I saw one for sale somewhere, but it was like $90 or something for a chunk of billet aluminum. Give me a break!

I was thinking about fabbing up a bracket, but thought twice about my welding skills being the only thing stopping my bike before a corner beside a cliff.

Technically all you have to do is "space" the caliper back a bit to line up with the 320mm rotor, and you're set. Some of the super high bling SM kits include new master cylinders, levers, lines, 4/6 pot calipers, rotors, mounts, etc.

One more vote for pictures/info!

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I wonder if they changed the brakes on the newer models. I am able to lock the front up whenever I feel like it and I have not changed anything. Maybe it is that my brake lines are new and not yet stretched out.

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Maybe learning to ride in the early seventies with drum front and rear has made me less picky than most but I think the stock brakes are great.

.

ROFL Amen to that! Add some SS braided lines and some nice pads and you could get in trouble! :banghead:

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