fuel screw install

[knucklehead]

i got my zip ty screw friday and tried to install it - man what a pain.

i used a screw to jam up in there to remove the plug but each time i pulled it out with pliers the plug wouldnt come out.

should i just get the manual and remove the carb or is there a easier work around?

thanks in advance.

[Matty05]

I would only bother removing the carb if you were going to change jets and needle as well as look at the float height.

Get a JD jetting kit and do all the work at once as it is a pain in the ass to get the carby out.

[Tbone81]

I installed one this weekend. I rotated the carb so I could access the plug from the left hand side of the bike.

1 Removed the seat

2. Removed the tank.

3. I disconnected the tps.

4 Removed the mounting bolts from the smog pump (2ea.)

5. Disconnected the throttle cables.

That gave me plenty of access to rotate without removing the carb completely. I then used a scribe and pried the plug out.

[knucklehead]

awsome - just what i was looking for!

[Dodjy]

Just loosten the clamps holding the carby on, undo and pull out the hot start, tilt the carb over to the right then unscrew and take off the fuel bowl. Just punch the plug out from the inside. Will take about 5 - 10 minutes total.

[vantolr]

awsome - just what i was looking for!

I just ordered a fuel screw and will be doing the same mod. What did you find was the easiest way? I've done the JD kit and was able to swivel the carb. to get access to install the kit. Is that what you did?

[vantolr]

Just loosten the clamps holding the carby on, undo and pull out the hot start, tilt the carb over to the right then unscrew and take off the fuel bowl. Just punch the plug out from the inside. Will take about 5 - 10 minutes total.

I'm assuming after you "punch" the plug out, the fuel screw simply threads into the punched out hole, correct? My fuel screw should be arriving today and I want to avoid any problems.

[knucklehead]

once you pull out the plug - remove the old screw and make sure to keep the o-ring and spring and place them on the zip ty fuel screw for reinstall.

the fuel screw will have this in the directions.

it only says to remove the intake manifold for access and i wasnt sure where that was.

[Dodjy]

Once you get the fuel bowl off you will see what to do (like Knucklehead said don't loose the spring and washer etc)

[Joe Reitman]

2 minute method- rotate carb 20-25 degrees to the right, no need to loosen or detach anything.

Install approx 6-7" long 1/4" spade bit (for drilling wood) into small drill. I used pneumatic 3/8" because it is very compact.

Remove countershaft sprocket cover for that extra bit of clearance. Drill up into fuel screw cover at angle. The vibration of the point of the bit loosens the cover. Don't drill very far or you will mar your carb at the edge of the part of the carb body around the cover. Don't ask me why I know this. You can avoid this by modifying the spade bit- grind down the outside points leaving the middle.

Find a very small hobby type screwdriver, like you would use to tighten the screws on eyeglasses. Use it in the small hole in cover and pop it out with a crowbar type motion.

It took me two days of head scratching to come up with this, but it only took 2 miutes to do.

PS- in lieu of the Zip ty or a stubby scewdriver you can turn an eye screw into a mini screwdriver with 2 minutes work on the grinder. I used a medium sized eye screw, about what you would use on a picture frame. 4 mm diameter, about a #12 or #14 screw, shortened to about 40-45 mm. Works great, and free. Of course it stays in your tool box or bag, not on the bike...

[knucklehead]

i got my fuel screw installed today.

i removed the carb from the air intake and from the cylinder head by loosening the clamps on both side then rocking the carb from side to side - pretty easy.

my carb didn't have the plastic plug i expected to see - so i removed the stock screw and simply replaced it.

oh yes i removed the seat, tank, and the hot start plunger.

thanks for the info everyone!!