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pbusanga

Edelbrock idle please help me in Africa

21 posts in this topic

hi i have just put an edelbrock (new) on my 2004 xr 650 (it is a new bike only 5miles on clock) the bike starts easier but is sluggish of idle and pops on deceleraton. i have read threads on tuning the Edelbrock ,smple enough. however there is a problem which i have not been able to find in the forum, when cold the bike will start easily but will not idle until warm, also when the throttle is blipped it take a second or so for it to throttle down to idle (this is once it has warmed up) i have checked cables for binding etc. does anyone have any suggestions. which reminds me why didnt edelbrock make a bracket to use the original xr throttle grip assembly and cables it is a much better unit than the one which they supply with the carb...my little gripe

i am running 14 clicks of rich on red knobby thingy and 1.5 from full in on pumper.

i have an FMF Power core 4 with a power bomb header and a KN filter i have not drilled the panels...yet

thanks in advance for help

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Open up the side panel, Check for vacum leaks, Try richining your fuel mixture untill the popping goes away, then turn your adjuster lean a click or two.....

Congrats on the new ride....Your gonna luv it... :D

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thanks for reply. interesting you should mention vacuum leaks as i have greased around the lip where the KN filter fitted into airbox as i was not confident in the seal. it seems strange to me that the air filter just pops in and appears to be held by the side panel pressure any suggestions for ensuring a good seal or is it ok as is

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Greasing the lip of your filter is a good idea.. :D

I meant, check for vacum leaks where the carb mounts on the boot to the engine... :D

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I would think that even though the motor is new, the hanging idle is from a lean mixture. I would check to see what needle is in the carb and if it came with the #17, install the #19 at the settings you described. Then richen it a couple of clicks to see if the idle comes down like it should.

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the bike came with the standard card and the idle was not hanging, only started when i put the Edelbrock on. this would suggest that it is either a vacuum leak or a lean mixture as exhaust has not been altered. i would tend to lean (no pun intended) to a lean mixture as i had popping on deceleration. i will play with adjustments this weekend and check for vacuum leak.

will keep you posted on results.

thank you all for your suggestions

great bike great forum

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yes i have the 48 state model. the intake manifold is open not the oval restricted one.have also done the airbox mods (removed restrictor baffles).i am awaiting the arrival of the pro Barnums air intake kit for the side panel to open it up more.

i richened the mixture to 11 clicks (from full rich) and adjusted the AP to just less than 1.5 turns (richer). the bike is still popping terribly on deceleration and is not picking up as well as the stock carb. i have the #19E needle installed (came standard) i may have to try the #21E but this seems unusual as i have not seen this needle installed on any Xr unless it had 680cc kit, hot cams etc.

the bike does not seem to want to rev out in taller gears. all this points to a lean mixture but as i seem to have richened the mixture more than most this is baffling. i am at sea level here humidity 90% temp 30c.

i guess i have to keep playing with it

the Edelbrock i have did not come with an enricher for cold starting as it is the newer model yet the AP is set at 1.5 which is the setting for the older carb. i have seen people on the forum suggest AP at 2.5 this does definetely not work on mine. is this the setting for the old carb?

all suggestions welcome as i am dying to get the bike n the dunes and can't until it is set up correctly

cheers everyone

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I did not want to start a whole new thread but I am having the same problems!!! I about pulled my hair out with this bike over the last few days.

I had never really rode this bike before tearing into it, but basically it was a good running uncorked 01. I took it all apart, lubed and cleaned everything, had my buddy at his shop throw on the Edlebrock he got me and I put on a Moriwaki exhaust.

Loaded up the bike and went to about 6000 feet...I could not get this thing to run right after two days of messing with it and I just gave up and parked it and drank beer on the lake!

It will not idle well, adjusting seems to make little if any difference, the trhottle allways runs on after closing it...and basically is just crap...WHAT THE FU*K AM I DOING WRONG!!! PLEASE HELP!!!

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I did not want to start a whole new thread but I am having the same problems!!! I about pulled my hair out with this bike over the last few days.

I had never really rode this bike before tearing into it, but basically it was a good running uncorked 01. I took it all apart, lubed and cleaned everything, had my buddy at his shop throw on the Edlebrock he got me and I put on a Moriwaki exhaust.

Loaded up the bike and went to about 6000 feet...I could not get this thing to run right after two days of messing with it and I just gave up and parked it and drank beer on the lake!

It will not idle well, adjusting seems to make little if any difference, the trhottle allways runs on after closing it...and basically is just crap...WHAT THE FU*K AM I DOING WRONG!!! PLEASE HELP!!!

jeez your problem sounds exactyly like mine. i have emailed Rob Barnum at Barnumspro where i purchased the carb. when he replies i will post it here assuming it helps. i hope we have not got dud carbs as everybody else on forum has rated these carbs. especially how easy they are to tune.

i am reaching the point where i might have to put the original carb back on but that would be a shame as the Edelbrock is supposed to make the bike fly. if you solve the problem please post how you did it

cheers

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well I searched old posts and I guess we never found the problem.....or did you?

I just pulled this bike out after allmost a year parked....it still does the same thing....

ANYONE?? PLEASE HELP!!! Or who wants to buy my Edlebrock....

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i hope this carb isn't as hard to tune as it seems. i bought one last week and should be getting it soon.

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Backfiring and popping on deceleration and a hanging idle is a definite sign of a lean condition. The needle adjuster on the Edelbrock only affects the first 1/3 of the throttle opening, needle size affects the last 2/3s. Keep richening the adjuster (clockwise) until the popping stops. If the needle is in the full rich position and you still get popping, install the next larger needle and go from there.

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I did find out what the problem was apparantly it is a common problem. the float needle sticks causing the fuel to enter the carb too slowly. the carb should fill up to half way up the float needle, in 3-5 secs otherwise work the needle in the carb until it moves freely.(mine was taking at least 10sec to fill)

this happened on my new carb and was causing a lean situation when i opened the throttle up, basically fuel starvation. it also created problems with tuning the carb as the problem was intermittent....now fantastic dont get rid of this carb

hope this helps. thanks to Chris from Edelbrock and Rob Barnum for helping me find the soloution :ride:

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Ok cool, I just spoke to Chris, I am going to go pull it off and see what I can find. Will report back, thanks pbusanga!

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Maybe you read my post in another Edelbrock thread, but in case you did not, I will try to be brief. My Edelbrock equipped WR400 started running lean at times, especially when fuel level was low and at WFO for anything over 30 seconds. I suspected a fuel blockage but it turned out that the float valve was sticking. The clip on the valve that wraps around the float tang had broken (half the clip was still on the valve, the other half in the float bowl) and the float was not pulling the valve open. Apparently, the pressure of the fuel when the tank was full was enough to push the valve open, and not enough when the level was low. Anyway, Edelbrock sent me a new valve assy (freebie) with a new clip attatched, I installed it, end of problem.

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wait a second, what clip?

There is a float valve that has a tiny ball bearing at the end, when the float comes up, it pushes the valve in and stops fuel, when the float goes down, I assume teh pressure of the fuel pushes the valve back out. There is nothing attached to the float valve, it just sits in the thing....is this right? I dicked with it all day, took it all apart cleaned everything very well. Finally got the bike to start, throttle response was much better but still lousy idle, I have been richening and it is getting better but still I am very unhappy with this thing.

I am going to try and play with some more in just a bit.

Thanks everyone...I think I am getting close.

Also I should add, Chris was helpful on the phone today, I know he is trying to make sure I am not overlooking anything. Here are my settings right now.

19e needle, about 10 clicks out from full rich right now and 1 1/2 out on the pump.

I have a stock engine, full Moriwaki exhaust , drilled side cover, Uni filter and XR's only backfire screen. I have double checked valve adjusmet and it is spot on.

:ride:

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wait a second, what clip?

:ride:

Mine has a wire clip that snaps onto the float valve and wraps around the tang on the float that pushes against the valve. The wire clip pulls the valve open when the float drops.

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