switching to synthetic?

i ride/ race on mx tracks only, and im looking to change oil brands from yamalube to something fully synthetic, the bike is a yz250 and i normally ride in sand/clay. somebody RECOMMEND MY OIL!

qadsan,

If what the motorcycle specific oil providers are correct, then there in no way that I can get away with what I'm doing, what I have been doing since around 2000. I've fried no clutches, burned no valves, siezed no cranks.. I beat the snot out of my bikes. Broken frames are no result of car oil use. :D

Consumer reports ran long term tests of automobile oil in motorcycles and found no differences whatsoever in performance/maintenance/wear, you name it.

I think that the makers of motorcycle specific oils are like car salesman. They tell you things so that you will buy their product. They may have truth in what they say, but I know of nobody who has had failures attributed to using car oils.

Here is an interesting read on a Synthetic oil life study. Very thorough.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

Thanks Gadsan. I'm going to investigate the two Honda factory oils to see how they stack up. That's probably the best place to start. I'll run back with my questions after that!!

LotOfBikes, not all passenger car oils will offer the minimum performance / longevity of JASO MA oils, but all JASO MA oils meet the minimum specs for our bikes. Just because an oil that works for you in your application doesn't mean that same oil will offer the performance, longevity & protection in all motorcycles / applications. All bikes are not created equal and some will be much harder on the oil than others. It's also a fact that oils do change formulations and they change without your approval and without notice to you. An API ‘S’ rated oil could have their EP/AW package further reduced without notice to you and it would still meet its API ‘S’ rated specs, but it means your bike’s engine will have less protection compared to a JASO MA or API C (HDEO) oil that has to meet certain minimum specs for a more rigorous application. 'Some' passenger car oils may be acceptable while others will fall short of the weakest motorcycle oils, but it’s your choice. The oil you use may be fine, but unless you know for sure, then you're taking a gamble. Some passenger car oils can't handle the higher temperatures and will shear down much quicker than the cheaper motorcycle oils and the wear levels will be significantly increased while some passenger car oils will do the job just fine.

Using a high quality automobile oil of sufficient viscosity typically won't result in fried clutches, burned valves, seized cranks, etc, unless you're viscosity grade is way out of line or you're using something that's way off base for your application. Passenger car oils don't need to meet the minimum specifications that motorcycle oils do. Using an oil that doesn't meet the minimum specifications for either API ‘C’ rated oils (AKA HDEO) or motorcycle oils rated JASO MA means you're using an oil that does not have to meet certain minimum specifications for HTHS, additization, etc. Oils on the weaker end of the API ‘S’ rated spectrum are the ones that will cause more wear and tear on your engine than oils at the upper end, but unless you're just lucky or know what to pick, then your bike's engine will have increased wear levels which can easily be confirmed through oil analysis. This doesn't always mean your bike will quickly fail, but its inevitable slow death will be sped up if you’re using newer API ‘S’ rated oils that are in the lower end of the performance / protection spectrum when compared to using oil that meets the minimum specifications recommended by the engine manufacturer.

It really is pretty simple to get the facts on oil related topics. Simply get on an oil analysis program and see the results for yourself because the science is there as opposed to here-say / speculation. You can also download the API and JASO specifications to read more in depth information about these oil specifications. For some very interesting accredited scientific tests & information, you can simply visit the SAE www.sae.org and download all kinds of studies related to oils, lubrication, failure analysis, etc.

"inevitable slow death"???

Well then the question becomes: when will any of my motorcycles fail? What kind of "death"? Explosion?

I know, from all of my experiences to date, that I will never have engine wear or failure because of the oil that I use. I am not going to spend another dime on motorcycle specific oils ever again. Once every 4000 miles for the past five years, Quaker 10w-40. Closing in on 60,000 miles.

The "death" you speak of is inevitable. Not from oil.. I'm guessing that I'll easily get 100,000 miles out of my 650L. That’s a pretty darn slow death.

Well, Lotsobikes, your testimony does speak for itself! Do you know others that have had similar experiences with oil?

Oil choice is a tough one. I used MC specific oils in my old DR350 until one day I went with Chevy Delo-400 15w40 oil. On my new XR650 I switched to Mobil 1 15w50 around 400 miles and I plan to keep on usining it. I will probably run Mobil 1 5w40 in the winter months.

What ever makes you feel good. As pointed out, the big thing is make sure you put in the right viscosity and you should be covered.

Another forum that is really good is www.bobistheoilguy.com. under their motorcycle section. Oil analysis's have been done on nearly every oil and you can see exactly what's going in your bike.

Does Mobile One make a 10w40 in their synthetic blend? I can only find 5w30 and 10w30. Thanks

Mobil 1 makes 10w40 but it is the motorcycle specific blend MX4T 10w40. Why not just use the Mobil 1 Truck SUV 5w40? The excellent thing about this oil is that it is the only Mobil 1 with NO moly to include their motorcycle specific oils if that is a concern for you.

I used to use the old red cap Mobil 1 20w-50 synth in my bikes, however now all I can find is the new "super slip" blends. I read that this new formula was not a good choice for motorcycles and have been running dino 20w-50 since. I feel I need the heavier wgt. oil here in So. Texas as the summers are really brutal on airheads.

Any comments?

Stupid question: My bike calls for 10w40 and I understand viscosities as it relates to temp. So will running 0w40 matter?

Stupid question: My bike calls for 10w40 and I understand viscosities as it relates to temp. So will running 0w40 matter?

NO the W stands for Winter, the lower the number the better for cold weather.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com is your friend. :applause:

Go with the Mobil 1 15w50 from Wal-Mart and forget about it.. It's about as good as anything you could buy and is readily available.. It wont hurt your clutch or anything else for that matter.. Good stuff, used it in all kinds of bikes, cars, lawn mowers, generators, air compressors, you name it for years with no failures whatsoever.. I have a Nissan pickup that has been on the stuff since new and has 347,000 miles, runs like new.. It's just as good for bikes, Dont worry about tranny trouble either, I've run it in all kinds of bikes including 2 stroke gear boxes with flawless results.. No problem, use it... :applause:

:applause: Remember, air cooled motors run hotter.I live in the tropics and the lowest temp we get here is 70+/- Sill we mostly see 90-100.I've always used 20w-40. Just to be sure I change my oil every 1000 miles or monthly.Being a daily driver/conmuter and occasional trailbuster it's the least i can do.Just my 2¢

I am running Mobil 1 Gold Cap in my 525EXC. I don't know if it runs cooler but if I go by the seat of my pants while riding I would say it does not (for whatever that's worth). Also it is not the oil that my trany has shifted best with.

Still there are too many positive testamonials for me to ignore so I will stick with the Mobil 1 Gold Cap for a year and give it a real test.

My Transmissions like Delo-400 which is the best shifting oil I have ever run in my bikes. But you do have to keep it changed regularly or you will lose the good shifting attribute.

Well since I started the thred I gues I should answere my question the mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oil made my bike shift better and it looked like it still had life left in it after 1700 mi.

The trans in my old 83 XR shifts so easy now with 15-50 mobile1 in it Ive gotta be careful about touching the dang shifter while tooling about town on the thing. Although the clutch worked better on 10-40 valvoline allclimate.

Qadsan, delve into the Diesel specific applications and the zinc content. Ive been running Shell Rotella Syn. in my truck and car recently and those have never run better. The difference in my truck (1996 Dodge Ram with 5.9 {360ci}) was remarkable. It was like a dang tune up. The idle was smoother in and out of gear and it runs a tad cooler, right on the 180 thermostat now where before it could creep up to 200 with 15-50 Mobile1 or anything else that's been through it...

The trans in my old 83 XR shifts so easy now with 15-50 mobile1 in it Ive gotta be careful about touching the dang shifter while tooling about town on the thing. Although the clutch worked better on 10-40 valvoline allclimate.

Qadsan, delve into the Diesel specific applications and the zinc content. Ive been running Shell Rotella Syn. in my truck and car recently and those have never run better. The difference in my truck (1996 Dodge Ram with 5.9 {360ci}) was remarkable. It was like a dang tune up. The idle was smoother in and out of gear and it runs a tad cooler, right on the 180 thermostat now where before it could creep up to 200 with 15-50 Mobile1 or anything else that's been through it...

I put Shell Rotella Syn. in my wifes car this weekend-but they only had 5w-40 where I bought it. Would 5w-40 be safe to use in my xr650r?

I put Shell Rotella Syn. in my wifes car this weekend-but they only had 5w-40 where I bought it. Would 5w-40 be safe to use in my xr650r?

I wouldnt put 5-40 in the bike because of the way the trans grinds up the oil, unless you were going to change it every 2 hours. And the clutch will want more of a cushion. Seems like Honda clutchs like 20-50 a little better, action wise, its just smoother.

And for the record, I believe 5-40 is supposed to be, 5wt that protects as well as 40 when at temp. So the first number is the actual wieght. I may have that backwards tho...

Qadsan knows for sure I think.

I put Shell Rotella Syn. in my wifes car this weekend-but they only had 5w-40 where I bought it. Would 5w-40 be safe to use in my xr650r?

YES!!!!

Shawn, you do have it backwards. The 5 is the Winter Weight of the Oil. The 40 is the Actual Weight of the Oil. Assuming you don't just start up you bike and then immediately get on it and start hammering on the Motor and GearBox the Bikes gearbox would never be able to tell the difference between the 5w-40 and the 15W-40. The 5W-40 is a Group III oil which is a highly refined Dino and being a 5W instead of 15W will protect your engine better at start up. More about Rotella-T I personally plan on Running it in my bike. All you Mobil 1 fans boys should be aware that POST-Katrina M1 has vastly different chemistry than pre-Katrina and some of the Ratings/Approvals are not there or have been issued some sort of temporary certificate. Only use stuff dated prior to 09/05. The best Shit out there is probably Delo-1 also rebranded as M1 Truck and SUV. Everyone needs to go spend some time on BITOG and read up.

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