Looseness in front end

I put my bike on the stand and grab the bottom of the fork tubes. When I move them back and forth, I get movement (I call it shucking, don't know why). It is hard to tell where it is coming from, it almost feels like slop between upper and lower fork tubes :eek: . Knowing on how not to fix that I went and tried to adjust the steering head bearings after I loosened the nut that clamps the top triple clamp to the stem. I tightened it about 1/4 turn but the looseness didn't improve and steering felt like there was a slight drag on it. So I backed it off 1/8 turn on bearing spanner nut and put everything back together again. What's up anybody know? The bike only has 500 miles on it. Is this inherent in upside down forks? :applause:

Thanks for the help, Jeff

Bump...

You should only have bit more torque on the steering head nut than it takes to remove play from the headset. If your lowers tubes are "shucking" (I asume front to back), I would check the upper and lower clamps to see they are tight on the fork tubes. Otherwise, I suppose it could be slop between the upper and lower tubes.

Of course, I'm no expert; Anyone else

its more than likely the play in the fork tube bushings(inside the upper tube),its normal 1/16- maybe 1/8" play(at the axle end) any more than that and you need new bushings. just make sure your triples are torqued to spec( i beleive about 15 ftlbs) and don't overtighten the steering stem as mentioned, the resistance of the stem bearings should be minimal turning the bars side to side. :D

Thanks for the info. Pretty sure the looseness is where the fork tubes meet. It feels like only a 1/16" of slop.

For the steering stem bearings, I read the manual and it says 27 ft lb initial on ring nut, loosen 1 turn, retighten to 5.1 ft lb. I have torque wrenches but no ring nut adapter so I use hammer & punch. Basically it is a 1/4 turn tighter than stock. Is this part assembled in Japan or the bike shop for final delivery? Then it says 105 ft lb for the steering shaft nut (nut that holds the triple clamps on) that seems like a lot. I noticed a little drag after that tightening. Should I loosen up the bearing ring nut back to where it was?

Jeff

loosen up to the point where no drag is felt

I crank mine down with a cheater bar... It makes a real cheap stearing-damper... :D J/K

loosen up to the point where no drag is felt

It's a little hard to tell because the cables still pull some even though the handlebars are loose. Maybe I'll loosen up some more.

check it by moving slightly side so side to the point, where the cables dont yet kick in

I'm with NC mountainman....I noticed a little slop in the fork tubes, and was having intermittent issues with my fork seals. I had them put new bushings and seals in and the slop went away. The owners manual calls them "metals"...as in metal bushings I suppose (Must be the Japanese translation)

I say run it until the seals start to leak, then have the whole shootin' match rebuilt (or do it yourself).

Thanks for the info. Pretty sure the looseness is where the fork tubes meet. It feels like only a 1/16" of slop.

For the steering stem bearings, I read the manual and it says 27 ft lb initial on ring nut, loosen 1 turn, retighten to 5.1 ft lb. I have torque wrenches but no ring nut adapter so I use hammer & punch. Basically it is a 1/4 turn tighter than stock. Is this part assembled in Japan or the bike shop for final delivery? Then it says 105 ft lb for the steering shaft nut (nut that holds the triple clamps on) that seems like a lot. I noticed a little drag after that tightening. Should I loosen up the bearing ring nut back to where it was?

Jeff

Set the ring nut finger tight, when you torque the top nut to 105ft/lb it'll "crush" the threads enough to get the ring nut in spec...

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