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crooks420

stock 05 wr450 exhaust mod

24 posts in this topic

I just got a new 05 WRF 450, and am wondering what I can do to the stock exhaust. .... i want to get as much juice from it, but still keep it quiet. Can I just remove the inner tube? How is this done, do I grind out the two rivets??

Jesse

82 Yamaha XT 550

87 Kawasaki KLR 650

05 Kawasaki KLR 650

05 Yamaha WRF 450

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$59 bucks for that????

:p

:applause: Dude, that thing is great at only 59 duckets......... It helped my bike on performance and the sound is still nice and quiet. If'n yous guys don't wanna spend 400+bones on a new system like I didn't, It is the perfect altenative! :eek::)

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Thankss for the info, i may just fork over the $60 for the PMB insert. I have a few more questions though; all i have done so far is cut the throttle screw and added a UNI air filter.

Questions: 1) I will ride the 450 at various elevations/ locations, so I am hesitant on re-jetting....... What ORDER should I do the Mods?

2)If I go with the PMB exhaust insert, should I remove the air intake snorkle? Will I notice anything, or do I also need to do the grey wire?

3) Basically, what can I do without re-jetting?? (AIS removal, exhaust insert, air snorkel, grey wire)..... or will one or more of these mods REQUIRE the JD kit?

Thanks for the help

Jesse

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There are those who would argue that in stock form it needs the JD kit.

Keep in mind that the '05 has a non-adjustable jet needle. The midrange on these bikes is lean from the factory. At high elevations, you're probably going to be on the edge of okay. At seal level, it's lean. My 250 came with a 168 main. It runs really sweet on a 182 with the JD needle. On the stock needle, it runs pretty good on a 175.

Rejetting is strongly suggested with the airbox cutout mod, required for the YZ cam swap. You can get away with pulling the airbox snorkel with stock jetting.

Cut the grey wire today :applause:

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In the 6-wire connector on the kick-starter side under the tank.

You have to pull the tank to get to it.

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...Keep in mind that the '05 has a non-adjustable jet needle...

Just exactly what is the jet needle? I looked at the parts diagram and the only thing that seems to come close is the "jet, needle" (part number 18 in the drawing in the link below). How critical is this part when it comes to jetting?

partimage.gifx?d=60032,2,0

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Non-adjustable clip? There are several needles to choose from in the Yamaha catalog but it would be a pain to not be able to adjust it. Do needles from earlier models not fit?

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Being an FCR, there is no reason that an '04 needle won't fit... and nobody has reported that the JD kit hasn't worked.

Ya... part of being green-stickered was the addition of the AIS, the removal of the alternative needle clip grooves, and the blocking of the fuel screw.

Remove your bowl and run a punch down through the top and pop the "washer" out so you can adjust your bottom end.

We'll have this to look forward to on the '06 WR250F

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Thanks. I've got a '99 WR but I just installed a carb from an '04 WR450. I had heard that the newer models had carbs that were not adjustable to some degree but I wasn't sure which model years were affected. The '04 carb is not much different than the original one except for the update design. Glad I didn't get an '05 carb.

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I've also recently bought an '05 WR450 and i'm still running with the stock exhaust. The dealer removed that black plastic restrictor in the inner tube but my question is, can you run without that inner tube altogether?

The inner tube i'm talking about is the one you see when you take off the endcap and it also goes into the mesh spark arrestor thing.

I took it off the other day and it was a little louder than stock (not too bad) and also noticed that there must be a bit of turbulence inside the endcap because a bit of condensation was seeping out around it rather than out the end.

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The turbulence issue from the lip on the cone is what would keep me from running without the stinger. There's also the matter of securing the spark arrestor.

Check the ProMotoBillet site... they have a replacement stinger that's larger and still as quiet as the stock unplugged pipe.

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my question is, can you run without that inner tube altogether?

The inner tube i'm talking about is the one you see when you take off the endcap and it also goes into the mesh spark arrestor thing.

I took mine off and I feel it is a bit better. I am pissed that it has the baffle plate half way though. I have ordered a Procircuit TI GP exhaust to get around this problem!

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I have done both. I got the ProMoto dodad, and a full exhaust system I am happier with full exhaust system, but my wallet is a little lighter.

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Ok guys..... You helped alot. So last night I pulled the seat, covers and tank off; I removed the grey wire from the plug (I hate the idea of cutting if I dont have to), and busted the snorkle out of the airbox. I also ordered: the JD kit, AIS removal kit, the ZIP-T fuel screw (FMS01---- is this the right one for the 05 CA WR 450?) and the PMB exhaust insert. I will test ride before the JD kit and see how I like it. If then I feel the need to do the JD kit, then I am sure I might have a few more questions for Y'all. My main concern is that I want be able to ride from sea-level up to about 8000 ft. without touching the carb. If anyone has any tips on doing the carb up for this elevation range, please.... let me know.

Jesse

82 Yamaha XT 550

87 Kawasaki KLR 650

05 kawasaki KLR 650

05 Yamaha WR 450

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Wow... sea level to 8k is quite a range.

The richest you will need to be will be low elevation and low temperatures. The leanest you'll need to be will be high elevation and high temps.

Assuming that you are planning the dez for the winter and mountains for the warmer months, that gives a little relief, but you probably aren't going to have it running tip-top at both extremes... certainly not to 8k. Sea level to 4k is doable... you'll just be a little on the rich side at 4k, but at 8k... wow. You'll either be slobbering-rich at 8k or dangerously lean at sea level.

It really is not that big of a deal to change the main jet.. it's a 2-minute job, and the bowl does not have to come off. All you need is a 6mm socket, an inspection mirror, and an empty beer can to catch the fuel that you drain from the carb.

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ok... 2 min is not a bad deal for better performance. Now lets say I dial it in at Sea level.... needles, leak jets and all in the JD kit, all I need to do for higher elevations is the two min's to change the main jet??? or do I need to change other settings/ jets/ needles? Sorry, but i am not a carb guy. I can rebuild em no problem, but dialing them in and messing with jet sizes, well I really never learned that.

Jesse

82 Yamaha XT 550

87 Kawasaki KLR 650

05 kawasaki KLR 650

05 Yamaha WR 450

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