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WR_Dave

Installing an Excel front rim

9 posts in this topic

Does anybody have any experience with relacing a rim? What sort of things should I watch for? I will be using dial indicators to set the trueness of the wheel , but I am wondering how tight the spokes should be. I don't have a spoke torque wrench but am making an adapter for my snap-on inch/pound torque wrench. Does anyone know what the torque should be :)? Thanks everyone

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Winter Sucks!

[This message has been edited by WR Dave (edited 03-06-2001).]

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Measure the rotor offset before disassembly. Don't worry about torqueing each spoke. Just tighten them evenly to feel.

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jeez, I don't know what the torque is either...

The first time I replaced a front rim with a dial indicator it took a while.

Probably 3-4 hrs...

I think that if you are using an indicator you also understand feel.

Enjoy tweeking your front wheel in...

A 21" rim is quite flexy but tenable...

Go slow and enjoy the knowing that you did it yourself.

You might try using a lubricant on the thread nipple junction, oil or whatnot will make the nipple twisting a more pleasureable expereince.

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Thanks for all the good info guys,as a new member at this site, I appreciate the help and am glad to know that there is a wealth of info to be shared by us all. Again Thanks Guys!

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Winter Sucks!

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The last set I built I used antiseize on the threads to get a more accurate feel and prevent future galling.

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Oh, another tip: use a drill motor and philips driver to spin the nipples on. It saves a lot of time.

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Once I decided to do my own wheels, I invested in the spoke nipple torque wrench. While it is a useful tool, it's far from being the miracle tool it's purported to be. Like it was mentioned before, "feel" is the best. What worked for me...after starting over twice....was to put every nipple where the spoke threads were right at the top of the nipples. From there, I used my fingers to gently snug each nipple into place. I might also mention that I lubed each nipple first to make turning them easy...and to prevent galling. Now, from here you must keep the wheel centered in relation to the hub. You can't assume that just because each nipple is set to where the spoke threads are showing that the wheel is centered via the hub. It's not a perfect world. From here, you set up your dial indicators...assuming you have some sort of truing stand. You can leave the wheel in the swingarm, but you have to be more patient...and disconnect the chain. If you are going to do this...do it right. From here, gradually turning in every third nipple works pretty well until you get to snug. From this point, things get tricky. You would do well to make smaller adjustments and have a method of keeping track with your starting point. what you want to do is try to tighten the spokes fairly evenly around the 360 degrees of the rim. Small adjustments and patience is the reward here. Tightening one spoke has the effect of loosening a few spokes on the opposite side of the rim. The one directly opposite is the most affected...and the ones next to the opposite one is affected to a lesser degree. So, make small adjustments and check the overall trueness as you go. "Feel" is important here. If the wheel gets too out of whack, start all over by putting all the nipples where just the edge of the threads just show. eventually you will get it. Allow about 4 hours the first time.

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Make sure that the rim is well centered between the forks.

Bought a used bike which had the rim offset by about 1/4? inch and it caused the side nobs to rub my fender and fork boots (1986 style forks).

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