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InternalCombustion

Edelbrock starting drill

10 posts in this topic

Okay, I just spent the last hour searching this forum (and the entire freaking internet) for comprehensive info on starting the BRP with the Edelbrock. My beloved Pig is supermoto-fied, has the QS (just-now installed), a Uni filter, Pro Circuit T4 system, airbox mod, 17" wheels, tires, street-legal kit, GPR, iridium plug, blah-blah-blah.

The four starting conditions I can think of are:

1. Engine cold, not started in at least 3-4 weeks.

2. Engine cold, not started in 24-48 hours

3. Engine warm, has been shut down for maybe an hour or two

4. Engine hot, at operating temp, just stalled it (at stoplight, etc...)

Yeah, conditions 2 and 4 are straight-forward, usually no problem for me. Condition 3 dang-near killed me the other day, kicking my brains out. For the benefit of other members if you'd describe your recommendations for all 4 situations, I would be grateful.

Ride safe.

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The four starting conditions I can think of are:

1. Engine cold, not started in at least 3-4 weeks.

2. Engine cold, not started in 24-48 hours

3. Engine warm, has been shut down for maybe an hour or two

4. Engine hot, at operating temp, just stalled it (at stoplight, etc...)

Yeah, conditions 2 and 4 are straight-forward, usually no problem for me. Condition 3 dang-near killed me the other day, kicking my brains out. For the benefit of other members if you'd describe your recommendations for all 4 situations, I would be grateful.

Ride safe.

Always start off with the leanest procedure first. That is, don't use the choke and don't twist the throttle. My WRF and it's pumper carb is very tempermental, and depending on the air temp here is So Cal, one or more of these combos can lead to an overly rich condition flooding the cylinder, especially when cold.

If you do flood it (condition 3), you can always clear it out by closing the choke if on & engine cold, then twist and hold the throttle wide open and then kick it through with the decomp lever pulled in about 10-12 times. Then go back to the leanest procedure and work it down from there.

There is a fine line for priming the cylinder before you start kicking (condition 1). No fuel = no boom. Too much fuel = no boom. A slow 1/4 twist primes my WRF and it usually fires up easily when dead cold. After that no throttle ever once warm. Pumper carbs fill the cylinder with large amounts of fuel fast so go easy.

Hope this helps & good luck.

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First off, after I'm done riding for at least a week, I drain the float bowls on all our bikes (XR's, WRF's, CR's, etc) to minimize the chance of varnish and or gum in float needle / seat and or jets.

1. Engine cold, not started in at least 3-4 weeks.

a - turn on fuel

b - 3 quick full blips of the throttle

c - bring kick start lever to tdc

d - pull in the decomp and push the kick start lever just slightly pat TDC and let the decomp lever back out

e - kick the start lever from the top of the stroke - hard smooth kick

f - varoom!

Your bike should start within a couple kicks. If it doesn't, then something is wrong (maybe in the carb settings, or valve adjustment, stale fuel, fouled spark plug, etc.)

2. Engine cold, not started in 24-48 hours

a - same as above

3. Engine warm, has been shut down for maybe an hour or two

a - same as above, but I only use one quick blip of the throttle (two at the very most)

4. Engine hot, at operating temp, just stalled it (at stoplight, etc...)

a - start as above, but do NOT blip the throttle at all

Your bike should simply start first kick without any throttle manipulation.

One common starting problem I've seen with various bikes whether they have an Edelbrock , Mikuni or Keihin carb is that people set the idle speed too low and this will make starting more difficult. Make sure your idle speed is set to spec and not any lower.

The colder the outside temperature, the more times I need to blip the throttle on a cold engine to get it to start. For instance, if the ouside temps are below 45F, then I may have to initially blip the throttle 4 or 5 times to get a quick start.

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I have found that if your going to let the bike sit for 2 or 3 hours. Shut the fuel off, if left on it seems to create a flooded condition. To start - turn fuel on, turn idle up and kick once or twice, do not give it any fuel and if it does not start only give it a partial throttle to prime it - kick again.

Oh yeah, I still go through the drill of finding top dead center on the compression stroke and then pull the decomp lever and kick about 1" past top dead center. Let the Kicker return up and give a nice easy full kick. That saves your leg.

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Internalcombustion, I'm sure dual_dog has the best of intentions with his advice, but it's airmed more for the FCR carb which is quite different than the Edelbrock. We also have a '02 WR426F and she starts within a kick or two every time cold and with one kick hot. Like dual_dog said, I'd never blip the throttle on that bike when its cold or it will flood, but the Edelbrock is a different animal. The FCR accelerator pump squirts with every single twist of the throttle. A slow 1/4 twist that primes a FCR will do absolutely zilch on an Edelbrock because the Edelbrock has a check valve in the pump circuit that returns the pump fuel to the bowl when the throttle is twisted slowly or only by a certain amount. The Edelbrock accelerator pump only squirts when you twist the throttle far enough and you have to twist it quickly, otherwise it returns the fuel in the pump circuit to the bowl and this is done by design.

There are no choke plates or butterfly valves, etc, on the Edelbrock, unlike the FCR or the stock Keihin, so you'll never have to worry about your engine eating a choke plate that breaks off from fatigue and this has been a real world problem with the stock XR carb, hence the reason Team Honda uses an aftermarket billet choke plate. The older Edelbrock carbs from a few years ago used to have an enricher lever and turning this lever 90 degrees enriched the low speed fuel circuit for easier cold starting. Edelbrock did away with this feature a couple years ago based on their experiences as they felt they could achieve good cold starts with an extra couple blips of the throttle.

Your 650r should be a one kick start bike with the Edelbrock when the engine is luke warm to hot, assuming the valve clearances are in spec, proper idle speed, good fuel, good compression, good spark, etc. It should usually take no more than three kicks to start it when its dead cold and more often than not it should start within two kicks.

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Same thing with a TM40 or other pumper Mikuni. If you give it a good wack of the throttle you will flood it. With the Edelbrock I could start my 650 without a twist sometimes before it went 680 but, both my Edelbrocks need one or two good fast wacks and they start first kick.

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First off, after I'm done riding for at least a week, I drain the float bowls on all our bikes (XR's, WRF's, CR's, etc) to minimize the chance of varnish and or gum in float needle / seat and or jets.

1. Engine cold, not started in at least 3-4 weeks.

a - turn on fuel

b - 3 quick full blips of the throttle

c - bring kick start lever to tdc

d - pull in the decomp and push the kick start lever just slightly pat TDC and let the decomp lever back out

e - kick the start lever from the top of the stroke - hard smooth kick

f - varoom!

Your bike should start within a couple kicks. If it doesn't, then something is wrong (maybe in the carb settings, or valve adjustment, stale fuel, fouled spark plug, etc.)

2. Engine cold, not started in 24-48 hours

a - same as above

3. Engine warm, has been shut down for maybe an hour or two

a - same as above, but I only use one quick blip of the throttle (two at the very most)

4. Engine hot, at operating temp, just stalled it (at stoplight, etc...)

a - start as above, but do NOT blip the throttle at all

Your bike should simply start first kick without any throttle manipulation.

One common starting problem I've seen with various bikes whether they have an Edelbrock , Mikuni or Keihin carb is that people set the idle speed too low and this will make starting more difficult. Make sure your idle speed is set to spec and not any lower.

The colder the outside temperature, the more times I need to blip the throttle on a cold engine to get it to start. For instance, if the ouside temps are below 45F, then I may have to initially blip the throttle 4 or 5 times to get a quick start.

qadsan,Works the same for me everytime, Gotta love the Edelbrock... :)

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qadsan, Since I have an auto-clutch in mine I turn my idle way down after the bike starts. So when the bike is cold I must remember to turn the idle back up if I want it to start 1st or 2nd kick.

When my bike is warm I no longer kick it I just push the E-button on my XR650R.

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...I just push the E-button on my XR650R.

cheater :)

I'm going to put the BD e-start on one of my 650r's so I can have something to play with after knee surgery next month. I dropped the side case off this morning to have it powder coated so it will look pertty for a few rides. Once it goes back off road, it won't take long before it looks thrashed :)

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qadsan, thanks for the detailed instructions, will use. Thanks to all who replied.

Awesome bike, awesome forum.

Ride safe.

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