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Sierra Smokey

Anyone have sprocket changing tips?

12 posts in this topic

Finally wore out the stock chain. Ordered a DID X-ring chain and new steel front and rear sprokets. I'm keeping the stock gearing. Other than what my Yamaha WR manual says, are there any tips that all of you have for changing the chain and sprockets? I've never changed out these parts on a bike before. Am I gonna need an impact driver to get the front sprocket nut off, or will a breaker bar work? Anything I need to look out for with the little master link that hold the chain together?

Like I said, I've never messed with a chain on a bike. My road bike is shaft drive (BMW), so it was never an issue.

Much Thanks! :)

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I think the DID X-Ring chain comes with a press-on master link, not a clip-on one. You have to have a special tool to install it, then you can't take it off without breaking the chain. If you DO get a chain with the clip-on link, install it so the closed end faces the direction of revolution. If you put it backwards, it could catch on the chain guide and come off.

NO impact driver, just a breaker bar with a 6-point socket. Make sure to torque it on properly. Same with rear sprocket bolts.

Carcass

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Use a box wrench when removing the rear sproket bolts. The nuts on there can be real mother....well, you get it.

Even a box wrench ground in half is better than an open end wrench. Sometimes the clearance is not enough to make the wrench fit.

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Smokey,

You'll defintely need a press on tool that is about $20 to put the DID X ring on. Great chain, had mine for over a year and EXCELLENT wear so far. Also, many recommend using new rear sprocket bolts when replacing the sprocket.

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my x ring came with both press on and split links!! I used the split link but noticed it had what loked like regular o rings on it......?? May have been an extra, but 700 miles on, chain is in great shape!

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Front sprocket :

Leave the chain on the bike to remove the front sprocket.

Flatten the lock washer. You can reuse it if you didn't damage it too much. Have someone apply the rear brake to lock the rear wheel.

Unscrew the large nut with a 1/2" drive socket with an extension if needed.

No impact wrench.

Rear sprocket:

It is a VERY good habit to change the sprocket bolts/nuts as well, or at least the nuts.

Stay away from the impact wrench.

These are locked nuts and have a slight oval shape when new. So when it's tighten it locks on the bolt. But when you take them out, the oval shape is rounded, no more self locking.

Use blue loctite and torque properly in a criss cross pattern.

I had to replace my rear hub, the sprocket, relace the rear wheel and new sprocket bolt assly. $$$

Once the rear sprocket is off the hub, check roundeness of the holes

Make sure you don't adjust the chain too tight. And recheck torque regularly.

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Chain and sprockets came today in the UPS truck. Sweet! My chain came with two different kinds of master links. One has the clip to hold on the side plate, the other gets the pins pressed to hold the side plate on. Which one would you recommend to use? What's the pro's vs con's of each? I did also buy the little $20 Motion Pro chain press tool.

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Chain and sprockets came today in the UPS truck. Sweet! My chain came with two different kinds of master links. One has the clip to hold on the side plate, the other gets the pins pressed to hold the side plate on. Which one would you recommend to use? What's the pro's vs con's of each? I did also buy the little $20 Motion Pro chain press tool.

I would use the clip to hold on the side plate for easier removal. Wouldn't you have to use a chainbreaker tool to get the other one off?

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Go with the press on. It is more secure than the clip.You have the tool and I don't think you will be removing the chain very often.

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