2004 xr650L engine dissasembly.

Hi, I'm gettin ready to take my engine apart to put in Thumper Racing's 675cc BBK but got a few questions before I start. For those of you who have done engine work on the top end of this engine or any work what so ever on these RFVC's, have any pointers or tips that would help along the way? I have a good service manual and it says to pull off the clutch and alternator, is this all nessicary to remove the cylinder? Any problems when instaling the cam tensioner spring? I did a search and couldnt find anything on details or write ups around, anyone know any links to one with pics or something similar? I'm just looking for some good pointers and tips to go along with service manuals steps so I dont encounter and surprises or anything. I someone wanted to do a step by step of the engine dissasembly or just somethings to watch out for along the way, I would be in debt to you. :) I would appreciate any help on the subject!!! Please let me know.

Thanks!

Zack

The clutch and alternator can stay where they are at. Thats just for complete engine dissasembly. The cylinder will come off just fine.

Per the Clymer manual- I used a pair of channel locks to hold the camchain tensioner spring back and wrapped some wire around the ends to keep the tension. Install and cut & remove the wire.

Hope this helps!

Thanks! That makes a lot more sense now about not having to remove the alt or clutch. Ill just have to take my time being the first time working on this engine, thanks for all the help!

Zack

I just remembered!!! Make sure that you are getting oil flow to the head after reassembly. if not the oil pump will need to be primed. I left the oil line loose where it connects to the head to verify that there was flow when I rebuilt mine.

Thanks XRL Rider!! You talking about the one with the copper washers on both sides right? Probabaly best to leave the top one off to make sure right, will that be enough to help the oil flowing or is it just to check? I planned on just turning the engine over with the ign. switch "off" to seat the rings, might be a good time to check for oil flow too. I really appreciate the tips!

Zack

I got antsy and started to take the top end apart tonight. I was stopped by the cover over the cam tensioner, I cannot get this thing out! The service manual I have says nothing about how this is in there or how to get it out. Can someone help me out? Thanks!!

466060_147_full.jpg

I got antsy and started to take the top end apart tonight. I was stopped by the cover over the cam tensioner, I cannot get this thing out! The service manual I have says nothing about how this is in there or how to get it out. Can someone help me out? Thanks!!

I had to replace the head gasket, and while I was that far in I also replaced the base gasket on my 650L. This was about 2 months ago so it's pretty familiar in my mind still. I bought the factory Honda service manual. It's great. It says step by step exactly what to do(way better than the clymer). As for the cylinder head cover assembly, slide it to the intakeside and remove it. I would highly recommend this manual. It tells you which parts to replace (o-rings etc) all torque values which a VERY IMPORTANT. Just for your info I found that if the head and valves are in good shape and have no problems, just pull the entire head off as one piece. Disassembly of the head is a headache! Also leave the camshaft decompresser ass. TOGETHER (also a headache). I had only two slight problems-

1. The timing chain came of the lower sprocket in the case. Keep it tightly pulled up.

2. I had no special tool for the chain tensioner. I used a small hex or Allen wrench. Just remember the bearing on the chain tensioner shaft is a one way bearing.

After I wrote all this I looked at your link. If the part in the picture is what you want to remove, this is the cam chain tensioner shaft. To remove it, grab it with pliers and pull straight out. It comes out no problem. If I remember correctly, the reason it appears to not want to come out is because of the o-ring seal that creates suction. Like I said I think thats why. But I am sure it just pulls out. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the help dabeyta3!!! Your advice really helped me out! I took the valve cover off and tapped on the side of the cam tensioner with a rubber hammer, it popped out enough to grab it. Im keeping the stock valve springs and I'm replacing the cam with the stage 1 Hot Cams so I'll leave the head together.

I wish I would have bought the Honda service manual because I am dissapointed with the Clymer. 3/4 of the book is on the old xr600's and 500's, only the last few sections are on the 650l's. I was looking through the book for torque specs and the bolts I need torque specs for:

-cylinder to block w/those to 8mm bolts

-cylinder head to cylinder w/those 2 10mm bolts

-valve cover

I think thats everything, the book does not clearly explane what bolts are what. Maybe its just me but if you could post all the torque specs that would be awesome!!! Just shipped out the cylinder to thumper racing inTX so I'll post back when I hear from them. Thanks again for everyones' efforts!!!

Zack

-cylinder to block w/those to 8mm bolts

-cylinder head to cylinder w/those 2 10mm bolts

-valve cover

I am unclear on exactly which bolts you are talking about, so here are most of them. There are 6 bolts considered cylinder bolts. 2 have 8mm heads and should have standard torque of 16 lbs. 4 bolts with 12 mm heads, 2 long and 2 short have a torque value of 36 lbs. The threads should have oil applied then torque down with torque sequence for a 4 bolt application. This info is from the service manual. I don't know where you get 8 mm bolts from (maybe the diameter of the threads?).Its a good idea to torque in sequence to 10, 20, 30 and finally 36 lbs just to be safe.

The head to cylinder has 6 bolts and 6 washers. The torque value for those is 26 lbs. Are these what you are talking about?

The valve cover 10mm head bolts (2) should be torqued to 17 lbs. The others have a head size of 8mm and have to many different torque values to list. They range between 7 and 13 lbs. Try see if you could go to your local service department and make a copy of this page, its the cylinder head cover removal/installation page. Like I said all the bolts almost require specific torque, all 11. Just be careful, if you don't torque them properly you'll end up with a oil leak. If you want to purchase this manual on line I'll post the web site that everyone including dealers order it from. It takes about 1 1/2 weeks to receive, and costs I believe between $50 and $60. It's a life and headache saver. This is where I purchased mine. Just be sure to get the 1993 - 2005 honda service manual. Thats the one all service departments use, the bike is virually unchanged except for color. Also this manual covers everything you could ever want to know about your bike.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=&Mfg=AHC&Make=AHC&Model=DSPT&Year=2004&Category=1&Keyword=&Module=&mscsid=V6BR7TRBLQVH8PP8NGAFKLF82N220KD1

Thanks for you time dabeyta3!! Those were most of the the numbers I wasnt sure about, thats one less thing I have to worry about. Here's a pic of the 2 side bolts that needed a 10mm wrench to remove, sorry about the mix up.

466060_152_full.jpg

Here's the 2 8mm, well the other is covered by the wire loom but I think you know which ones I mean now

466060_153_full.jpg

Thanks!

Zack

Thanks for you time dabeyta3!! Those were most of the the numbers I wasnt sure about, thats one less thing I have to worry about. Here's a pic of the 2 side bolts that needed a 10mm wrench to remove, sorry about the mix up.

466060_152_full.jpg

Here's the 2 8mm, well the other is covered by the wire loom but I think you know which ones I mean now

466060_153_full.jpg

Thanks!

Zack

The 2 10mm acorn nuts show no specific special torque value. I torqued mine down to the standard 25ft lbs for a 10 mm nut. When no specific torque value is given the service manual says to use stardard torque value.

The other two 8mm bolts also have no special toque value. The 8mm cylinder bolts should have a standard torque of 16ft lbs. I also did this.

Just a idea, but for anything 20ft lbs or under I use a inch pound torque wrench. The reason is because it always seems to fit better in tight areas and I think its more accurate at low torque situations.

Also all torque values I given you are FT LBS.

Hi again, after sorting out the piston missunderstanding I began to re-assamble the engine. Everything was going good until I forgot which way the cam is suppose to go! I cant believe I was that absent minded, so my question is how do you know when the engine is on tdc compression stroke vs tdc on the exhaust stroke? I have both the acess covers off on the left side of the engine so i can rotate the crank and watch when the "T" lines up but I dont know what stroke its on. Can anyone help me figure out which way the cam goes? I know there are only 2 ways and I know the cam chain is timed correctly with the crank b/c the lines are horizontal with the 1 vertical line on the top like in the 1st pic above. Thanks for any help!!!

Zack

I think the only difference is the cam position, and that everything else in the motor is the same. So, just line up the marks and you're set!

(I think...)

Dave

Thanks xr650ldave! Yaa, dont try to do anything like a rebuild with less than 4 hours of sleep... Anywho, I read in the shop manual that it didnt matter as long as it was at TDC compression stoke, so did it and the bike runs great!!! Had the oil line going to the top end off while cranking and finally started it up and about 5 secs later oil came shooting out. The bike has so much more power now, mid range and top end especially! The stage 1 hot cams worked out well, I think I might down the road get the 10.25:1 Wiseco piston but for now its pretty good. I will prob use a 168 main jet when I go to the honda dealer tomorrow but its running great with the 55 pilot and 165 DJ main jet. I just wanna thank everyone for taking the time to help me out with all the questions I had, it is all greatly appreciated!!!

Zack

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