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Kritter

Question to purchasers of my peg fix...

11 posts in this topic

To those that have the front bolt that is silver in color...how is it holding up to weather? Is it a lot better then the rear black oxide bolt? To those who dont have the silver front bolt...PM me if you want one.

If I bought bolts with holes in the heads of the bolts would people safety wire them?

How much would bolts that could be safety wired be worth to you guys? I think they are quite a bit more expensive to buy...and a ton more expensive if I have to do the drilling!

Thanks,

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To those that have the front bolt that is silver in color...how is it holding up to weather? Is it a lot better then the rear black oxide bolt? To those who dont have the silver front bolt...PM me if you want one.

If I bought bolts with holes in the heads of the bolts would people safety wire them?

How much would bolts that could be safety wired be worth to you guys? I think they are quite a bit more expensive to buy...and a ton more expensive if I have to do the drilling!

Thanks,

Only had it a couple months but have been riding in a lot of wet since putting it on. The silver bolt looks good as new, but the black one isn't bad. Just a little light surface rust.

The bolts had locknuts, iirc, and I put locktite blue on them too. The safety wire doesn't do anything for me, but I'm no racer.

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Mine was pretty recent and I got the silver bolt - so I can't comment on the oxide version. Right now I'm conducting a corosion test by leaving my bike in an unwashed state for a day or two - laziness has everything to do with this. I'll look it over in a couple of days. I don't run any safety wire - would this be necessary with locknuts and locktite?

I'll tell you though that jumping waterbars with my 300+lbs sure should test the Gorilla factor. I just kept smiling knowing that I had the AHD peg mount :)

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Safety wires in addition to locktite and lock nuts IS overkill but some people may like it...

just wanted to see if any peeps here were into safety wire method...

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I'll be getting your fix soon enough and though i would appreciate it coming ready for safety wire though i'm used to drilling etc to do it!!!

I live a half a block from the ocean so i can give ya a real good oxidation test once i get the kit!!!

Mike

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To those that have the front bolt that is silver in color...how is it holding up to weather? Is it a lot better then the rear black oxide bolt?
The black bolt discolors very easily, the front one still looks great. no rust or visible corrosion as of yet.
If I bought bolts with holes in the heads of the bolts would people safety wire them?
I would.
How much would bolts that could be safety wired be worth to you guys?
I drilled my original ones, before I got your mod, I didn't drill the ones I got from you, and so far they are still holding tight. :)

Likely, I will drill them over the summer though, as a little peace of mind. :D

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If anybody can lead me to an online store that sells bolts drilled that would be great...

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If anybody can lead me to an online store that sells bolts drilled that would be great...

Hey Kritter,

Go to a Helicopter Company that has Eurocopter AS 350's (A-Stars) in its fleet. Go talk to the Chief of maintenance and show him your bolts. Tell him you want to order close tolerance (CT) bolts that can be "lock wired". He will tell you where to get these. These bolts are not cheap.

Oh yeah.... This is our little secret. :)

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To those that have the front bolt that is silver in color...how is it holding up to weather? Is it a lot better then the rear black oxide bolt? To those who dont have the silver front bolt...PM me if you want one.
You're taking about the XR650R right? Just curious, what's wrong with the R footpeg shim kit sold by SRC? I have the SRC kit and its stayed tight. I weigh 250 lbs and don't want to have the footpeg problem, ever. If you'll explain why your fix is better I'd like to buy one. My XR is a 2003 model.

Thanks,

Steve

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Kritters fix involved drilling out the footpeg bolt holes and using larger bolts. It also has a bracket welded to peg mount that wraps over the top of the frame. The bolt goes through the peg mount and through the frame and through his bracket which clamps over the frame. The larger bolts aren't stressed as much, which means there's less force per unit area. In other words, the load is displaced through a lot more surface area with the larger bolts and the clamp further displaces the load in addition to clamping the peg to the frame.

Take your typical round toothpick which measures ~0.076". It may take 12 Nm of force to break this toothpick while a toothpick that's thicker will not break as easily. Kritter is using thicker bolts and he's further displacing the load and securing the peg with the use of a clamp :)

It's without question the best fix I've seen for this issue.

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