This is a little long but please read and help if you can, clutch installation questi

My 99 WR 400 kicked back while starting it so hard that it broke one of the bolts that holds the kick starter stopper and ratchet guide in place. This is inside the case and the clutch must be removed to gain access to it. I had to drill out the original bolt and tap the hole and install a helicoil kit to repair it. While reinstalling everything I have ran into a problem. After I put the clutch pressure pplate on and tourqed it I checked my clutch lever pull before covering everything back up and it did not have enough pull to release the clutch. A freind who was helping me put it back together, who has 20 years experience with repairing motorcycles, thinks that there should be a small ball bearing between the "push rod #2" and " push rod #1" as seen in the owners manual on page 4-43, items #10 and #6 respectively. Has anyone replaced their clutch or know if this ball bearing is suspposed to be there? I have checked with the dealer but their mechanic was out today and the micro fish shows the same picture as the owners manual. Please help if you can.

------------------

99 WR400 Acerbics Hand Guards, Dunlop 752's, Moose skid plate, Pro Taper bars, stock pipe w/o silencer, throttle stop cut,and frame guards

I just took my clutch appart checked everything in the area including the Counter balencer drive gear which was tight and put the clutch back together with heavy duty springs. I do not remember any small ball bearing between the end of the crossover shaft and push rod #1.

I have seen a ball bearing used in other clutch applications but do not believe Yamaha is using one.

Did you make sure the clutch basket seated all the way into the cavity engaging all three gears which engage the basket? If the clutch basket is not seated all the way in it would act as you describe? And of course you put the crossover rod in the correct way with the big end going into the motor and the small end into push rod #1. And all of the components which make up push rod #1 are installed??

As a final thought the pressure plate and the inner clutch hub are indexed and must be installed as shown on page 4-48 of the manual with the arrow on the pressure plate pointing towards the dot on the inner hub OR the clutch will not work and act as you describe!!

Clark

[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 11-18-2000).]

yes I am sure about the push rod position and I am going to take it back apart to check the basket. I have decided that there was no ball bearing but needed to hear it from someone else. Do you think that after the oil is in that it would make much difference with the oil film beteween every clecth plate. Thanks for responding.

------------------

99 WR400 Acerbics Hand Guards, Dunlop 752's, Moose skid plate, Pro Taper bars, stock pipe w/o silencer, throttle stop cut,and frame guards

Specman

Its a good idea to pre-soak the fiber plates in a plastic bag with some engine oil and then install them. It makes the clutch easier to brake lose when you first fire up the engine and engage the cltuch.

Do not forget to check the pressure plate to inner hub alignment per page 4-48 of the manual (ie arrow on pressure plate lined up with dot on inner hub) or it will not work.

Clark

[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 11-19-2000).]

When I installed the Hinson basket in my bike, I had ordered that little bearing assembly because the manual said to install a new one. As you remove the clutch components and get down to removing the #1 push rod(the small one), that bearing, along with a thrust washer and C clip all come out together as a single unit. The C clip holds the thrust washer and bearing onto the rod.I could see no reason to replace this bearing since it was in pristine condition. Apparently, the writers of the manual are talking about a complete clutch overhaul.

Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. I finally figured out what I was doing wrong and thought it might help others to point it out. There is on friction plate that is slightly different than the others, it's inside diamater is a little bit bigger so that it will slip over the recessed area of the pressure plate. The owners manual makes reference to this on page 4-47 showing one disc as #3 and even gives the measurements of the friction plates but doesnt clarify that it is the last one to be installed. Anyway this was my problem and I thought someone else may benifit from my mistake.

------------------

99 WR400 Acerbics Hand Guards, Dunlop 752's, Moose skid plate, Pro Taper bars, stock pipe w/o silencer, throttle stop cut,and frame guards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now