FYI. Rear sprocket replacement.

After getting my sprocket removed, I realized that I didn't have the correct tool to get the torque wrench on the nut. After the fact, I learned there is a special wrench you attach to your wrench to get the proper angle. The spokes and disk make it impossible to get a straight shot with torque wrench. FYI.

I ended up doing it with red loctite and box wrench. I hope I got them tight enough!

Just check them frequently at first. No worries.

You probably got them tighter than you would've with the torque wrench. The honda torque specs are for "new' fastners and don't account for stretch or warpage of any kind. The only time I find the torque settings to be nice are for case bolts. Valve, clutch, stator, oilfilter covers etc....

Yeah, I actually broke one bolt. I leaned on them all pretty hard and was hoping over tight is better then under tight?

As long as you haven't over stressed the studs/ bolts you should be fine.

But that is one of the reasons you use a torque wrench.

Red Loctite is gross overkill. When you want to change your sprocket you may have to heat the bolts to about 350 degrees to get them to break loose.

Use BLUE Loctite on motorcycle-sized fasteners.

IMO you should always use a torque wrench..Especially around aluminum components............. :)

I used green loctite on mine... My original rear sprocket on the 650L was on there from the factory for 8 years. 40,000+ miles, an no measurable wear.

I replaced it with an Ironman Sprocket, because I worked there for 9 months. I have well over 10,000 miles on the Ironman and have not yet had the bolts loosen, or the sprocket show any signs of wear.. I may never have to replace that sprocket. In the event I do, I'll be re-installing the original.

This will solve your problem.

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