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hill5150

Whats the deal with Mobil redcap?

16 posts in this topic

Is it gone, relabeled, or another name? :D I used it I'm out, loved it, and need a good replacement, the Honda shop will be closed before I get home, I need a non energy conserving comparable or Redcap if it is another name with moly............. :):)

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Red cap is no more. They now have reformulated oil with SuperSyn. I use the gold cap in my cars and MX-4 motorcycle oil in my CBR. Haven't made up my mind yet for the dirtbike, as it is still brand new. A guy on my VFR site tests oil for a living and I trust him (Scootr). Go to this site and do a search on Mobil 1. VFRD

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Redbadged to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50. Has more zinc/phos than before and has a little more moly.

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I'm using the 15w50 M1EP, and so far it seems great. No clutch slippage.

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I run the MOBIL Delvac 1300 Super (whew! long enough name, or what?) .. 15w/40 diesel motor oil, in the black gallon jugs (synthetic version is in the silver jug) ... I read a coupla oil tests that claimed the diesel versions contain much more of the necessary load and shear additives .. ( Iforgettium, and Whatchmacallitium ) , yeah, my memory aint fer squat ... and, in all my vehicles I run about a 20% blend of LUCAS Oil Additive ... my engines do pretty well on it, got over 700,000 outta my last diesel, virtually no oil usage, was going strong for 1,000,000, but a rod bolt came loose inside, darn, I HATE it when that happens ... :)

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I'm using the 15w50 M1EP, and so far it seems great. No clutch slippage.

How many miles, or oil changes have you had since switching to EP with your XRL?

I'm getting ready to change out the red cap in mine and I'm wondering if M1EP is the way to go now. :)

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How many miles, or oil changes have you had since switching to EP with your XRL?

I'm getting ready to change out the red cap in mine and I'm wondering if M1EP is the way to go now. :)

I just put it in a couple weeks ago. Maybe 800 miles on it so far. I commute on my bike close to 300 miles a week.

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I can't see why anyone wouldn't want to use the EP 15w50 if they used red cap and liked it. It has more of the good stuff and still under 90ppm moly which is less moly than Mobil 1 puts intheir MX4T and VTWIN oil. I know when my red cap is out I'm using it. People I know who I ride with have already switched.

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thanks for that link to the MOBIL oil analysis ... I've always used the diesel Delvac 1300, but I see in the list the Mobil 1 V-Twin version has a much higher zinc/phosphorous content, which is supposedly what we want for our bikes ... I'm switching ...

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unfortunately, I see the V-Twin version also has a much higher Moly content, which is not good, ... I've never experienced clutch-slip with moly additives before, but I don't ride too aggressively, clutch-wise ... I only clutch when shifting, ... I'm not experienced enough offroad to feather the clutch like most good riders, maybe that's why I don't get the slippage symptoms ??? dunno

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Moly is not the evil that some people preach... especially at these (relatively) low levels.

When you put in a new cam or change your shims, that BelRay assembly lube adds far more moly to your oil than V-Twin. There are other additives that work along with moly to cause clutch slippage in EC oils.

One of our friends in Canada could not get Rotella synth, so he got 0w-40. It contained no more moly than 5w40, but it caused severe slippage. Shell responded that the 0w oils are not good for wet clutch.

V-Twin and MX4T are identical except for their weight. These oils are specifically indicated by Mobil for wet-clutch applications and meet JASO MA.

Many other oils would also meet MA, but have simply not been submitted for testing.

Their moly content on older tests came in at 79. Current tests put them at 91.

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V-Twin and MX4T are identical except for their weight.

Not exactly true from what I heard (not to argue, just to share). The MX4 uses viscosity modifiers that the V-twin doesn't. I am no expert, but have a friend that is, and this is his take for street bikes (don't know how this will apply to dirtbikes), use V-twin in hot weather, and MX4 in colder weather. He sees the least amount of wear in an engine with the V-twin oil and MX4 second. By the way, the V-twin Mobil 1 is 20w-50. Big bucks though. For what it's worth, the new Mobil 1 oils with supersync have made my transmission butter smooth in my street ride.

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Not exactly true from what I heard (not to argue, just to share). The MX4 uses viscosity modifiers that the V-twin doesn't.

Oh of course... I was talking about the basic additives package. Vis modifiers fall under weight :)

I would probably run 20w50 on an air-cooled street bike as well. They do encounter a lot more idling and moderate RPM running than dirt bikes. I always go for the lightest oil that fits my temperature range, and always synthetics... 5w40 Rotella-T for my WR and 5w30 Mobil-1 for my Tundra.

I would stick to 5w40 or MX4T for a water cooled street bike with a fan.

112k on the '03 Tundra changing every 7500 and it doesn't burn a drop of oil... and now I'm running the M1-EP and pushing the intervals to 10k... just looked at the dipstick yesterday and it still looks like honey at 8k.

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