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NewBlue

Engine Ice isn't so cool in my wr

19 posts in this topic

I decided to give Engine Ice a try despite the warnings of NCMount. and Indy. I never boiled the bike over with the stock E/G in the radiators. I put engine ice in it and have boiled it over three or four times. I added some water wetter to it, and it still boiled over, just less often. Yesterday I flushed the engine ice out and put in the premixed prestone stuff that they claim works with any color anti-freeze and has alum. protectant in it. I added a few ounces of water wetter to it as well. I'll report back with my findings. When in doubt, it pays to listen to mountain men.

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I've been experimenting with this too. Switched from 100% Silkolene Pro Cool to just straight distilled water with the water wetter (about 3-4 capfuls). I switched to the YZ rear fender and yanked the overflow jug to save some weight so I'm looking for the lowest of temps. Haven't got any real seat time because of all the rain but it seems to run cooler at idle - we'll see.

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I've been experimenting with this too. Switched from 100% Silkolene Pro Cool to just straight distilled water with the water wetter (about 3-4 capfuls). I switched to the YZ rear fender and yanked the overflow jug to save some weight so I'm looking for the lowest of temps. Haven't got any real seat time because of all the rain but it seems to run cooler at idle - we'll see.

i tried about everything but pure water w/wetter and nothing stayed down until EVANS NPG-R have not lost a drop and i've been on some seriously slow single track lately. it works very well in combo w/two2cool oil additive my bike has never been so happy :naughty:

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So, are you guys using Engine Ice in a 2005 Wr450??

I just drained my rad and added Engine Ice on this bike. I haven't ridden it yet but I was hoping it would keep the engine cooler and get more HP.

Anybody had bad experiences with this bike and coolant. It comes premixed so I could see someone screwing up and diluting with water :naughty:

But besides that, what would be a scientific reason it wouldn't work? Its Propolene Glycol (like all non-toxic coolants are) :naughty:

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Dosn't engine ice recoment flushing the radiators out with something. Vinegar comes to mind. Something to get the old coolant completely outta the system. I remember a post sometime back about this. Saying you had to totally clean the cooling system before putting the engine ice in cause it is so diff from regualr cooland and dosn't mix with others.

Do a search for engineicedave maybe you will find it.

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found it.

]**Copied from our website and we've found it works very well**

For any coolant and anytime you are changing coolant, we recommend a simple solution of distilled water and white distilled vinegar, both available at your local grocery store.

1. Mix the water/vinegar at 50/50

2. Fill system with the solution

3. Run engine until warm

4. Let cool

5. Drain

6. Run clear water through to rinse out vinegar.

7. Fill with coolant of choice.

This is the same as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to clean out and contaminants and residual coolants, yet it won’t harm your seals and gaskets.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=905539#post905539

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I just bought Engine Ice for my 03 WR 450. I have had no problems with the stock so far and I ride nasty eastern single track. I have 1500 miles and 2 years on the stock coolant and feel I need to change it. Should I go stay with stock coolant? I don't want to get stuck 30 miles out in a swamp and have a boil over. I agree you should flush the system. What is the best product to use? I only want to do this once. I trust the ThumperTalk Brain Trust..:naughty:

RNS

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NPG-R from evans ,its waterless ethylene glycol. it will NOT boil out unless something is wrong(i'm guessin' like if your water pump quit or something) and if it does boil (400 deg F @ 7 psi) you had better stop and examine the sitiation. zip-ty sells the same stuff in a different package and charges twice what evans gets. its heat transfer is a little less than 50/50 but where it shines is it eliminates molecular boiling in the cylinder jacket. therefore doing a better job of of keeping things cool. you must use a water flush thats $18/gal and the NPG-R is $24/gal enough to do it twice. they reccomend once a year. don't worry about the horror story of if you get stranded you can't mix it with water. i spoke with the evans engineers before i bought it and that is more of a disclaimer for warranty(the water contaminates it) it would just be the regular impurities in the water that would cause it to have to be drained out asap. then you'd have to do the flush over again. which is harder to do on larger vehicles that the warning is aimed at anyhow. if you race or just want the best protection you can get,evans is the only way to go :naughty:

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NC,

Did you order straight from evans website. I'm showing $27.75/gallon npg-r and $16.50/gallon for the prep stuff. Sound about right?

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ya it came straight from them,it was a couple months ago.i guess its the alzheimers kickin' in :naughty: close enough for govt. work :naughty:

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I disagree with the ever putting anything acidic in a cooling system, especially one with aluminum in it. Vinegar is just the common name for acetic acid. It is used to clean coffee makers out because it reacts with calcium carbonate(which is basic) that is built up in the coffee maker. If you have demineralize or distilled water, there should be no calcium carbonate build up inside of the cooling system. I do think that I will try the aluminum heat reflectice tape on the radiator. Has anyone wrapped their header pipe with ceramic tape? I have heard different things about the ceramic tape, but may just give it a go and see what happens.

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Recently went out with my 2000 WR400 and 2004 WR450. Rode a lot of first gear rocky terrain north of Phoenix, 70 degree day. The 450 boiled over constantly and seemed to boil quite quickly too. My buddy was riding my 400 and it took awhile and it only boiled a little.

The 400 I have had since new and added a Boyesen water pump kit after about the first year, it rarely ever boiled over after that in the tight and nasty first gear stuff.

Time to get a water pump kit for the 450.

Heat tape on the rad near the header, good coolant and a Boyesen water pump kit all add up to (hopefully) horse power retention.

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the boyesen pump was one of the first things i did (in fact i had the first one when it was still in r&d) it worked well and definately smoothed out the spikes i was getting between stop & go. can't say it was "knock your socks off" but definately a step in the right direction :naughty:

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the boyesen pump was one of the first things i did (in fact i had the first one when it was still in r&d) it worked well and definately smoothed out the spikes i was getting between stop & go. can't say it was "knock your socks off" but definately a step in the right direction :naughty:

NC, you definitely deserve a hat .......or two!!

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ya i forgot to ask when i was on the phone, maybe they'll see this and PM me (hint,hint) guess the only thing left for me would be the IMS radiators and i'd be cool as a cucumber :D anyone have any experience with them? they look like a quality product maybe built a little heavier than stock. my stockers have seen a few horrific crashes :naughty: i kinda wonder about they're integrity :naughty:

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do you know if they make the water pump for a yz 250 f...i ride alot in the woods and its not hot yet..but it will be soon. And i hear alot about these things boiling over.. :naughty:

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