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Stripped seat bolts....................


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Not the best option but an option none-the-less - how about getting longer slightly narrower bolts installing them through the threaded hole and use lockwashers/washers and nuts on the inboard ends. I can't remember if the current threaded hole goes all the way through to the fenderwell area or not though???

Paul in AZ

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Never had this problem. Do you have a habit of tightening these fasteners as tight as you can? With T-handle wrenches, it's easy over torque these rather small fasteners. If you use blue Loctite, you only need snug them down and the Loctite will still hold pretty well even after you have removed and reinstalled these fasteners a couple of times. Just Loctite them again about every two or three removals. Works for me. ?

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Dan,

I had the same problem.

1) I don't know if you used Loctite. But, do NOT use Loctite on frequently removed fasteners. This caused my threads to strip out.

2) I cut of the nuts welded to the subframe and welded on new nuts. I used an oxy/acetylene welder. If you don't have one a professional could probably do it for you.

3) Get slightly longer bolts from a hardware store. On my WR the stock bolts did not quite engage all of the threads on the nut.

4) Always torque to spec.

Eric in WA

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I would go with the heli-coil option. I stripped out the threads on my thumper bar mounts so I ttok them to a machinest buddy of mine and he heli-coiled them for me and now they are way stronger than the aluminum threads that were cut.

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Darin from Missouri - 1999 WR 400F

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