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Math

Head inspection

15 posts in this topic

I opened the head of my WR this winter to check the valves ... I put some contact kleen (contact cleaner from Kleen Flow) over the valves to see if they were sealing right (learnt that trick in Dirt Rider Nov 04) . Nothing goes through. Now I suppose I don't need to unmount the valves do I? I suppose I only have to check if the space between the cam and each valve cap is OK.

Anything else I can check easily before I close it up this week end?

Also, I remarked that the admission valves are black (3) while the exhaust ones (2) are kind of brown/ orange... why that for?

Thank you.

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Well, sealing is good. But it might be a good idea to toss in a set of valve steam seals. One can easily make a valve spring compressor with an old deep socket. Make sure there is no galling in the cam journals, lobes and followers. If all checks OK, set clearance. As for the intake vs exhaust color, the black and brown combo you have is perfect. The intake valves run much cooler than the exhaust. If your interested in the trick to remove valves and re-install them on these, let me know. I can post a link to a picture of my home made compressor and the drill to remove them. Real easy to do if the head is already off.

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I can post a link to a picture of my home made compressor and the drill to remove them. Real easy to do if the head is already off.

I'd like to see it :cry:

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Toy, I'd like to see your technique... I thought about buying the tool from Yam but since they still seam to close thight... I was not motivated to unmount them. On the other hand, if you have a special way to do it, I might give it a try.

Many thanks for your input. :cry:

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I'd like to see it :cry:

OK, but you guys will be amazed at how simple it is. See the "toyota_mdt_tech"® valve spring compressor below. Below the picture will be operating instructions. Note, "Patent Pending" :cry:http://home.ix.netcom.com/~ssauer40/compressor.jpg

With the head off the bike, take a shop rag and bunch it up into a ball and fill the combustion chamber area with the rag. So now the head in on top of the work bench, rag is filling the cylinders. The rag shoulds be big enough to allow the head to be about an inch or so off the top of the bench surface. Basically this is to hold the valves closed without damaging them while you compress the spring. Thats it! The compressor tool shown was used for a Toyota job I did at home, it was a 13/16. I'm sure the Yammies will be much smaller. Dont destroy a good socket. The cut out is basically used to pull the keepers out (a magnetic tipped stick from the tools guys works perfect) and when you release it, pull out the keepers with the magnet. Now for reinstalling, set the keepers inside the retainer, compress the retainer down while holding your pointing finger over the keepers and kinda pushing down. As soon as its compressed enough, the keepers will fall into place, release it. When all the valves are done, take the valves and tap on the stem tips with a drift to settle them in place, dont alow the valves to hit anything when doing this. Settling the valves will ease adjustment. If this isnt followed, you'll find all your clearances will be too tight after the engine rolls over a couple of times. You can use a nut driver handle in the socket, or just push on the socket with a short extension. Whatever works best for you :cry:

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I'm going to bed now but will take the time to watch this tomorrow. :cry:

Why is it important not to touch/wash the valves surface when I clean the surface of the head that comes in contact with the cylinder head gasket? They wrote that in dirt rider and I don't understand why :cry:

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I'm going to bed now but will take the time to watch this tomorrow. :devil:

Why is it important not to touch/wash the valves surface when I clean the surface of the head that comes in contact with the cylinder head gasket? They wrote that in dirt rider and I don't understand why :cry:

:cry::cry::cry:

I suppose reading the whole aritcle or sentence, it may make some more sense. But as it stands now, I dont understand what they are talking about. :cry:

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I'm going to bed now but will take the time to watch this tomorrow. :cry:

Math, its not a video, I onyl have 56K dialup. :cry:

Its just a picture. But a picture is worth a thousand words, right. :cry::cry:

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Alright... thanks for the pic.

Here is the sentence in dirt rider:" We cleaned the gasket surface with a scotch brite pad but made sure not to touch the surface of the valves."

I asked my local KTM dealer who is quite a motorcycle and mechanic maniac and he does not undestand either.... he says he always removes all carbon traces with a gentle rotative brush...

I think that is what I'm gonna do.

Thanks for your help

Math

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Math, makes sense, they dont want you to reduce the "margin" on the valves. This will lead to a burnt valve real quick like!

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Alright... thanks for the pic.

Here is the sentence in dirt rider:" We cleaned the gasket surface with a scotch brite pad but made sure not to touch the surface of the valves.

OK, makes sense. Small valves have very little margin to begin with. Margin is the area between the valve top to the beginning of the sealing anlge. Margin is real critical on exhaust valves. If this area is hit with a scotch brite, the margin is reduced quickly to the minimum and will burn out quickly. Bikes with large combustion chambers usually have enough room where the valves arent in the way, but at 12.5:1, its tight!

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The link to the pic doesn't work.

OK, try it now. If you'd pasted the URL, it would of worked. The link deal added some extra letters in it. Clicking on it now will do the trick!

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I removed the carbon with a gentle steel whirl and it did not even affect the brown finish on the valves... don't think I grinded them enough to affect the margins...

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