Red Cap Alternatives? What now? Shell, Castrol?

There's always M1 Truck & SUV, also known as Delvac.

5w-40, and no moly.

$4.81/qt at Wally World

Yamaha does not recommend ANY 30 weight oil. Check your manual. It's way too light for an engine with rolling element bearings.

I didn't say that I used 30 weight. BTW: My manual does have a recommended temp range for 10w-30. -10 to 35 C.

I was just in my local Napa Clearing the shelves of all the Red Cap, and I noticed that Napa brand has a full synthetic 15-50 API SL, any one try it before or have any thoughts. I think it goes for $3.99 per Q.

Is this Mobil 1 MX4T available in gallon jugs anywhere? Or can you even buy it in quarts at Wally World?

Is this Mobil 1 MX4T available in gallon jugs anywhere? Or can you even buy it in quarts at Wally World?

Quarts only... MX4T and V-Twin are both $6.99 at WM.

WAs at Walmart today and noticed on the shelves they had the new Mobil 1 Extended Life 15w50 in the gallon container and quart size. While mobil is charging over $5.00 a quart for this stuff I wonder if is really that much different. They say more supersyn additives but how much? Enough to cause clutch problems?

So is there something wrong with the Maxima Ultra-4 that is made for 4-strokes? I have been using the Ultra-4 and my bike has had no problems at all. What is the big deal about the Mobil 1?

Mobil 1 is cheap as hell for a synthetic oil compared to MC specific

Look on the bright side now you can move up to amsoil :cry: and it has a RED cap on the bottle too :cry:

Castrol Act>Evo 10-40 Synth Works great

I put a post up in the "General" info section. I found an oil analysis of Mobil1 Extended Performance 10w30 and when I compared the numbers there weren't that many changes. See my other post for the specifics on the numbers. Moly went up a tad and there were increases in Zinc,Phos, and Boron. I'm assuming the same changes or at least something close happened to the 15w50. After I finish off the gallon of red cap I bought, I'll be using the EP 15w50. Hopefully someone will post an analysis of that in the near future.

I was in my local Walmart yesterday and they have both the red cap and the EP side by side on the shelf with shelf tags on both. The red cap went back to $19 a jug and the EP was $23 something. There was no indication they were getting rid og the red cap anytime soon.

I went ahead and got 2 more jugs of it though because they had so much in stock. I should be good for the next year or so, and by then I will know for sure how good the EP is for the bikes.

I think I may switch to the Rotella synthetic 5w40 myself in my 650R. Really wanted a 50wt in that engine though.

5w40 is read "5 weight 40"

The oil is 5w

Viscosity attributes are of a 40 weight oil, but the oil itself is not 40 weight. Its 5.

If you were to buy straight 40 weight oil, and buy your 5w40, and try to pour them out in 10F weather, which do you think would empty quicker?

"5w40 is read "5 weight 40"

The oil is 5w

Viscosity attributes are of a 40 weight oil, but the oil itself is not 40 weight. Its 5.

If you were to buy straight 40 weight oil, and buy your 5w40, and try to pour them out in 10F weather, which do you think would empty quicker?"

Your killing me. I am quite aware that the oil is a 5wt when cold and 40wt at operating temp through the use of viscosity index improvers. What I am saying is that I want the protection of a 50wt oil in my bike which is what 15w50 is at operating temperature.

will it ever end...

5w40 is read "5 weight 40"

The oil is 5w

Viscosity attributes are of a 40 weight oil, but the oil itself is not 40 weight. Its 5.

If you were to buy straight 40 weight oil, and buy your 5w40, and try to pour them out in 10F weather, which do you think would empty quicker?

The "W" in 5W-40 stands for winter, not weight.

I would agree with your statement that 5W-40 is a 5 weight oil if we were talking about mineral oils since they generally start with the thinner base stock and add viscosity improvers (VI) to make it perform like a thicker oil when hot. But with synthetics, unlike mineral oils, the base stock is at or near the hot temp viscosity rating, in this case 40. The reason being that synthetics don't get nearly as thick when cold as compared to mineral oils and oil manufacturers can start with a thicker base stock that needs few if any VIs to achieve the wide viscosity range from cold to hot.

The "W" in 5W-40 stands for winter, not weight.

I would agree with your statement that 5W-40 is a 5 weight oil if we were talking about mineral oils since they generally start with the thinner base stock and add viscosity improvers (VI) to make it perform like a thicker oil when hot. But with synthetics, unlike mineral oils, the base stock is at or near the hot temp viscosity rating, in this case 40. The reason being that synthetics don't get nearly as thick when cold as compared to mineral oils and oil manufacturers can start with a thicker base stock that needs few if any VIs to achieve the wide viscosity range from cold to hot.

You are nearly correct. The "w" stands for winter. It's a very old bit of terminology going back to the earliest multigrade oils, referring to the first number as a statement of the oils behavior in "winter", or low temperature conditions. As it is now, the first number is the viscosity at 40 degrees Celsius, I believe, and the second is the viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius.

However, it is inaccurate to say that a 5w-40, 10w-40, or whatever is not a 40. It is a 40, at least it is at 100 degrees C (212 F). Mineral multigrades do start with light base stocks with VI additives mixed in. The newer synthetic base oils don't behave the same way relative to temperature, and they need less VI's, or in some cases, none at all, but even so, most of them are still correctly thought of as a light oil that resists thinning with heat. But in spite of that, there is no difference in viscosity at 100 degrees between a 5w-40 and a straight dino 40 when both oils are fresh.

Gold cap:

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 meets the following industry approvals:

ACEA A3, B3/B4

API SL

It also meets the requirements for diesel powered vehicles where an API CF or CD oil is recommended.

All Mobil 1 Extended Performance viscosity grades have been tested to be fully compatible with engine seals and conventional oils. They do not require a special oil filter.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 37 percent more cleaning agents, and 36 percent more anti-wear additives than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Advanced SuperSyn System helps keep engines running like new and helps extend engine life by reducing wear and oil breakdown. Please follow the recommendations in your owner's manual while your car is under warranty.

You guys are WAY too anal about the oil thing. Been riding my 01 426 every weekend (about two tank fulls a weekend) for the past 4 years. Use the cheap(not the R) Yamalube. Change the oil MAYBE every three months(12 rides/24 tank fulls of gas). And have not had a single problem with my bike. My brother had an 00 426 then an 03 450F and didn't even change oil this frequently. I think you people who change the oil every other ride or so are wasteing $$$.

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