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Fryboy

GYTR Baffle owners HELP!!!!!

15 posts in this topic

I have the new baffle for my WR426. The bolt stripped out and I need to get it fixed asap.

First thought is to buy a tap to the next size up, and hope the bolt fits through the sleeve (hope you know what I mean) of my can.

Second thought is to use a heli coil type deal or thread surt sp?

Who wants to help me decide how to fix it? :cry:

Thanks,

Fryboy

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You may be surprised at how well just running a tap of the correct size in it to clean up the old threads would work. I would try that first, then you can always drill the sleeve a little larger to fit then new bolt also. Hope this helps.

Josh

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Fryboy,

I just had mine repaired at my friendly local Yamaha dealer. Got it back yesterday. Same issue. The bolt got a little loose and wallowed out the threads on the silencer. I tried running a tap through the threads and using a new bolt, but the damage had been done. Yamaha shop put a helicoil in it and it is as good a new now. I drilled the head of the bolt and I will safety wire the bolt to the muffler by going through the bolt and looping around the muffler. Should never have a problem again. Another repair alternative is to drill and tap a new hole----- helicoil seemed easier and no one will now that you failed to perform proper maintence on your motorcycle :cry: .

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Maybe you could drill out the nut on the part and jb weld a nut on top of it. They when you install the bolt, the new nut will be retained. Just a thought for a cheap fix.

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I tried to re-tap mine, but it wore out too. I just put a longer, thinner bolt in and put a nylon lined nut on the inside. It has worked for months now with no problems. :cry:

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The GYT tip with the stock bolt and threads will have you stopping a lot to pick it up. Stock threads are worthless and just cleaning them up is a lost cause. Helicoil the hole it will be much stronger and use a new bolt and lock washer. Drill a hole in the bolt head and safety wire the the bolt in place. If you need to ride fast put the bolt back in and use a hose clamp to go around the exhaust pipe and bolt to hold it in. The hose clamp fix has worked for me several times when the POS GYT tip falls out. If you do safety wire check the bolt often as it will be rattled loose and need tightening.

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Great tips guys!!! Glad I didn't go and waste all the money on taps and crap. I don't want this costing more than the 30 bucks the baffle did. I do need a quick fix and think the helicoil will work out. I may even try that great Clamp trick suggested :cry: Where is a good place to get metric helicoils?

I thought about locktite for about a minute. I prefer to have this baffle removeable. Exhaust plugs don't fit in it for washing purposes.

thanks for all your suggestions,

Fryboy

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I thought about locktite for about a minute. I prefer to have this baffle removeable. Exhaust plugs don't fit in it for washing purposes.

LockTite is still removeable. You just have to break it loose in order to get the bolt out, rather than just relying on friction to hold the bolt in. The amount of force needed to break the bolt loose is directly dependent on how much LocTite you use...and WHICH loctite you use. I think the blue is tougher, but I cant remember for sure.

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Not to be a jag off or anything, but I would just throw that thing in the woods and get a different exhaust. (a YZ exhaust is peanuts) the GYT-R baffle is a pile. It stiffles the bike way too much still. I had one on my 426 and then my 450. It gives the bike a slight bit more power over the original turd that came in the can.

Get it fixed and sell the whole exhaust. My $.02. You can thank me later when your bike runs right.

:cry:

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Thanks for the tip Digital_Soldier. That is my plan but I won't have my new E2 before this Monday and I gotsta ride !!!!!

Fryboy

Not to be a jag off or anything, but I would just throw that thing in the woods and get a different exhaust. (a YZ exhaust is peanuts) the GYT-R baffle is a pile. It stiffles the bike way too much still. I had one on my 426 and then my 450. It gives the bike a slight bit more power over the original turd that came in the can.

Get it fixed and sell the whole exhaust. My $.02. You can thank me later when your bike runs right.

:cry:

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Actually, I believe that the blue is weaker. The Red LockTite requires heat to get loose. At least this is what I have always been told. I use the blue everywhere and it works fine.

Josh

LockTite is still removeable. You just have to break it loose in order to get the bolt out, rather than just relying on friction to hold the bolt in. The amount of force needed to break the bolt loose is directly dependent on how much LocTite you use...and WHICH loctite you use. I think the blue is tougher, but I cant remember for sure.

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Actually, I believe that the blue is weaker. The Red LockTite requires heat to get loose. At least this is what I have always been told. I use the blue everywhere and it works fine.

Josh

Recently, Lock-Tite switched colors on thier packaging. The Blue used to come in a red tube and the Red was in a blue tube. ????

Now the "blue" product is in, go figure, a blue tube and the red ("permanent") in a red tube. BTW, either one will break down with direct heat; IE: pencil torch, etc.

Also, Lock-Tite is your friend, but be judicious. K

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