Front brake line swap out, CR style-help

I am replacing my stock front brake line with a galfer SS front line (CR routed). I would like it if you guys could help me with instructions for clamping the line to the fork guard and bleeding the brake properly when installed. Thanks :cry:

Admittedly I'm partial to this product because I make it and sell them...

http://www.hevanet.com/bertg/4sale.htm

If interested you can PM me for the TT deal.

Dr.D makes a nice little brake line mount for this swap.

What about bleeding the brakes? Is this hard to do?

Get a brake bleeder from Sears or do it the old fashioned way. Pump, release pressure, pump, release pressure, pump, release pressure. Get the picture? Need to make sure you keep the reservoir filled the whole time.

Theres got to be a sexier piece of metal instead of that strapping.

If the line & clamp are installed correctly there is no need for The plumbers strap/zip-ty. The only movement of the brake line when the forks compress will be above the point where it is clamped to the fork guard, the section of the line between clamp on the guard & the caliper will remain static through the fork's travel.

This set-up looks like a junior high school D- student shop project. I have heard of being resourceful but come-on. Plummer's tape as a mount for the brake line? I've never seen that type of farmer brown machanics in the State of Idaho! :cry::cry::cry:

I use OldBlues clamp. It works well. Looks good to!!!

I've got the Fastline brake line as well and noticed this weekend that the actual braided line inside the hard plastic (top of clamp) and clear (bottom of clamp) hose actually moved.

Not sure if my clamp isn't tight enough or what but it definitely moved. This had the effect of giving more slack underneath the clamp and the line almost hitting the spokes.

I thought something else happend but then noticed that the radius of the bend in the line going over the numberplate was very tight. I pulled up on the line itself and it slid up and everything was normal again.

To keep it in place, I peeled back the heat shrink at the top of the line (at the top of the stiff black plastic 'stiffener' tube) and put a small piece of safety wire around the braided line. Then I tucked the end down and slide the heat shrink back down around it all so it is hidden.

I also tightened my clamp up!

Anyway, this gives a little extra insurance and won't let the line slide around in the protective tubing.

Probably doesn't make a whole hell of a lot of sense, now that I go back and read it but if it has happened to you you'll know what I'm talking about.

Bleeding the brake line --

Speaking from experience, I sincerely recommend using a squeeze bottle full of brake fluid to fill the brake line from the bottom. This method is very similar to filling the lower end of an outboard motor with gear oil. This method is much faster and produces almost no air bubbles.

Bleeding the brake line --

Speaking from experience, I sincerely recommend using a squeeze bottle full of brake fluid to fill the brake line from the bottom. This method is very similar to filling the lower end of an outboard motor with gear oil. This method is much faster and produces almost no air bubbles.

I fill the lower unit on my Merc. 250 optimax using this method. Great advice, I can relate and will use this method to bleed the brake line. :cry:

For bleeding, get some rubber tubing and a big syringe (farm supply store). Run about 12-18 inches of rubber hose from the bleeder to the syringe. Fill the MC, crack the bleeder, and suck the air out. It works, but takes a little while. I also used the oldblue clamp and it worked perfect.

What he said!

Ordered a DrD kit last Thursday. Should be here sometime this week. I'll take some pics.

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