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rebolc

Oil Changes

20 posts in this topic

What's up with all the oil changing? I am all for aggressive maintenance but is it really necessary to change it every ride or every two rides? Anybody know what the manufacturers reccomend?

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Gives me an excuse to wrench on the bike in the garage. It's either that or do the dishes. Ha Ha.

I do every 3-4 rides as I only go 20 miles or so most times.

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Every 500-kms In The Book I Don't Know What That Is In Miles,from What I Understand "dry Sump" Run Hotter Then "wet Sump" Therefore More Oil Changes,and Don't Use Cheap Oil I.e-friction Modified As This Will Stuff Your Clutch.

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Every 500-kms In The Book I Don't Know What That Is In Miles,from What I Understand "dry Sump" Run Hotter Then "wet Sump" Therefore More Oil Changes,and Don't Use Cheap Oil I.e-friction Modified As This Will Stuff Your Clutch.

310 miles

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I've been changing my oil & filter every 300m.

was thinking of changing oil every 200 and filter every 400 dont know what would be better I just know I would rather change my oil more and maby my valve train will last longer.

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I change the oil and ,I clean my reusable oil filter after every three rides here in Idaho in the boise foothills and the Owyhee desert you can really get those bikes reved out, and if you are riding pretty hard why not change the oil a lot and at the same time check your bike over ...better safe then sorry might catch a problem before it happens that way.

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Is cleaning the "strainer" really necessary if I change the filter every time? I'm anal about maintainence, so I change the oil more often than what is recommended anyway.

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change the oil ever 2 to 3 trips to glamis... check the strainer once every 8-10 months usually clean the oil filter every change since its there and easy to get to...

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I clean my strainer about after evry 10 15 rides it always looks clean because of the oil changes and I just clean er up and slap her back in no problems.

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Every 500-kms In The Book I Don't Know What That Is In Miles,from What I Understand "dry Sump" Run Hotter Then "wet Sump" Therefore More Oil Changes,and Don't Use Cheap Oil I.e-friction Modified As This Will Stuff Your Clutch.

In the case of the CRF's, dry sump can run hotter, due to lower oil volume and no oil cooler. In the YZ/WR, the oil is ran through the frame, which cools the oil down before going back through the engine, so it is actually one of the coolest running engines around. Props to the Yammi engineers!

As for oil changes, these bikes only use about a quart of oil, so you aren't going to get the same life you would get out of the 4+ quarts you put in your car...not to mention that you are harder on the engine.

That said, your oil changes should be based on usage. If you are racing, yes, change your oil after every ride. If you ride really hard, but aren't racing, maybe every other ride. If you occasionally ride hard, but mostly cruise around, every 3-5 rides...you get the picture.

Also, when you do your oil changes, smell what fresh oil smells like, then smell your used oil. If there is a significant difference in smell, you probably went too long between changes.

That doesn't seem very scientific, but in actuallity, your nose can be used as a highly accurate instrument. If you have scorched your oil, it will smell burnt. If you have a lot of blow-by (ie. your rings are shot) you will smell a faint exhaust smell in the oil, and so on. Keep in mind, the the oil IS going to smell different after being ridden. Every time you ride it, pull out the dipstick and take a whiff, just to get an idea of how the smell changes as the oil ages.

If you really want to find out what kind of oil change intervals you need to keep, you can send the oil in for analysis for about $20. Might be worth it once, just to find out.

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mountainriderWR400F, you live near Boise? We should hook up sometime this spring and do some riding. I'm kinda new here, and don't know many people to ride with. I'm getting pretty familiar with Plesant Valley, and I've been to Payette a couple times, & Blacks Creek once, but that's about it. I'd like to learn some new areas!

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Stupid Question: What tools are needed to do oil changes, air filter removal and valve adjustments? I'm not a mechanic, but am going to learn how to maintain my 05 WR450 -- if it kills me :cry:

Elton

P.S. - I bought the Lowedog kit; the instruction to remove the AIS is far more complicated than I thought -- also, what tools are needed to do this mod?

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I STRONGLY recommend buying a Clymer repair manual and read the first few chapters...then read them again, just to make sure you understand what you just read. If you are unfamilar with what tools to use for what job, just having us tell you will just get you into trouble.

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Well said by BEEF. :cry: I would only add that you should change the oil at about 200 miles for hard riding is a good measure. Or if you ride in dusty or sandy conditions. Buy the Scotts reusable filter. After about 4 changes it pays for itself. :cry: I check the Strainer in the frame about every 4 changes. Although I have never found any thing in it. :cry: Also, purchase a magnetic drain plug. Gears and clutch plates do wear and those tiny shaving can cause problems if they build up. :cry:

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There was a thread back a while ago and about 20 people said that they had never found anything in their strainer and not one person said they had. I dont't think i'll be checking it very often...

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I change after EVERY WEEKEND in the desert. Filter about every 3-4 rides, clean in between with contact cleaner.

My '00WR400 has been flawless for 4 years under sometimes extreme use. I ride it fairly hard, and sometimes tie ribbon for races where I have to idle often. I use my clutch constantly to control power, so there are wear particles throughout the engine.

Considering the cost of a new engine, new oil every 200 miles or so is cheap insurance.

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