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Running YZ plate on a WR


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I had to jury rig up a mount of sorts. The lower two prongs of the # plate will fit in the headlight(?) bracket WITH MODIFICATIONS. You can either trim down your # palte prongs or drill out your bracket (which I chose). You will then have to tap them out, and use larger bolts to secure your headlight.

I am still in the process of making my own upper bracket which is a aluminum billet 'Z' shape drilled and tapped to line up your Odo mount with that of the mount hole in the # plate. I temporarily am successfully using a zip tie for the upper bracket. Hey...it works for now!

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'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat.

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I "turned down" the prongs with my drill. Just close the chuck to the desired size, turn it one and push it over the pins, worked great. And for the bracket, I used a piece of plumbers tape and bent it at a 45 gegree angle and bolted it up.

This will also give you the opportunity to loose the odometer. Just order the YZ seal and spacer for the axle, to replace the odo drive.

Bill

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99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP, 48PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

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I have Scott's upper T-clamp, so they sell both a odo mount and a YZ number plate mount. Then all you have to do is drill out the tangs on the lower T-clamp (remove the bracket of course) and it is done. I sold my headlight so I don't worry about reinstalling it. Figure if I need a light sometime, one of those duel lamps rigs that Baja sells would be the real deal.....

Replace the rear fenderwith the YZ model also and save yourself a couple of pounds overall.

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I drilled a hole in the number plate that lines up with the lower headlight bracket. The locating pins on the bottom of the plate can be cut off or pulled backwards to stay out of the way of the bracket. For the top, I just used some aluminum angle stock with one hole that lines up with the mounting hole in the plate and one that lines up with the centermost mounting hole for the odometer (once it's removed).

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