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snmhanson

Gearing Down a WR450?

18 posts in this topic

I mostly ride tight trails and when I'm in the open I still don't really care about having the fastest bike out there. So I'm thinking I'd like to lower my gearing a little bit so I can crawl around in first and not worry so much about working the clutch. To do this do I decrease or increase the number of teeth in my front sprocket? I think I would decrease the teeth in the front, correct? And how many teeth should I go? It seems like I hear most people talking two, maybe three teeth but I'm not sure. What other effects would this have on my bike? Will the engine rev quiker and have a slightly harder hit? I really don't want to make it any harder to control. Thanks.

Matt

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They make a 12 tooth but I do not recommend it. 13 tooth is best for Trials type riding to save your clutch.:cry: The bike is still easy to control but first gear becomes a nice gear for crawling.

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drop one tooth in the front, it will make a pretty big differnce, and if that is not enough add two teeth in the rear...you should be idleing up the hills.:cry:

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With 14/50, the ratio is 3.57:1 so to get the same as one tooth in the front, you'd need about 3 to 4 (3.57) in the rear. I like making changes in the rear sprocket, but the advantage of doing a front is quicker change and no extra chain to buy. But the sharper turn on the front will wear the chain a little faster, and rub the slider a little more. If this is just a temporay trial, go 13 in the front. Who knows, you might not like it:excuseme:

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Exactly Toyota! That is why I run 13/14/15 tooth fronts with a stock 50 rear and the same chain. I like changing the front for quick gearing changes.:cry:

Chain will wear quicker but that is OK with me. :cry:

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I just went with a 13/49 Ironman setup for the tight stuff and it helped quite a bit. It's ratio is between a 14/52 and 14/53 (closer to the 14/53). The reason I got the 13/49 setup is because Ironman is backordered on the 52 and 53's.

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Thanks for the help. Hey toyota, was it difficult getting your bike registered in Washintgon. Our DMV basically told me that plating a new dirt bike is next to impossible, even if you do the upgrades to make it "street legal". He told me to just not get caught riding to the trails or crossing a street on it. If it is coming from another state and was plated there you can transfer the title and keep it plated but a new dirt bike supposedly can't be done. How'd you do it? I do have a friend in Oregon who could "buy" my bike and get it plated there and then "sell" it back to me but that is kind of a hassle. I think the state is screwing themselves here since if I can't plate it I'm not going to register it and thus I might forget to pay the sales tax on it since I bought it in Oregon.

Matt

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Wait, let me modify my last post. I will of course pay the sales tax since I am an upstanding citizen but I could see many of those other more typical scoundrel dirt-biker types :cry: skipping out on the sales tax.

Matt

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Thanks for the help. Hey toyota, was it difficult getting your bike registered in Washintgon. Our DMV basically told me that plating a new dirt bike is next to impossible, even if you do the upgrades to make it "street legal".
Key word is "next to" but not "impossible". I bought this bike brand new and I'm a WA resident. My last bike was a 01 WR426F and it was also road plated. A fellow TT'r in here now owns it. He bought it because it was road plated. I have done this and your right, its pretty tough. This state quit doing inspections for any conversions. So you have to do it a bit differently. I went into great lengths on this, I need to do a seminar. But I did take down all my post, didnt want some doogooder lawmaker getting my secrets and closing the loophole. If you PM me, let me know what you want as far as bikes go, want it new or used and I can walk you right through it. Its tricky, but can be done! The new one was the easiest if you can imagine that. My title sais WR450F and it sais in use class "G/CYC" for gasoline cycle or "road legal" otherwise, if you have an ORV is the use class, its a branded title and is "almost" impossible. Notice the key word "alomst" :cry:

He told me to just not get caught riding to the trails or crossing a street on it. If it is coming from another state and was plated there you can transfer the title and keep it plated but a new dirt bike supposedly can't be done. How'd you do it? I do have a friend in Oregon who could "buy" my bike and get it plated there and then "sell" it back to me but that is kind of a hassle.

Its probably your only option on that bike, and not a bad option. I've had my motorcycle endorsment since 1977. I was a sophmore in high school. I had a 1975 Honda MT125 Elsinore. It was the street version. Anyone remember those?

I think the state is screwing themselves here since if I can't plate it I'm not going to register it and thus I might forget to pay the sales tax on it since I bought it in Oregon.

Yes, road tags will net more $$$. And if you did end up with an Oregon plate, this state will honor all out of state plates and the plate will also allow ORV use too. So technically, the state would lose a lot of revenue on you! I've come to the conclusion, I wont own a dirt bike unless its road plated. Well, atleast my main one. I didnt plate any others ones. I do have a Kawasaki KLR650 I use for dirt roads. My WR isnt really road legal. It does have a high/lo beam, stop lamp and little flip up mirrors. But thats it. I dont use ot down the interstate, just zipping down a forest service road etc.:cry:

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I ride mostly tight technical trails, the same trails with TORTURE CHAMBERS. I geared donwn to 13/50, wasnt enough, finally settled on a 12/50. I like it, I dont have to clutch it so much when going through our boulder-strewn river crossings, but it still stalls on me sometimes. Im hoping someone will make a heavier flywheel for this bike soon, so I can try that. Anyway, it is possible to use a 12 front and an o-ring chain together (I used a spacer in between the sprocket and case to make sure the chain doesnt hit the case.)

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I ride mostly tight technical trails, the same trails with TORTURE CHAMBERS. I geared donwn to 13/50, wasnt enough, finally settled on a 12/50. I like it, I dont have to clutch it so much when going through our boulder-strewn river crossings, but it still stalls on me sometimes. Im hoping someone will make a heavier flywheel for this bike soon, so I can try that. Anyway, it is possible to use a 12 front and an o-ring chain together (I used a spacer in between the sprocket and case to make sure the chain doesnt hit the case.)

12/50 ???:cry: I reckon I'd be lucky to do 50mph.

Don't you find it too snappy in the lower gears?

I'm guessing your bike has WR timing!

I run 14/50 and I find that plenty sharp enough down low.

If you have a spacer on the front, you really should have one on the rear sprocket to match.

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:cry: I do not reccomend a 12 tooth counter at all... you can get the same results from a 13 with a 53 or 54 on back... I would think your chain will fail in no time at all.... but I guess I cant really say, as I have never tried it....:cry:

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yo batty, if your bike is a 04 -5 chuck steahly offers a +8 complete flywheel for around $150. i use it on mine to make up the difference from removing the the starter gears and clutch. it also ups the juice a little. :cry:

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I had a 1975 Honda MT125 Elsinore. It was the street version. Anyone remember those?:cry:
Yea I sure do, my best friend had a MT 250, along with my SL-100, we used to ride all of the oil roads here in east Texas, man that was a long time ago.

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I messed with gearing my bike down and never was happy. The lower gears caused the bike to run noticably hotter. I changed the gears back on the side of the trail and it started running cooler with the factory gears. When I got home I ordered my z-start and haven't had any problems since then in the trees.:cry:

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