Jump to content

Where to get Hot Start lever kit (01)426


Recommended Posts

if you get a Dr D hot start (btw....you will love it), make sure you lube the cable really good BEFORE you install it. Then the "plunger" that goes into the carb, put a very thin coat of lithum grease on it. And lastly, use clear ATV silicone sealant and seal around the outside of the cable where it goes into the plunger. This will keep water out of the plunger/carb area. Some users of the DR D unit have had the plunger seize in the carb due to water and rust. As long as you seal the outside of the cable as stated above and use a thin film of lithium lube on the plunger you will be ok. I usually take the plunger out and lube it about twice a year.

If you have any questions let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We always had the problem Satch talks about with our 250F until we started adding a simple step to our wash routine. After we wash the bike, we run the engine just long enough to get it off the choke, then hold the rpm up a bit with the hot start lever held in for about 15-30 seconds. This clears the water from the airways around the valve, and as long as we do that, it never sticks. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LIke mentioned, be sure there is grease on that hot start plunger or they will stick. They are sticky from the factory on the 3rd gen+ FCR carbs. I have seen about 80% of the hotstarts stick out of the crate.

One word of caution on the DRD unit, since it is side loading the carb fitting, do not tighten the hotstart into the carb beyond about 5 in-lb. I did it more on mine and cracked the carb housing which caused the side to chip out. Some epoxy and it holds, but nothing like factory. The vertical units are much better on the 03+ carbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...