Mobile 1 Red Cap?

I have used Mobil 1 red cap for a year and think it works great in my 04 yzf 450. Go with it.

When transitioning to synthetic oil are there any specific steps to be taken to ensure all the petroleum oil is gone from the crank/frame? Does it matter?

Dose not matter. They are fine to mix.

I run Redline pure synthetic and it is made for four strokes. :cry:

I hate to ask what this stuff cost... I used to run it in mar IT SCCA - car awesome product! :cry:

Also how often do you find you have to change your with this stuff? The REDline motoroil definitely had a longer life in my cars - :cry:

just curious?

My brother is a manager for a company called Pacific Pride, which in other areas of Cali is called Interstate Oil. He gets me an awesome discount on this stuff. :cry: I think it is 6.50 a quart. But he gets it to me for closer to 3.50. :cry: And If I buy two cases at once its an even better price break. :cry: And I can go twice as long without changing oil. But I dont. I change oil every 5 rides. If I was using cheaper stuff I would change every three rides. For how clean it is though, I could probably go 10 rides before a change, I'm just a maintenance :cry: FREAK!! :cry:

And I can go twice as long without changing oil. But I dont. I change oil every 5 rides. If I was using cheaper stuff I would change every three rides. For how clean it is though, I could probably go 10 rides before a change, I'm just a maintenance :cry: FREAK!! :cry:
Some things to consider: It doesn't matter how much your oil costs, your engine costs more, lots more. The ratings given out for oil change intervals assume a level of filtration I'm not convinced is available to us on a YZF, or any motorcycle. In addition to that, YZFs run the oil through the transmission, which tends to chew up the oil pretty rapidly. What gets broken down first is the long chain molecules added in to make it a multi-grade oil. TT'r SUnruh has reported oil analyses showing viscosity loss after just a few HOURS use that resulted in a 10w-40 testing as a 7w-32. (Using oils that carry Commercial (CF or higher) grades helps defend against this). Besides, the clutch and trans dump more crap in your oil than 3 of your engines would.

I change mine every 3 ride days, or every race day, and always clean the filter.

FYI-Just picked up a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 Red Cap last night at Walmart for $22.97. I'm located in So.Cal.

Mx4t 3 years now. Alot of people like the red cap mobil 1 though

Some things to consider: It doesn't matter how much your oil costs, your engine costs more, lots more. The ratings given out for oil change intervals assume a level of filtration I'm not convinced is available to us on a YZF, or any motorcycle. In addition to that, YZFs run the oil through the transmission, which tends to chew up the oil pretty rapidly. What gets broken down first is the long chain molecules added in to make it a multi-grade oil. TT'r SUnruh has reported oil analyses showing viscosity loss after just a few HOURS use that resulted in a 10w-40 testing as a 7w-32. (Using oils that carry Commercial (CF or higher) grades helps defend against this). Besides, the clutch and trans dump more crap in your oil than 3 of your engines would.

I change mine every 3 ride days, or every race day, and always clean the filter.

You're right, If I could not get the price break I would still be buying 6-8 dollar a quart oil because of what you said. "Your engine costs more than the oil". I've just noticed that since Im not much of a clutch abuser that my oil comes out pretty clean.Thats why I said I "could" go 10 rides but do not:naughty: . Also since I can get that good of a price break then why not. I could be getting 4.00 a quart oil from my brother for 89cents but why not run the best oil I can get:excuseme: . BTW when you refer to TT'r SUnruh. What is this?:cry: I'm not being pickey, I'm just curious.
Where do you buy this stuff? Local Yamaha shop wants $12/quart for castrol synthetic. Ugh.... Not available at Autozone?
Local Discount Motorcycle Shop:

YamaLube 4 = $3.95

YamaLube 4R = $7.95

M1 4stk = $9.99

Wal-Mart

M1 4stk = $6.95

BTW when you refer to TT'r SUnruh. What is this?:cry: I'm not being pickey, I'm just curious.
SUnruh is a Thumper Talk (TT) member whose opinions I have come to respect. He's also one of the moderators on the 250F forum. I was quoting some info he posted.

You don't have to defend saving a buck to me, either. I was only referring to how easily published oil change intervals can mislead people.

:cry:

I'll have to check out some of his threads then:thumbsup:

Also with the oil change interval I have known many people to neglect changing oil, even while racing, my brothers manual did not specify so he thought every 20 rides or so:eek: :cry: :cry: . WHOA!! He only did this once until my dad found out and gave him a good talk:bonk:

I recently switched to Amsoil 100% synthetic 10w-40. $5 a quart and doesn't contain any Molly (Mobile recently started adding molly to the red cap oil). Amsoil is one of the best oils out there!

I recently switched to Amsoil 100% synthetic 10w-40. $5 a quart and doesn't contain any Moll (Mobile recently started adding molly to the red cap oil). Amsoil is one of the best oils out there!

What is Molly, is it chrome molly and why would they start adding it now?:cry:

Here is a good article on motor oil...........

Motorcycle Motor Oil

I recently switched to Amsoil 100% synthetic 10w-40. $5 a quart and doesn't contain any Molly (Mobile recently started adding molly to the red cap oil). Amsoil is one of the best oils out there!

If indeed they started adding molly to the oil, the oil is still fine for the bikes so it should be even better than before. If they found a formulation of molly that doesn't cause the clutch to slip, it should provide better lubrication than it did before.

My clutch doesn't slip even the slightest bit, and all I have ever run in the bike is M1 red cap. I plan on continuing to do so as well.

What is Molly, is it chrome molly and why would they start adding it now?:cry:
Moly is molybdenum, usually in the form of molybdenum disulfide, and is a friction reducer. Consensus generally is that it would not be a benefit for a wet clutch. Depends on the quantity per volume.

Red Cap for over two years. great product!

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