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jerryls

Trail Tech dashboard

21 posts in this topic

Need some advice for mounting my Trail Tech computer. I have BRP upper triple clamps w/ a dampner and oversize bars. I've seen about 5 different types of dashboards, but don't know which ones will work. Anybody run into this problem? Any creative solutions? Any input would be appreciated. Pictures would be even better!

Thanks,

Jerry

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This is what my set up looks like except for the Scotts unit is rotated 180 degrees bringing it 2 inches closer to the tank so you can see the Trailtech easier:

Scotts provides a BRP clamp and billet kit with rubber mounted Pro tapers not shown in this photo but the mounting is the same. :cry:

http://www.trailtech.net/images/fatbar/wr250_2003.jpg

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You can also use the existing ODO mounting plate. Just turn it upside down and attach.

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How easy is it to remove the trailtech from thiose billet mount surrounds for cleaning the bike etc? I am using the std ba clamp on my fat bars, cos you can easily slide the comp head off the mounting to wash the bike down?

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The computer slides right out of the billet protector. There is a lever you push and it slides forward. The wire stays.

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What does that trail tech do for you? Is it mainly for the racing you crazy bastads do? I saw them for sale at some website but could not find their purpose :cry:

yes, I guess I am just an amateur.....

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What does that trail tech do for you? Is it mainly for the racing you crazy bastads do? I saw them for sale at some website but could not find their purpose :cry:

yes, I guess I am just an amateur.....

Speedo, av speed, riding time, odometer, trip, clock, the ability to transfer from bike to bike without loosing settings... :cry:

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How tough is it to install the sensor on the brakes? I got to the part in the instructions where it says to remove your brakes and drill into them then stopped for the evening. Is it obvious where it goes? Anyone have any photos?

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Pictures:

http://www.trailtech.net/images/honda/cr450_moto_sensor.jpg

http://www.trailtech.net/images/yamaha/wr_cable_routing.jpg

There is a nice front edge on the outside of the caliper bracket that fits the 90 degree mount. I use a drill with a very small bit. Loctite the screw after tapping the hole with the screw. It works perfectly with the magnetic rotor bolt. :cry:

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The instructions clearly say to use a 1/8" bit. If you do that it will work great.

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Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I need more info. I went to a machine shop to have them mill 3 mm off the front of the upper bar clamp so I could put my dashboard there. They said it would take about an hour and cost $80 :cry: . That seems way out of line. What is the going rate for a small job like this?

With the clamp being aluminum, can I just break out the rasping file and get busy?

Thanks!

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I wouldn't mill or file the top clamps... the photos above have it mounted under a fatbar adapter. I'll be doing similar with mine, but mine will use a 1" spacer (works the same way).

The dashboard is designed to simply mount under the front bolt heads.

I'd be worried about milling/filing too much or too little and not getting proper clamping. I guess it wouldn't kill if you took a little too much... as long as there's some space left between the top clamp and mount at the rear.

Just ink and then scribe a line 3mm up from the bottom all the way around the front edge of the top clamps, and cut right to that line.

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Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I need more info. I went to a machine shop to have them mill 3 mm off the front of the upper bar clamp so I could put my dashboard there. They said it would take about an hour and cost $80 :cry: . That seems way out of line. What is the going rate for a small job like this?

With the clamp being aluminum, can I just break out the rasping file and get busy?

Thanks!

$80???? What!?! Theres now way that milling that off would take an hour. I have a vertical mill and shaving 3mm off aluminum shouldn't take much longer than 15-25 minutes. Now if that was steel or iron....that'd take a little while longer. I'd do it for you for free if my mill was in working condition.

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The guy at work who did it for me took about 2 minutes to set it up, measured again for safety's sake and then took about 1 minute to cut it. Ofcourse he is a skilled machinist, and knows what he is doing. All told, I spent five minutes bullshitting with him and five minutes watching him work.

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