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Guest BrandonV

Improve 00' YZ426 braking!?!?!?! how?

31 posts in this topic

The brakes on my 2000 suck! I didnt realize quite how bad they were until I rode my brother in law's CRF250X. Besides bleeding the system, what else can I do to get some power from these thing?

Thanks.

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The brakes on my 2000 suck! I didnt realize quite how bad they were until I rode my brother in law's CRF250X. Besides bleeding the system, what else can I do to get some power from these thing?

Thanks.

read the post on CR routing....for some ideas. :cry:

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Brandon

Not much you can do truthfully, the 2000 has non flaoters in the front thismakes a big differance as well as the master cylinder. I put the cr routing on as well as an over sized roter in the front, works like a charm, although, when I ride m sons 02 250 its is far better for sure, even the back

The best thing I did to control the rear (Which Sucks beyond imagine) is to put a rekluse clutch on. This allows you to use the rear brake to stear just like a smoker.

Dont matter if you lock up the engine will continue on its way. Makes the bike corner and setup up for corners allot better

Dont get OEM or cheap pads either, I got some EBC pads and they made things better as well

One last note

Brake fluid is a key as well, just spend the cash and Get the Motul 600, I have tried Belray, Castrol and others, believe me Motul 600 is the best bet. NOTE DO NOT USE Dot 5 Use Dot 4 or Dot 5.1

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The brakes on the '01 are 100% better. The '01 has a floating disc, and also a Nissin MC.

If it were my bike I think it would be worth it to try swapping the MC, but that is just my opinion, I've not tried this on my (long since sold) '00 and don't know if it would work. You may need to replace the brake line if the banjo bolt is oriented differently than w/ your Akebono MC.

Nissin MC on EBay

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Thanks guys!

I'm very interested in that Nissin swap. If anyone has any pertinant info I'd sure like to hear it.

John,

bike is almost back together from its super-teardown (including clutch cover :cry: ) all I need now is for the rain to letup a bit so I can let her rip. Thanks again!

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I ran a few different setups on my 426.

First was stock. Which was fine, be sure to use the OEM pads. They seem to work best.

Then swapped out the MC for a newer Nissin unit. Any 01+ YZ or late 90s CR unit works great. I did this for the ASV levers, but that is a huge difference there. The newer the unit, the better.

Then went to the CR brake routing in SS. Worked even better.

Got the oversized disc (floating) and it almost worked to well where I would not grab enough brake.

So then I went back to the stock non-floating disc with the SS CR line and 03 nissin YZ mc. That was the best setup I found.

Keep the fluid clean and bled often for best performance. Dont forget the rear brakes also.

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96xr6,

you kept the stock caliper on at all times? Is it possible or worth my while to swap that out?

Thx

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yeah stock caliper the whole time. The pistons are larger on the 03+ bikes, but just get the nissin MC and bleed the system. That will be the best improvement you will feel (you will need a new lever also).

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Also Ferodo Brake pads will help your stopping power by alot! But it is really hard to find those pads. Well worth the money for sure!

yz007f

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Make sure your pads are ok. I like th estock Honda CR pads. Tey drop right in to the front calipers built since 98.

The next step would be to exchange the mastercylinder. I used a Honda CR model because they are easy to find on ebay. The front brake is much better now. I went with a cr style line. It may have helped a little, but nothing compared to the new mastercylinder.

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Thanks for the advice....

I'll be (hopefully) getting that MC that Hick put the link to. I'll also have a look into the CR routing. Anyone know if my stock brake hose will bolt right up to that Nissin MC?

THanks.

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I got the Nissin MC and now I'm looking into getting the Ride Engineering stainless brake line, but am a little confused about which one and what else I might need.

Ride Engineering sells a Direct Route YZ stainless front brake line, is that a CR style line or should I order the CR line? And is the $30 brake clamp a necessity or is there an alterate (i.e. cheaper) method?

Thanks!

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First off if you want this to look factory, go purchase the Litespeed fork guards:

Image: http://www.lightspeedperf.com/products/images/products/141-17064_0.jpg

$40 for those.

Then you need to purchase a CR (or what is called 05 YZ front brake line or 04+ Kawi/Suzuki line) from a company. You can either go OEM or SS aftermarket. Stay away from the galfer brand lines -- the fittings break where they are crimped (speaking from experience here). Fastline is a great line. OEM would work also since you can find takeoffs on Ebay.

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I talked to the guy at Ride Engineering and he delivered a set for me to my local retailer since we're all in the neighborhood. I'll end up getting the Ride Eng. lines, but dont really want to shell out $30-$40 for brackets or fork guards if I dont have to.

My YZ is more fit for the ghetto than the beauty pagent, so I'm not too concerned with the factory look. But if those fork guards are what it takes to prevent toasted brake lines then I'll get them.

Thx.

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Don't be so cheap. Buy the fork guards and maybe it won't look so ghetto. Graphics might help also help.

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I installed a Galfer CR-style brakehose and noticed a slight improvement over stock. The big improvement came after installing some EBC MXS front pads. It allows me to use one finger on the brake where with the stock pads, I had to use three or four.

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Make sure your pads are ok. I like th estock Honda CR pads. Tey drop right in to the front calipers built since 98.

The next step would be to exchange the mastercylinder. I used a Honda CR model because they are easy to find on ebay. The front brake is much better now. I went with a cr style line. It may have helped a little, but nothing compared to the new mastercylinder.

Yup. My front pads on my '00 got about half way worn and the lever feel was aweful. I could pull it into the grip. I tried bleeding, with poor results. Once I put new pads in it was like new. HUGE difference, i never would have believed it.

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To answer the question about the mounting kit, yes you must somehow solidly mount the hose to the fork card. If not, all the loads from the suspension moving around will be straight to the caliber may cause the fitting to fail. I have using the Ride Engineering one and it is fine but if the difference is only 10 bucks I would get the fork guard that has it built in. That seems more solid and less prone to a screw up when you install it.

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Thanks for the response. I can get the Ride Eng. one without having to order so I'll probably do that or see about fabricating one.

Thanks.

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