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Jason_Williams

ANNOYING CHAIN SLAP

9 posts in this topic

Any one have any suggtions about how to keep this from happening? I hav'nt noticed it as much until I put in a vortip. Now I can here everything over the barking. The chain seems to slap the top of the swing arm when the rpms are on the low side. This is very annoying!!!!!!!!!!!!! Help!!!!!?

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Have you checked your chain tension? If too loose, chain slap will most surely result.

Try this foolproof method for adjusting chain tension.

With the bike on a stand, you want to pull the shock off the bike, BUT LEAVE THE REAR TIRE AND CHAIN ON. With the shock off, you can move the rear tire very easily through it's arc. Adjust the tension to allow the chain to not bind up while the chain is at max extension. Also, be sure your tire is not cocked in the swingarm. My old Honda was off by fully one hash mark on the swingarm. I found out by measuring the axle distance, both sides to that of the swingarm pivot. You can also use a straight edge on your sprocket checked in parallel with your chain.

Once you have the perfect tension, put the shock back on. With the bike still on it's stand, find a very convenient place to measure chain tension (I used a buffer pad on the swingarm. Pulling the chain up, measure the distance, commit this number to memory and there you have it. No more second guessing if your chain is too tight or too loose.

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I use the three finger method. At the end of the rub guard, on top of the swing arm, make sure you have three fingers width to the bottom of the chain.

Once I get this measurement. I wad up a towel and put it between the chain and rear spocket (top) and roll the tire backwards. This will keep the axle all the way forward, against the measuring blocks. While it's "wedged" into place tighten the axle nut.

The one thing you want to make sure of, is that the chain is not to tight. If it is, you could grenade the rear hub. Too loose is better than to tight.

Bill

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99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards , Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP, 48PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

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what about bringing the back tire forword and removing a link? Would that do any thing? I've ajusted the chain tension per the manual. ????????????

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Jason,

Yes you can remove a link. Over time the DID chain that comes stock will flex and strech a bit. Bill's measurement method is good and it works. I use either a cut off 2x4 piece (1.50 inches wide) slipped between the chain and the swingarm guard (gives you 1.75" slack). If i'm in the field and need to do it I use the same method that Bill uses.

Bonzai..... :)

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I use the three finger method. At the end of the rub guard, on top of the swing arm, make sure you have three fingers width to the bottom of the chain.

Once I get this measurement. I wad up a towel and put it between the chain and rear spocket (top) and roll the tire backwards. This will keep the axle all the way forward, against the measuring blocks. While it's "wedged" into place tighten the axle nut.

The one thing you want to make sure of, is that the chain is not to tight. If it is, you could grenade the rear hub. Too loose is better than to tight.

Bill

------------------

99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards , Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP, 48PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

How about measuring your three fingers, there could be more than an inch difference between Hulk Hogan and Pee Wee Herman :ride: Just teasing you :crazy:

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How about measuring your three fingers, there could be more than an inch difference between Hulk Hogan and Pee Wee Herman :ride: Just teasing you :crazy:

Hey that works, I use 50mm if I have a ruler (48min) and it seems OK.

Too loose and it will rub the inside of the subframe - check for scrapes. Sounds like a "tinny" tinking sound on decel. The WR chain accepts very little in the way of accepatble adjustment - or is it the crap original chain!

Too tight and it will also potentially damage either drive end, countershaft or backwheel... :ride:

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The WR chain accepts very little in the way of accepatble adjustment - or is it the crap original chain!

I don't know what chain you got on your bike but I got a DID 520VM stock on mine. It is one of the very best chains available on the market today. If you think this is a crap chain, I would like to see a good one! :crazy:

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Any one have any suggtions about how to keep this from happening? I hav'nt noticed it as much until I put in a vortip. Now I can here everything over the barking. The chain seems to slap the top of the swing arm when the rpms are on the low side. This is very annoying!!!!!!!!!!!!! Help!!!!!?

You might find that a slight adjustment on the axle blocks will help solve the problem. Just a quick 1/3 of a turn (to make chain tighter) on the adjuster nuts is needed.

Make sure the axle is spot on with alignment too.

I have also found that a 15 front sprocket does wonders too.

15/53 is just about the same as the stock 14/50 gearing (3.53 vs 3.57).

I find 15/52 is nice. It spreads out the gears a bit more with out taking away the punch. 15/50 is too much for my liking, too spread out, too slow on acceleration. Goes fast though!

If you don't stop this chain slap, it will wear out your slider very quickly and the chain will start to wear through your swing arm.

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