HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
dangermouse007

Magura Clutch

12 posts in this topic

Has anybody had problems with the Magura clutch system... Mine leeked last night, and re Bleeding it is a B*stard... if anybody has any Tips let me know please, the the Clutch is gonna get launched....

Ordered the Bleed kit for Magura Today, so will see what happens tomorrow...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

having an extra helper is almost necessary when bleeding..

here's what you do....

make sure that the master cylinder lid is as level as you can get it.

disconnect the line from the slave cylinder, and the slave from the bike. be careful not to bend the post on the slave ..if it is bent, trash the whole slave.. not repairable. new one is like 60 bucks from magura USA..

if the oil is old it will be black and do not try to catch it. remove the cover from the master cylinder.. take the syringe and fill with the new oil (magura brand only) making sure that there is no air in it at all. there is a little adapter that will fit on the end of the syringe tube and it will have threads to screw into the slave. ad little rubber washer to it. make sure that the piston is at the end of its throw before you screw in the syringe. squeeze the fluid in and the piston should move all of the way over. it is now full. unscrew making sure not to spill or move piston and set it aside for a second. now have one person hold the little white plug (that comes with bleed kit) and hold syringe to line with finger pressing hard on the other side of the line so oil will not leak while the other person squeezes the oil into the line and watches the level in master reservoir, filling all the way to the top. now as fast as you can, put the little plug in the end of the line. you will loose some fluid, but as long as oil level doesn't drop below the bottom of reservoir your OK. now fill the reservoir to the top again as you will loose fluid in the next step too. as fast as you can put line on slave with the washers and get the little bolt through and tightend as fast as you can.. the key is to not let the level in the master drop to the point that there is air in the line. fill master reservoir to about 1/8 from the top. do not pump system until the slave is mounted back to clutch actuator arm an everything is back into place except lid. pump a couple of times and the rest of (if any) the air will rise to the top of the reservoir fill back up if necessary and you should be ready to go..

wipe the whole system down and check for leaks. when I did mine it would work just fine but when I came out the next day I had a couple of drops clinging to the line. it was leaking, just barley but thats all it takes..

the stainless steel line is worth buy IMO. you can rebuild master with new piston, but the slave has to be replaced if bad..

if you need parts call 1-800-448-3876 and ask for Lonnie Shultz he will hook you up. I would recomend getting two of the small bottles of oil because you will loose alot tn the proccess .

hope this helps.. :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank youv ery much... I have order the Bleed Kit this morning as the Clutch came with the bike with no information or Bits......Did you remove the Clutch Spring ??? as it says remove but mine is still working ???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
having an extra helper is almost necessary when bleeding..

here's what you do....

make sure that the master cylinder lid is as level as you can get it.

disconnect the line from the slave cylinder, and the slave from the bike. be careful not to bend the post on the slave ..if it is bent, trash the whole slave.. not repairable. new one is like 60 bucks from magura USA..

if the oil is old it will be black and do not try to catch it. remove the cover from the master cylinder.. take the syringe and fill with the new oil (magura brand only) making sure that there is no air in it at all. there is a little adapter that will fit on the end of the syringe tube and it will have threads to screw into the slave. ad little rubber washer to it. make sure that the piston is at the end of its throw before you screw in the syringe. squeeze the fluid in and the piston should move all of the way over. it is now full. unscrew making sure not to spill or move piston and set it aside for a second. now have one person hold the little white plug (that comes with bleed kit) and hold syringe to line with finger pressing hard on the other side of the line so oil will not leak while the other person squeezes the oil into the line and watches the level in master reservoir, filling all the way to the top. now as fast as you can, put the little plug in the end of the line. you will loose some fluid, but as long as oil level doesn't drop below the bottom of reservoir your OK. now fill the reservoir to the top again as you will loose fluid in the next step too. as fast as you can put line on slave with the washers and get the little bolt through and tightend as fast as you can.. the key is to not let the level in the master drop to the point that there is air in the line. fill master reservoir to about 1/8 from the top. do not pump system until the slave is mounted back to clutch actuator arm an everything is back into place except lid. pump a couple of times and the rest of (if any) the air will rise to the top of the reservoir fill back up if necessary and you should be ready to go..

wipe the whole system down and check for leaks. when I did mine it would work just fine but when I came out the next day I had a couple of drops clinging to the line. it was leaking, just barley but thats all it takes..

the stainless steel line is worth buy IMO. you can rebuild master with new piston, but the slave has to be replaced if bad..

if you need parts call 1-800-448-3876 and ask for Lonnie Shultz he will hook you up. I would recomend getting two of the small bottles of oil because you will loose alot tn the proccess .

hope this helps.. :cry:

Thanks dude, you just sold me on keeping my cable clutch! :cry::cry:

Seriously, I would'nt bother with the Magura personally, there's just way too much room for error in that system, & they seem somewhat "fragile" compared to a cable setup. I remember hearing tons of horror stories from the guys on visordown.com (UK site) about wearing out the seals in the slave cylinders & getting leaks all the time (Yamaha's & KTM's). Cables, while "old fashion", have proven to be reliable, & are cheap to replace, & that's good enough for me. :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks dude, you just sold me on keeping my cable clutch! :cry::cry:

Seriously, I would'nt bother with the Magura personally, there's just way too much room for error in that system, & they seem somewhat "fragile" compared to a cable setup. I remember hearing tons of horror stories from the guys on visordown.com (UK site) about wearing out the seals in the slave cylinders & getting leaks all the time (Yamaha's & KTM's). Cables, while "old fashion", have proven to be reliable, & are cheap to replace, & that's good enough for me. :cry:

The funny thing is my friend has a Magura on his '04 and my '04 with a cable is easier then his clutch. Maybe there is something wrong with his? I'm not familiar with hydraulic clutches. I just keep my cable well lubed and have NEVER had a problem, EVER! I think I'll keep my $40 cable set-up for quite some time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I remember hearing tons of horror stories from the guys on visordown.com (UK site) about wearing out the seals in the slave cylinders & getting leaks all the time...:

there were some problems in the earlier models that had a plastic cap on the slave wich is very important as it keeps all of the bad out and the good in .. this is what failed in my system.. the plastic cap is a pice of $#!t, but the newer slaves have been corrected with a metal one...

The funny thing is my friend has a Magura on his '04 and my '04 with a cable is easier then his clutch..

my system works great.. smooth and easy :cry: way easier than any cable driven clutch that I have on my bikes ...... but, it was allready on the bike when I got it, so I can't compare to the cable on my WR.....

there's just way too much room for error in that system, & they seem somewhat "fragile"

I think my new system with the stainless steel line will be bullet proof.... but only time will tell as I haven't ridden much since the rebuild..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you've done your homework then. Honestly it's been awhile since I've seen any info on them. Let us know how it works out. for my $ though, a well lubed/maintained cable is hard to beat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oK this thing is P*ssing me off now.............

I have a good solid Clutch lever , it moves as far as I think it should, put it in gear with out the enging running and I can't move the Rear wheel , rear wheel moves fine in Neutral but not when it gear with the lever pulled in, I have a good 10-12mm travel in the mahura pin.... so what the F8cks up now ????????????????????????????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's going to be hard to tell with the bike on the stand cold because the cold oil wont run between the clutch plates. When cold I cant even push my WR when it's in gear with the clutch in, it will click into gear with only a little jump after about a minute warmup within five minutes it's fine.

Try starting the bike and running it as if you were going to check your oil, then pull the clutch and pop it into gear. Even then the rear wheel may spin a little but you should be able to stop it with your foot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmm, I never had a prob with mine except a bit of leakage on the servo at first. I just followed the instructions as per and it has performed flawlessly ever since. If you cannot troubleshoot and resolve the prob I recommend bringing it in to a shop. This clutch is awesome and I will never go back to a cable again! :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the magura sys with an ASV lever and the adjustibility for the lever reach is great and have had no problems in the 5 yrs its been on my bike , I should get a bleed kit and change out the fluid. Its one of my favorite upgrades

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0