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2000YZ426dude

perferred oil to use

10 posts in this topic

hey guys i just recently bought a 00 YZ426 and so far it's going pretty good..i'm new to the forum so anyways my question was ... since probably gonna be doing a oil change on this soon was woundering what would the best brand of oil to use for it.. took it into the shop and did a service on it and had them replace the fork seals they said they like using spectro oil...but i don't plan on taking it in everytime to do the oil change would rather do it my self...so thats why i was woundering if spectro would be best to use or what? :cry: ...

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I use Yamalube 20w40 in summer. 10w40 in winter. I figure if Yamaha built the bike, they would now what should go in it. It is also what they recommend in the owners manual. :cry:

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Congrats on your recent acquisition! This topic has been discussed before, many times, and I think you'll get as many different answers as you get replies. Oil choice is a personal opinion. Just make sure the oil you choose has the correct properties as per your owner's manual. And, yes, do it yourself....OFTEN. These bikes will love you for changing the oil frequently.

Have fun, and roost on!!!

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I use Yamalube 20w40 in summer. 10w40 in winter. I figure if Yamaha built the bike, they would now what should go in it. It is also what they recommend in the owners manual. :cry:

Actually, YamaLube 4 doesn't meet Yamaha's own specs for the YZ426. They originally recommended an SG oil, and now have adopted the JASO MA grade, which is the equivalent. YamaLube 4, like so many other U.S. marketed oils for road bikes, has been "upgraded" to an SJ/SL, or was last I saw it. (Honda's GN 4 has been reformulated as an MA recently) These oils have had the sulfur and zinc phosphate wear reducing additives replaced with molybdenum compounds, which are both less effective, and sometimes unfriendly to clutches. Some TT'ers have reported "fixing" a clutch drag problem by switching away from YamaLube.

Look for oils that carry an API SG or SH, a JASO MA (NOT MB), or a 'C' graded oil like Shell Rotella, which is a commercial fleet oil. If you look far enough down the label, you'll probably find that these are also graded SG or SH. A 5,10, or 20w-40 is heavy enough for everything short of 114 degree outdoor temps.

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Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40. Commercially rated full synthetic. Costs half of what most full synthetics cost, and works better, due to it's comercial rating. "C" oils contain more detergents and stronger oil molecules, so the oil will remove/prevent varnish buildup much better than "S" rated oil, as well as hold up longer under extreme stress. Fully synthetic oils also offer stronger molecules, which makes the oil last even longer. I run it in everything I own.

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