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hedgehorn

xr 650 stator rewind

16 posts in this topic

I am in the process of dualsporting my BRP I got the tires and BD kit on it but as many others have stated the headlight preformance leaves alot to be desired. I have read the web page on rewinding the stator and there is a link on there to mouser electronics but the part # listed in the article has been disco'd I am wondering if any of you have rewound your stator and what magnet wire you used there are several types of insulation for different heat ratings as well as the enviroment they are placed in. I need a link to where to buy the proper wire to do this job. Any help would be greatly apreciated. Thanks in advance, H-2 :cry:

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High temperature heavy-insulated 18-gauge magnet wire. If you're green on how to get this stuff, it's easy. Just call Allied Electronics at (800) 433-5700 and request part number 214-3574. A 1-lb spool should cost $10 and will wind around 3 to 5 bikes. Ask for equivalent wire in other brands if they quote you high. :cry:

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I got my stuff from McMaster-Carr. High temp 18 awg magnet wire and the 3M epoxy for around $30. Be forewarned that the epoxy is terrible to work with. It has a working time of 90 minutes and doesnt harden 100% for something like 7 days. Keeping it warm once it sets up will make it cure faster, though.

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There is the "Stators" folder at the Yahoo XR650R group that gives several

winding configurations you can choose from. Personally I like the #18 wire

three deep over all 10 poles - it is the easiest to wind (winding can be tedious

and hard on the fingers) and it gives a nice solid output.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/XR650R/files/Stators/

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To wind ten poles, you need to remove the stock #20 headlight wire from the existing 4 poles. You leave the ignition poles (with the fine wire covered in some sort of epoxied tape) alone.

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do you wind forward then aft or keep winding forward in the same direction? or do you wind forward and then change direction on the next pole? it looks easy on the web pages but do you keep the same strand of wire going from start to finish ? please I am wondering if you stripped the stock winding to keep it in sequince or to eliminate the splices? thanks in advance H-2 :cry:

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For how much it hurt my fingers to do 6 poles, I would just buy a premade stator next time.

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For how much it hurt my fingers to do 6 poles, I would just buy a premade stator next time.

Yes, I'd recommend that to anyone who doesn't have the time, patience or whatever as well. That is also why I recommend doing the 3 deep of 10 poles of #18 on the 400/600/650R - it involves the least amount of winding and delivers the most bang for the effort involved.

The downside of pre-made stators is that you probably are limited to buying whatever winding configuration they have available. Most rewound stators for the bigger XRs are dual output and I didn't really want that anyways.

The stock wire is removed because it is too small. It is #20 and not #18 and so you loose too much power because the small wire has a higher resistance. Kind of like comparing a garden hose to a fire hose (Ok maybe not that extreme, but you get the idea).

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I rewound my stator using 18 awg wire. Because I followed the instructions I found on one of the web sites I didn't get as much power as I wanted. I can run around 90 watts total. If I run a 85 watt Piaa it is bright all the time. If I go with my twin set up with 55 and 35 watt the lights are a little dim at idle.

The factory windings are 75 turns @ 20 awg wire. I went with 55 turns @ 18 awg on all 10 posts. I didn't like the idea of mixing the two coil types. Now that I look back I could have put 60+ turns each just by filling up the last row. Just by doing the math with all things being equal this would double your output over the stock stator.

What I did is bolt the stator to a piece of wood after I stripped the stock coils. This made it easy to wind the poles. The hardest parts of the rewind was fitting the stator back on the cover. Do yourself a favor and take some pictures up close how the wires are routed off the stator before you take it apart. :cry: It wasn't that hard but I didn't pay close enough attention to the wire routine.

I replace my voltage regulator with a higher output one from BD just in case.

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Yes.........

I'm the creator of the stator page many of you have used to do this at The Pig Pen. I just posted, today, some more info from the Yahoo! group at xr650r.us/tech/ .

After reading this thread, I'm thinking that a rewinf and rework of the info I put on the web is well beyond due.

Coming soon to a Pig Pen near you!

E

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guys just save yourselves all that hassle, and send it to BD for a professional re-wind!!!! I did it... and couldn't be happier with their work!!! they also give good instructions on how to install it, and a photo of the inside of your cover, which must be ground away a little bit with a dremmel or something of the sort to make it fit back in with the extra windings on there. It does have a dual output, for an accessory... it is dim at idle, but just off idle it is super brite, 100wAtt halogen.... its mega brite!

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I rewound my stator using 18 awg wire. Because I followed the instructions I found on one of the web sites I didn't get as much power as I wanted. I can run around 90 watts total. If I run a 85 watt Piaa it is bright all the time. If I go with my twin set up with 55 and 35 watt the lights are a little dim at idle.

The factory windings are 75 turns @ 20 awg wire. I went with 55 turns @ 18 awg on all 10 posts. I didn't like the idea of mixing the two coil types. Now that I look back I could have put 60+ turns each just by filling up the last row. Just by doing the math with all things being equal this would double your output over the stock stator.

What I did is bolt the stator to a piece of wood after I stripped the stock coils. This made it easy to wind the poles. The hardest parts of the rewind was fitting the stator back on the cover. Do yourself a favor and take some pictures up close how the wires are routed off the stator before you take it apart. :cry: It wasn't that hard but I didn't pay close enough attention to the wire routine.

I replace my voltage regulator with a higher output one from BD just in case.

If you went with 55 turns on all 10 poles, and this is still a single output stator (one piece of wire from start to finish then you have way WAY way too many turns. What this means is that your stator has shifted the balance towards generating higher voltages but only capable of lower currents. You need to get the sweet spot where you just have enough voltage at idle; this will be around 300 to 330 turns.

No harm in doing what you've done - it is still better than stock, but it isn't the most efficient solution. When I was experimenting I too built one with mega turns. It was six deep over all 10 poles of #18 for a total of 600 to 650 turns. Output was not impressive, maybe 80W, but the voltage at idle was way better than stock. I then took the same exact stator and split it in the middle (without unwinding it) and put the two groups of 5 poles in parallel - meaning that the effective number of turns was now half (300 to 325) but the DC resistance was also half as well. Output was drastically increased, as I put a 150W king hell bulb across the stator and it would have cooked it if I brought the revs up.

But the parallel wind is still a pain in the butt, as most don't need all that power. I have the 3 deep of #18 on 10 poles in a 400 (same stator core) and it runs a 90/100 H4 at full brightness even at idle (using stock AC regulator, so no DC rectification losses). Max output of this setup I'd estimate at 120 to 130W (as bike runs brake and tail light and it carries them OK too.) Nice and easy to wind, and good strong output. The key is to stop when you get to the top of the 3rd wrap and transition back to the bottom in about 1/2 a wrap or so before going to the next pole. It is easy to think that you will just add a couple extra turns on a sparse 4th layer to get back down, but these extra turns aren't needed and will just lower your maximum output in the end.

I used three 4" 1/4-20 bolts and six nuts through the stator mounting holes to give it a handle when gluing them. When wrapping them, I found a set of those rubber coated gloves ("grippers") made it easier on the fingers.

:cry:

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