cleaning your renthaul gold ring chain ? and some 03 450 Questions

What should I use to clean my gold ring chain with without damiging it?

My GYTR muflers welded seam on the side split in half should I send it to yamaha fix it or what?

Is bakfiring and poping (is it the same thing) just a litle ajustment or is it timing?

Can you port and polish a 4 stroke ? if so who will do it?

what is the best performance part I can do to my 03 450?

:cry::cry:

I just wash the chain with Simple Green along with the rest of the bike. If you use the right chain lube, it will come out looking near new this way. I use Maxima's Synthetic Chain Guard, which I find is excellent for this because it does not attract a lot of grit, and isn't at all gooey once it dries for about 4 hours, and SG takes it off easily. Remember that the chains pins are inside the O-rings, so any chain lube you use is only to reduce wear on the outer sealing edge of the rings, slick up the outer rollers, and prevent rust. Some don't use chain lube at all, but prefer WD40, etc. Keep the pressure washer away from the chain, as it can drive water in past the O-rings.

On the pipe, it depends on what Yamaha is willing to do for you, and then on what it's made of. You might have to look up a competent TIG welder, or just replace it.

If you are talking about popping and or backfiring out of the exhaust, ther are 2 principal causes. One is an air leak in the exhaust, usually at the midpipe clamp or slip joint. It can also leak at the header. Since your split in the muffler is the outer can, that's probably not the source of the problem.

The other cause of popping in the exhaust is lean idle mixture. If you don't find a leak, tweak your fuel screw richer a quarter turn or so, and see what happens.

You can do port work on a 4-stroke, but remember that the YZF ports are very good as they are. Typically, in a 2-stroke, the port timing is altered when thisis done, In a 4-stroke, that's the job of the camshafts, so the sole function of porting a 4-stroke is to improve air flow through the ports. Unless used in conjunction with other modifications, don't expect much in the way of big power gains by doing this.

If the bike is entirely stock, I recommend adding from 4 to 6 ounces of flywheel weight using either the Dr.D or GYT-R flywheels t make the power more usable, and a good exhaust system. I like the FMF Ti4 on mine a lot. The effect of these two things together will give you a wider, smoother power curve, with maybe 1 more horsepower on top. After that, stop worrying about making it faster (you won't need it) and have the suspension done, including the right springs for your weight, and some kind of sub tank system.

That's what I think.

:cry:

I use just wd-40 on o-ring chains. Traditional chain lube is a waste on o-ring chains. Non o-ring chains do need lube (and often) to last.

After each ride, I wash down the bike, dry the bike, then lube the chain with WD-40.

On WD-40 it eats rubber :cry: spray some on a balloon bang! find a lube at won't pop that balloon :cry: Go with some stage 2 hot cams :cry: The popping i will go with lean cuz it's getting cold out put a 45 pilot jet in there :cry:

hey thanx for all of the advice yeah the poping is happining with the stock pipe on it so Ill try that. same with the synthetic chain lube I was using chain wax before. I got a guy to weld the pipe for me so that will be sweet thanx :cry:

hey I also hade the suspension done by pre-action and its sweet and also I put a four ounce gytr flywheel weight in that helps a lot.

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