more on trail tech magnet mounting

So is there a reason why none of the previous posts about the mounting situation mention using the magnet that replaces a rotor bolt? Is this a new feature? I would prefer to use this method rather than the jb-weld idea. Thanks in advance

I'm not totally sure what your question is I can tell you what I did. I used the rotor bolt with loc-tite. Didn't use JB Weld.....

I've put about 100 miles on it so far and havent had any problems.

Thanks... glad to hear it worked out. The jb-weld is apparently the method used to secure the small magnet in one of the rotor slots if you don't use the magnetic bolt. I had never seen anyone mention using the bolt instead. Seems like a much better way to go. Thanks again.

Not postive, but I think that the rotor mounting bolt/magnet only works on Pre-01 bikes.

01 and newer have a "floating" rotor, and the rotor mounting bolt it not an option.

I just switched from a 98 to an 01, and found this out.

I had to JB Weld my magnet on to the new rotor.

:cry:

Not postive, but I think that the rotor mounting bolt/magnet only works on Pre-01 bikes.

01 and newer have a "floating" rotor, and the rotor mounting bolt it not an option.

I just switched from a 98 to an 01, and found this out.

I had to JB Weld my magnet on to the new rotor.

:cry:

Like I mentioned, I've got an '04 and the rotor mounting bolt worked without issues.

I used the mag bolt on my 03 WR450.....works great.

I used the mag bolt on my 03 WR450.....works great.

and

Like I mentioned, I've got an '04 and the rotor mounting bolt worked without issues.

Hummm....?

I guess I am going to have to take another look. (Just looked at my 426, as I rode it to work today, and I don't see how the rotor bolt that I have on my 400 will work. Will look at both tonight, side by side, to see what the difference is. I *know* the '98 rotor is not a floater, and I seem to think that made some kind of difference.)

Maybe it is just a different mounting bolt between the two that I need?

:cry:

Now, I'm curious. Let us know what you find...

My old WR426f, I installed a trial tech and used the bolt, removed it and swapped it over to my new WR450 no problem. Its a counter sunk bolt and I think its 6 or 8 mm.

The mag bolt replaces the bolts that secure the inner part of the disc to the hub, right? So it should make no difference if you have afloating disc, cos it it the outer part of the disc that floats not the inner part??

Well that's my take on it!

I get 2 demerits!

I was out in the garage last night, changed air filter, swapped out the WR rear fender for a YZ one, different side panels, and a different front fender, and I FORGOT TO COMPARE THE DAMNED ROTORS!

Sorry. Won't forget tonight.

:0

What's up with updating plastics? Is this a yearly ritual? I havent had my bike long enough to have to do this. Plastic is so cheap I guess it doesnt hurt to update it if it's cracked and what not. Just curious.

You're forgiven for over looking the rotors. I was supposed to snap some pictures for Top last night and ran out of time. :cry:

What's up with updating plastics?

Actually, it was the other way around. I have two sets of plastic.

One is good, with sponsor stickers and stuff, the other set is beat to a pulp.

I was taking off the good stuff, and putting on the beater stuff.

Going to hound the trails with the Boyz this weekend, and my odds of sampling the dirt are good.

:cry:

I should get some beater plastics for dirt and save my good ones for the street. I guess I'll just keep what I have until it breaks then I'll have a legit reason.

I used the stock mounting for my trailtech works great!

I used the stock mounting for my trailtech works great!

Same here. The billet case mount looks like it might be my next move...$50 is steep but I guess it's worth it. :cry:

Well, I finally found time to mount my TT on Friday. Used the rotor bolt and it works perfect. I even got a nice surprise... It seems as though the previous owner had one as I went to drill the caliper mount and the hole was already there in the perfect spot! The whole thing took 10 minutes! Work well on the trail yesterday, now I just have to calibrate for exact speed. Thanks to all for your input. :cry:

I had this problem when I switched bikes to one that had the floating disc. The problem is that the "rivets" that float the disc are magnetic and cause a false trigger on the pickup. Trailtech has since relocated the sensor position to avoid this. You can do the same thing with the old pickup by relocating it a little to avoid the rivets.

my trail tech starts screwing up and not display correct mph once I hit over 80 mph

my wr has the rotor bolt on the disc and seems to work fine

p.s its a trial tec :cry:

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