radiator cap

i've seen people changing their stock cap to a 1.6 kg and would like to find out where to get one? something about a kx 250 cap i beleive. the reason is while working on my shock i took the overflow tank off laid it down and the dog thought it was a chew toy well i didn't find it till after it had several tooth holes (luckily it was non-toxic engine ice)so i'm just gonna try without the tank,and the stronger cap would be a little insurance. anyone ever hear of this stuff www.two2cool.com ?

My dad ran some stuff like that in his truck and it took a good 10 degrees off the coolant temp in triple digit weather. I dont know if it was that exact brand though.

My dad ran some stuff like that in his truck and it took a good 10 degrees off the coolant temp in triple digit weather. I dont know if it was that exact brand though.

I'd be a little surprised if the radiator cap alone made the truck run cooler. I believe the higher pressure cap just raises the boiling point of the coolant. Maybe there's hot spots in an engine that boil coolant when the rest of the coolant remains liquid?

i believe he meant the oil additive, the cap would just be an insurance thing i run some very tight stuff and an occasional harescrambles and while the stronger cap would raise the boiling point the additive might keep it from ever getting there. :cry:

I use a cap from a KX500. It's rated at 1.6 vice the 1.1 from the factory. Not sure what the measurement is of, but I imagine it's 1.6 atmospheres (1.6 times 14.7 psi)....

Anyway, I've used it for over 4 years with no problems, and have only lost coolant going up to 13,000 feet in Colorado...kind of expected that!!

thanx butta,any particular year kx 500? :cry:

Get the cap from Autozone or or advance auto for 6-8 bucks. Works good lasts long time...

Bonzai :cry:

well thats me a day late and a dollar short! i just ordered a kx 500 cap $30....oh well! :cry:

$30 for a KX cap??? I think I paid like 7 or 10 at the most. Sorry to steer you on that side, but it will work for you.

my dealer has been known to bend people over,but wow that was dry without a kiss!!!! i'm gonna mention this when i pick it up! :cry:

My dad ran some stuff like that in his truck and it took a good 10 degrees off the coolant temp in triple digit weather. I dont know if it was that exact brand though.

I'd be a little surprised if the radiator cap alone made the truck run cooler. I believe the higher pressure cap just raises the boiling point of the coolant. Maybe there's hot spots in an engine that boil coolant when the rest of the coolant remains liquid?

duhhhhh!!! The cap didnt make it run cooler. The liquid advertised in the link that the fellow left earlier made the truck run cooler.

I beg your pardon? But a properly functioning cap will absolutely make the bike run cooler. It is a very complex formula but the higher the pressure the thinner the fluid the better heat is disapated at the radiator core. 16 lbs seems to be about right for the YZ/WR's doing any kind of offroad racing. Anything more than that creates a bursting hazard at 20-25 lbs. Engine Ice and the like add increased boiling points which add to the cooling capability, but have nothing to do with the basic effect of heat (transfer) which is all in the radiators and the coolant cap function.

Bonzai :cry:

i'm not sure what the psi is on the 1.6 kg cap but many people are using them without bursting. my reasoning is to keep the fluid in for the short period of time that it may get that hot (hasn't overheated yet with the 1.1 kg)if it bursts i guess it was the wrong approach :cry: but i will have more piece of mind without the overflow tank and the 1.6 cap. i plan to use it in conjunction with engine ice/waterwetter 50/50(yes it works),and a new non-friction modified oil additive called two2cool.(there is an in depth thread on this stuff at the xr 250 section)so if it overheats and blows out a hose,i did all i could! :cry:

i'm not sure what the psi is on the 1.6 kg cap but many people are using them without bursting...

Wow, 1.6 is almost 23 lbs! :cry:

The 1.1 is 15.642 PSI

I just changed my coolant cuase I had to weld the radiator. I am using HP coolant 50/50 mix. Its endorsed by Honda. I couldnt find any Yamaha coolant.

I just changed my coolant cuase I had to weld the radiator. I am using HP coolant 50/50 mix. Its endorsed by Honda. I couldnt find any Yamaha coolant.

Ah, well, I've been using Toyotas long life coolant (LLC, good for 30K and contains no silicates or borates), but in 2003, Toyota came out with "super long life coolant" which is pink (sissy looking color, but its premium stuff) and its rated for 60K miles, and it comes already premixed 50/50, they dont want you using just any water. Its superior for aluminum engines and water pump life, both items I'm concerned about in my WR450F. I have to admit, my coolant in my 450 is still green, but it only has about 80 miles on it. I will change it over to red SLLC this winter. And I get a pretty good deal on it too! :cry:

The higher pressure cap will keep you from loosing coolant and make the bike run cooler, as previously stated. I have been using the 1.6 on my DRZ and WR for the past 2 years. I also use red line water wetter mixed with distiled water. I will be going to a waterless coolant next season that is sold by Zip Ty Racing. Yamaha's off road team mechanic Darrell Raines told me about this stuff at the begining of the GNCC season last year. He said that the new quads overheated all the time until they tried this stuff. Now you can let the bikes and quads sit and run and they wont overheat! Treamenous heat transfer. They are using it in all their bikes. Just my 2 cents.....

yep, the cap is workin great! is this zip-ty stuff already available? always lookin for more edge!(i already use water wetter 50/50 with engine ice) :cry: :cry: you might wanna try the two2cool stuff it seems to work well,my oil looked shockingly good after draining it last after using the 22C. might just leave it in a little longer this time! no effect on the clutch either. :cry:

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