linkage bearings

hi, I read some articles about it and am interested in aftermarket bearings and seals for linkage that could be bought separately (much cheaper than original and quite cheaper than aftermarket "made for motorcycle" products)

so, does anyone know if the linkage bearings and seals are standard sizes and could be bought in specialized stores (SKF, NSK, NTN, KOYO..)

I noticed the linkage beerings :cry: are quite wide and could easily be replaced with two narrower and in between the grease nipple could be mounted (drill, make thread, wrench nipple in, use :cry:) for easier mainteinance

that is if the outer and inner bearing diameter are standard, therefore unimaginably cheap

Look for "All balls" racing? i think, works out heaps cheaper for there kit than genuine, even get the bottom shock bearing and seals.

all i can lay my hands on is a set from pivot works ...price (swingarm (110$) and shock (60$) not included) is 120$

Ill open the linkage soon and do my own research, thnx

for comparison...pivot works set for rear wheel costs 60$, in specialized store it would cost me 20$ at the most(for 2 bearings and 2 seals)

those nice looking packings realy cost :cry:

I was able to find a few bearings locally at a bearing supply shop. Front and rear wheels were no problem. Take your old bearing in . Sometimes the numbers printed on the sides can help the people locate the correct replacemants.

It was cheaper to get the all balls set-up from any good mail order place.

The linkkage had a lot of special bearings and sleeves. Order the all balls kit and avoid banging your head against the wall. Dont even bother trying to go oem Yamaha on these. You could make payments on a new bike for the same cost!

wheel bearings (rubber sealed at side) are type 62/22 at sprocket and 60/22 at disc

linkage needle bearings (NTN)are type "20x27x30" and seals are "20 30" type

Ill let ya know if they come as standard in coming week, otherwise as you said, ordering those

so, does anyone know if the linkage bearings and seals are standard sizes and could be bought in specialized stores (SKF, NSK, NTN, KOYO..)

see

http://www.thumperfaq.com/wheel_bearings.htm

for the "commodity" bearing and seal sizes & part numbers.

I noticed the linkage beerings are quite wide and could easily be replaced with two narrower and in between the grease nipple could be mounted (drill, make thread, wrench nipple in, use for easier mainteinance

you will have to use different seals, or install the stock ones "upside down". otherwise, when you inject the grease via the zerk nipple the seals will be pushed out of their recesses and you'll have to disassemble the linkage to reseat them. a few people have found this out the hard way. seals made for use with zerks are a different design than the stock seals on your bike linkage, so that they can "burp" out excess or dirty grease without becoming unseated. the seals on the U-joints on your truck are this type.

ps: for general linkage greasing info, see

http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

thanks, useful and instructive :cry:

i found out that the linkage bearings and seals are not standard sizes, and can only be bought as an original part or OEM..

Im currently into rebuilding the "L" style linkage element, wich includes two (out of standard) 20x27x30 needle bearings and four 20 30 seals (wich would get pushed out by grease...thnx for info :cry:)

yamaha prices:

bearing 20$

seal 5$

my decision: in the "L" element, trim out of the bearing hole a very small amount of material (0,5mm or 0,049 in) to make room for standard size bearing and seal (job for the tool master)

I'll probably skip the grease nipple

Ill inform on the course of action and overall prices..reinforced with some picture material

--------------

add

given bearing sizes are in milimeters, so the numbers might feel a bit strange..20 mm inner hole, 27 mm outer shell diameter (non standard), 30 mm bearing width

inner hole with width size combination is also not standard

thats where the KTM's rule...all standard

my decision: in the "L" element, trim out of the bearing hole a very small amount of material (0,5mm or 0,049 in) to make room for standard size bearing and seal (job for the tool master)

ok, before you get crazy... the stock bearings are very high quality. amazingly, yamaha doesn't use sufficient grease on them at production time, nor does the OEM grease seem to be high grade. that said, your OEM bearings will last a VERY long time if you routinely disassemble your linkage, clean the bearings of any old grease and dirt using solvent, and then reassemble using a high quality grease.

i have >3000 trail miles [4800km] on my '01 WRF and i'm still using the OEM bearings. they look like this when they are cleaned up:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/images/swingarm8.jpg

and

http://www.thumperfaq.com/images/swingarm9.jpg

and

http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/motomisc4/IMG_0156_sm.jpg

my point is, if you take care of the bearings you will not need to replace them. just feed them good grease every six months or so and they will be happy.

http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/motomisc4/IMG_0158_sm.jpg

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

ps:

> (0,5mm or 0,049 in)

also, please check your math before turning on the mill. :cry:

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

Ive bought bearing 'kits' w/ seals from CBR Bearing. Their ads are in the back of Dirt Rider mag. They're aftermarket, but the bearings are from the top makers: NSK,FAG,SKF etc... They're inexpensive, and they know what they're selling, and can give you pointers on the repair!

original yamaha bearings are NTN ..so no higher or less quality is expected from standard size bearing from the same or some other quality manufacturer (SKF, FAG, NSK, other..)

i checked, read all your pics, articles on previous link, you could eat out of those pieces :cry: but:

1)problem is, my bearings fell apart, when opened (check again on upper NTN link)...those needle rollers were just pieces of rust (twice reused in that state), so first i do need replacement bearings and seals and than take good care for them (as previous owner didnt)

hollow axles (spacers) also dont look nice, so polishing them and maybe croming should fix em

second problem is, I cant get OEM original size replacement bearings in my country (slovenija, where am I???) unless I buy the whole set, wich is still expensive (120$) and I dont even need it whole

third problem was my math...0,5 mm ---->0,02 in :cry:

I wont go crazy into it...tomorrow the bearing and seal checkup, than locating the "peel master", calculating the costs and a bit of braining of the setup and if all sums are reasonable.. go for it, if not...hello, yamaha store, i d like to order...2 bearings, 4 seals..50$

slowly advancing, problems emerging and hopefully being solved

going for the bigger bearing (28 mm) is not possible because 20 x 28 x 30 is also not standard

could get 20 x 28 x 13 and use two of them in each hole, but the price of one-(and I'd need four) is almost as the price of original (18$-20$)

with dissapointment I left the store with imaginary big bucks flying out of my pocket

went to friends place, electrician, and after a while, he got an idea on a bearing, he used in a cutting machine, type "20 30 HK"...20 mm inner diam, 30 mm width and 26 mm outer diam, wich means I d have to reduce the hole (relay arm) for 1 mm

the 20 30 HK bearing is two separate needle lines in one housing and costs 4,5$

next step would be making the 27 mm diameter spacer, that fits the hole tightly and gradually widen the inner spacer hole (with special machinery), to match the bearing outer limit, 26 mm

seal type 26 with dust edge is not a problem to get

pictures of needed parts and hopefully progressing work and prices are to be flowing in

-----------------------------------------------------------

]http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

says tools needed to remove the swing arm and linkage...

all I need to remove to reach the linkage is sidestand (2 screws) and lower chain roller (1 screw and locknut)

wheel and swingarm can be left on the bike (if the swingarm axle bearings dont need the greasing)

I've got replacement bearings

now how in the heck do you get the swingarm bolt out?

I beat the hell out of it with a BFH and it did not budge, is there a special puller for it?

bolt, axle?

first remove rear brake pedal

I did that

the swingarm bolt is frozen, I beat the crap out of it with a big freaking hammer and it will not budge

I've mushroomed the end of the nut nicely

check if the right side hits the frame

for those who like to take matters into their own hands and say :cry: to expensive parts because they have time and will to do it their way, its my way :cry:

1) bearingless linkage

2) 0,4 mm hardened metal

3) bending it slightly with a "special tool"

4) bent metal

pictures 1-4

5) metal is inside

6) bearing is inside the metal (checking the spacing)

7) everything pulled ot, metal is bent OK, time to...

8) ...loctite metal to alloy and bearing to metal (asemble again)

pictures 5-8

9) sawing off the excess

10) one made, one to go (after a bit of brushing the sharp edges)

11)second being made

12)all done

pictures 9-12

bearing i used, cost me 5$, its "2030 HK", made by INA Germany, 2 row needle bearing and only time will tell if its to live up to a bit of jumping :cry:

take a closer look at bearing insertion already finished, spacer metal can be easily spotted

it took me a few hours and a bit of help from a friend, especially with inserting the spacer into the linkage

total cost (2 bearings, 4 seals) was a bit less than one original bearing is priced

man hours not included (hobby), metal spacer got for free

Nice job on saving money. :cry: :cry: I just buy the aftermarket bearings for a reasonably higher cost. :cry:

This goes for 99, 98 & 00 400's.

If shock gets play in bearings (uniball bearing), you can either buy original, pivot works set (or comparable..) or you can just buy one at a local store but some mod is needed, since original piece is not standard.

open link in new window

The bearing you can buy, has smaller diameter of the inner hole, so its hole fits directly on the nut(fig 19)

Original bearing hole diameter is bigger, so the parts (fig 15) fit into the hole, to make it smaller and usable for the nut.

Which means that for non original bearing fittment you have to cut the two parts (fig 15), so that they only lean onto the bearing inner surface.

Cutting them at the correct distance still makes possible to use the rubber seals (fig14), protecting the bearing.

savings?

50% on the bearings

I've made all those linkage bearing links from 2004 usable again.

Must say that it is working flawlessly till the day. :thumbsup:

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