'03 450 Exhaust Shims

Boyd,

1. What were your original shims sizes?

2. What was your clearances with the stock cam in?

3. What was your clearance with the new cam and new shims in?

ripntear

Boyd,

1. What were your original shims sizes?

2. What was your clearances with the stock cam in?

3. What was your clearance with the new cam and new shims in?

I can't remember what the size of the original shims :cry: Nor can I remember what the clearance was on the stock cam. However I can tell you that the final clearance was 0.22 left and 0.21 right.

Boyd

One problem I feel is the differences on how to take readings using feeler guages. They say you should feel drag on the guages. Is that a slight drag to where the guage will fit easily with little force between the cam lobe and the valve lifter, or should you push it in using more pressure getting the largest possible value without depressing the valve?

I was talking to a friend of mine about this and we agreed that 5 different people would get 5 different readings due to each individuals "feel" of the pressure used and drag felt.

How do you take your readings :cry:!

ripntear

That is my opinion also regarding the use of feeler gauges, however I dont think you could lift a valve with a feeler gauge (it would bend). I am able to shove quite a few different sizes through and once inserted only marginal drag is sensed. :cry:

Man, you guys should see my previous posts regarding "feel" with feeler gauges! I had like 20 different answers. My final thought was that you need a slight drag, but it should go in and out smoothly. Hard to explain, as I too could probably fit in 5 larger or smaller gauges at times! I guess the more you do it, the more accustomed you get to "feeling" the right "feel". Confused yet?

TFB is correct. You should have a resistance but not have to FORCE it in there.

If you want to have some fun, pass a shim around a few of your buds and have them use a micrometer on it and tell you what size it is. 5 people will give you at least 4 answers. All that stuff is part of the "touch" a good mechanic develops over time, that's all.

Feeler gauges should drag a little. :cry:

Feel. It is very subjective!

I probably took a dozen readings before I decided on the final clearances. It wasn't cut and dry, and I am still not convinced that I have it right. I have never been one for "Close Enough" as for I am a Woodworker also. Building Fine Furniture requires precision, but you can check your measurements using rulers, calipers and squares. There is some "Feel" involved but in a different way.

I guess If I used feeler guages regularly and could document the results of the actions taken based on my readings then I would have a better understanding of the "Feel" required. I have a good "Feeling" that I will be getting lots of practice now that I am a TT'er :cry:!

ripntear

A lot of times you will feel resistance at first but then it gets sloppy as you move it around. I look for the resistance to be felt the whole time it's in there.

It's a good method for a lot of things. :cry:

I started to say something but thought it might be best to just keep quiet :cry:!

ripntear

One problem I feel is the differences on how to take readings using feeler guages. They say you should feel drag on the guages. Is that a slight drag to where the guage will fit easily with little force between the cam lobe and the valve lifter, or should you push it in using more pressure getting the largest possible value without depressing the valve?

I was talking to a friend of mine about this and we agreed that 5 different people would get 5 different readings due to each individuals "feel" of the pressure used and drag felt.

How do you take your readings :cry:!

ripntear

I like to spray the feeler gauges with some WD40, and then they should have a just a little resistance, as if you were pulling a piece of writing paper through your thumb and index finger, gripping the paper softly...

It's hard to desribe, but you just have to grok the tool and you will instinctively know... just like being able to torque up a bolt without a torque wrench, or free pour spirits with out shortchanging the customer or the establishment... Like when you apply a bit more pressure to a Jack plane to get it to bite and take a nice long curl of timber off... or adjusting the depth of the blade... You will get it, and by the sounds of your shim saga, you are getting some practice in... :cry: :cry: :cry:

Good luck,

David

I had a buddy come over last night and check clearance. His method is to put the largest numerical value he can fit between the cam lobe and the valve cap which puts us about .020mm apart. His thought is that if the valve isn't being depressed, then what ever the amount is you can insert, is the clearance between the two. I had him try my readings and he said they felt like they would work also. We laughed :cry:!

There is one more friend that's going to come by and check it. After that, I'm probably going to average the 3 and use it to find my shim sizes.

It's crazy and I'm getting that way :cry:!

ripntear

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