New Sprocket bolts with new sprockets?

I know that the Yamaha's and KTM's require new sprocket bolts when putting on new sprockets. Is this the case with the 650R? My buddy just bought a new chain and sprocket set and I told him I'd find out.

Thanks

Maybe it is because yamaha's and KTM's run like paint shakers :cry: I have never had to purchase new bolts with sprocket changes unless one is so tight the allen head gets damaged. I've never had one come loose.

its a very good idea to replace the locking nuts. take a very close look at the heads and see if there is any wear at the sprocket.

i have had them come loose many times. even with blue loctite.

once they come loose they are toast. if they do come loose by the time youi notice it most likely you will ruin your hub as well.

the pros run Ti bolts and nuts. Yamaha, KTM, Honda...there are differences-ask any metalurgist-but for sure we are not immune to the problem...

i have had them come loose many times. even with blue loctite.

Which is where red Loctite comes in.

Titanium is cool and all, but for something needing the structural integrity of sprocket bolts, I would stick with Grade 8 steel or the metric equivalent (8.8?). Ti just isnt as strong. Steel is cheap anyway so you might as well get new ones.

I don't know if you need to replace the bolts, if they are in good shape and were never loose, then I see no reason to replace the bolts themselves.

However, if they ever do come loose, especially on a 4-stroke, it can and will ruin not only the bolts but most likely the hub also.

From what I understand, the bolts stretch and become weak. The loosening up is not because they are backing off but because the bolt has stretched. I know this has been an issue on the WR's and KTM 4-strokes but wasn't sure about the BRP.

I'll tell him to take a good look at the hardware and keep an eye on it after the first ride or two.

I've changed my sprockets twice so far and the bolts weren't "stretched". If they stretch they were not torqued down properly. Forget honda manual specs and use your leg as a guide. That's my rule of thumb for the BRP. Right leg=torque wrench.

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