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SLO_Rider

Powder Coating...

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I'm looking to get my frame power coated, what have you guys been paying? Is there anything I should watch out for or do to my frame prior to it being coated?

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There have been a few absolute horror stories on TT over the last couple of years about powdercoating YZF/WRF frames. The problem stems from the fact that most p/coaters sandblast your frame before coating. With the YZF/WRF's having oil in frame set-ups, you need to be 100% certain that your frame has NO residual sand inside it before you re-assemble, and try and start your bike. A TTer (thumpsalad I think it was) destroyed his entire engine a while back. One way to do it is make up plugs to thread into all open oil galleries. But, you still need to be very careful, as the high pressure sand being blasted at your frame can get into just about anywhere. I would look at the option of having it chemically dipped to remove the old paint, but most powdercoaters prefer the way that sandblasting provides a good key for the coating to adhere to. Shop around, hopefully you'll find a 'coater who has done bike frames before, and he'll know all the tricks. :thumbsup:

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I had my frame on my WR450 powder coated flat black. The company charged me $100. They installed plugs in all of the threaded holes and bearing races. They used a burn off oven to remove the old coating. They also told me that the oven will relieve stress points in frame. It turned out excellent and there is no trapped sand to worry about.

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you can also use aircraft stripper and a pressure washer to strip your frame,this will also save you on the price of having it coated,my price in ky is around $250 for a frame that has not been stripped.THE DISTRAUGHT POSTAL RIDER

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Yes, putting the frame in an oven at about 350-425F would essentially be tempering it, reducing residual stress in the frame. That would be one of the fringe benefits in removing paint with heat. I have a blaster and have done it as a side business in the past, and it's an absolute mess regardless of what you do. Heat sounds much safer in this application.

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This comment really would not apply to powder coating "Frames"

but remember the now defunk magazine [REV]?

and remember how nice they were after they folded they substituted [ATV Sport] instead of subscription refunds?

Well the October 2004 issue of ATV Sport has an article on powder coating 101 made easy at home. This may have been the only article I've found interesting in several issues. Basically any part that will fit in a conventional oven can be powder coated any cool color you can think of. It's easy enough to do that it probably open the door to real custom parts to set yourself apart from the rest. Seems really big in the ATV world. :thumbsup:

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Yes, putting the frame in an oven at about 350-425F would essentially be tempering it, reducing residual stress in the frame. That would be one of the fringe benefits in removing paint with heat...

I've been wondering about this since I read WR450MXMAN's post. I could see how the heat method could reduce the residual stress in the frame, but I'm wondering how straight the frame would be after it's done. If the stress is relieved when the metal is heated, it stands to reason that it's because the metal will twist back to whatever shape it wanted to. I'd think you'd want to have some sort of jig made from a fairly heavy or more heat resistant material to hold the steering head & swingarm piviot points on the frame in-line when heating it. But I could be wrong. :cry:

Perhaps a bit of twist is'nt that big of a deal? I dunno, I just started riding dirt, I've been a street guy/road racer up to this point, & I know straight frames are of significant importance in those applications. 2cents.gif

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They've all got some "twist" in them anyhow from the welding process at the molecular level, we just don't see it. I don't believe you would get any appreciable dimension changes from tempering. When I was involved in cryogenic treatment, out of thousands of pieces we worked with, nothing we ever did changed noticeably in dimension from the cold or hot side of the process, save it be 1 cast BBF 428 crankshaft. We improved the piece to the extent that it grew about .0001" and had to be reground. I'm no metallurgist, but I really think there's a bigger risk fromt he sand than the heat, and I think a temper likely would have benefit. I sure wouldn't go hotter than about 450F though.

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