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top end rebuild - need some crosshatch marks

4 posts in this topic

i was going to put in my hi-comp piston today and i realized the the cylinder has NO crosshatch marks the length of the piston travel. so i went to the hardware store and got a "glaze breaker", designed to use in cylinders. it has 3 stones and a pressure adjustment but im still afraid to use it on my cylinder.

but i need the crosshatch marks, so is this safe to use?

i plan on doing it tonight so, any help would be great. someone stop me if this is wrong... thanx

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You'll be fine with that 3 stone hone.

Put it on your drill and work it in and out, repeat if neccesary, until you begin to see microscopic crosshatching marks at roughly 30 degree angles to the cylinder bore.

I don't know if these cylinders have nickasil coatings in the cylinder, but this is still fine to perform on a cylinder with this type of coating.

As you are honing the cylinder, chock it up in a bench vise and continually spray a penetrating oil to flush the cuttings out. You shouldn't have to hone it for more than 2 to 5 minutes with a drill.

Don't ever use a china-ball hone though!!

Dirty

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...crosshatching marks at roughly 30 degree angles to the cylinder bore...

This is correct.

I don't know if these cylinders have nickasil coatings in the cylinder, but this is still fine to perform on a cylinder with this type of coating.

Yes, they do have a coating. Yes, it is still fine to use this type of a hone.

As you are honing the cylinder, chock it up in a bench vise and continually spray a penetrating oil to flush the cuttings out.

This is correct as well, but you would want to use cutting oil, not penetrating oil. But, in a bind, any lube is better than none.

You shouldn't have to hone it for more than 2 to 5 minutes with a drill.

2 TO 5 MINUTES!!!! :thumbsup: DO NOT hone it for any more than 10-20 SECONDS at a time. The last thing that you want to do is destroy your cyl.

Don't ever use a china-ball hone though!!

And why not??? :awww: Eric Gorr recomends using ONLY a ball type hone, especially for those inexperienced in honing cyl's. Actually what you should be using is a 240 grit Aluminu Oxide ball type hone that is slightly smaller than the cyl bore. If you do use a three stone spring loaded hone, set the tension as low as it will go and be VERY carefull to make sure that you dont knick the edges of the plating while inserting and removing the hone. The edges of the plating are the weakest points. Also be carefull as to not insert the hone past the hinge points of the stones, otherwise the hone will try to pull itself out of the cyl.

Another thing, after you are done honing, clean the cyl. with SOAP AND HOT WATER. Unlike solvents (brake cleaner....) the soap will do a MUCH better job at making sure that all of the metal particles are out of the cyl.

The best and easiest thing to do is to put the cyl. in the dishwasher. Then you have an extra 30 minutes to have a beer and [@#$%&*!] for a while. :devil:

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cool. thanx for the prompt response gentlemen. there are some hatch marks now, but it appears the piston was rocking a little back and forth. my rings must have been very worn. everything should be fine afterwords though.

im gonna use the hone very lightly and put her all back together. cant wait to try the high compression. :devil:

thanx guys :thumbsup:

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