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wr 450 Weight loss


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When i first got my wr 450 I was sold on the e-start. It has been really nice having it. Then my starter button wire came loose and I was too lazy to fix it for a couple of rides so I just kicked it.I don't miss the estart much but the performance gained by a lighter bike to me is way better. I have always kinda wanted a lighter bike, and stiffer suspension so tonight I pulled off the battery, and only put 1 gallon of fuel in it. It rides so much better now. Just with that it is around 18lbs lighter. Suspension is not as plush but takes jumps alot better. I think I'm going to now pull off everything. Starter, lights, odometer, etc. I will replace the odometer with a modified one off of my downhill mountain bike that also has a speedometer and is super light. I'll get some small l.e.d.'s for my tail lights, a yz front number plate

and cut two holes for some lightweight 2" round halogen or maybe H.I.D's for headlights. I think this will be alot closer to the perfect all-around bike. Does anyone know exactly how much weight will be lost by pulling everything off the WR and only running 1.3 gal of fuel so it is trimmed the same as the yz 450? I'm guessing maybe 25-30 lbs

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Thanks for the info guys. Dez613's bike is pretty sick. I think I'm gonna run with this lightweight thing and see what happens. If all else fails, or I get tired and lazy, the sweet thing is I can always go back to stock! ?

You guys will probably think this is rediculous but.....I have an idea. My buddy recently made a little smelter or whatever you call it to melt aluminum and make castings. It works awesome. I'm thinking about making molds of all the yz 450 plastic and then making fairly thin cast aluminum parts. I'm pretty sure I could make them a lot lighter than the plastic while still being strong enough

to be somewhat durable. Of course almost any crash would bend them. This would be just for me cause no one would want crap like this on their bike. The thing is though, I very rarely crash anymore, and it would take me 2 seconds to put on a new fender or whatever if I did. I would make a bunch of parts all at one time so I would have a big stash of replacement parts, plus I could easily make more. Kinda like disposable fenders and shrouds, etc. I never realized how heavy the plastic is on our bikes. Just the rear yz fender alone is like 2lbs!I think I could take another 5-7 lbs of the bike maybe. I think that would be cool to have a bike with no plastic, except for the tank. I do alot of fabricating on off road 4x4's and also custom mountain bike stuff so doing all this would be pretty easy I think. Just a few days of screwing around building crap. I know I'm nuts, but I love building stuff, even if it always doesn't work out.

Also. I'm thinking about making a custom air box out of sheet aluminum. It would weigh almost nothing and you would save a few pounds there. And for the most part it is tucked out of harms way. Hmmmm.... I have too much spare time on my hands.

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Do you know how much the yz air box weighs? If it is light enough then it is probably not worth messing with an aluminum one. But, tin foil ? yeah right! :devil:

All though It would be worth saving $40 bucks. I could weld one up out of aluminum in about 20 min. for only a couple bucks.

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the feller from lightspeed cf said the wr is 4 lbs and the yz is 2 lbs thats why he doesn't make one, can't get it much lighter. i was jokin about the tin foil ? i've seen an aluminum airbox for the yz somewhere but can't remember! i'd say for $40 bucks no fuss no muss go stock yz thats what i'm doing but it looks like i'm gonna have to change side panels? any yz guys?does your side # panels screw into the airbox,instead of the subframe? looks like they do. :devil:

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I know you were jokin' bout tin foil. :devil: I was actually considering it though ( j/k) If the yz box is 2lbs, I'm pretty sure i can make an aluminum one that is 1/2 - 3/4 lb using really thin sheet aluminum ( thicker than tin foil though ? ).That would save maybe another 1 1/2 lbs. It all adds up real quick. I mean, how thick does an air box need to be? All it does is keep dirt off the filter right?

I guess it needs to also support half the weight of the carburetor though. Easy enough. For some people it would not be worth the hassle. But me, I love fabricating. If I go a week without hacking , building, or modifying something I go nuts!!!! I think I need to see a shrink. :awww: When I get around to it I'll take some pictures. Thanks for the info

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Utah. About 30 miles south of Salt Lake city. Provo sucks but it's a really good location. Pretty much only a few hours drive from anywhere cool. Moab, Vegas, grand canyon,etc. I'm thinkin that i could dangle a small brace from the frame to help support the carburetor's weight, and take some of the load off the airbox. ??

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What about securing the backside of the carb with a light weight brace and then getting rid of the airbox. Connect the filter to the carb and then make a thin tube cage that mimicks the size and shape of the airbox. Then cover the cage with pantyhose. Your air filter would stay cleaner a lot longer with no open holes for dust to enter. And you would get rid of most of the airbox weight. I am just wondering like you said, if it would flow enough. I'm pretty sure that the surface area of the pantyhose would

flow more than the airbox would, even with holes drilled in it.hmmmm.... Maybe even a HP increase? ?

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