HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
YZ_Abuser

Juice clutch?

9 posts in this topic

Who is actually using the Hebo or Magura? Does it give enough throw to allow starting the bike in gear? The easier the pull, the shorter the throw.

My 250F is really finicky about have next to zero freeplay when starting in gear. If it's not adjusted just right it doesn't like starting in gear. Put a click or two on the adjuster and it will fire right up.

I've thought about going juice to a juice clutch, but have to make sure the bike will still start easily in gear. If i just MXed it'd be no problem. But the dead engine starts in XC/HS can make or break you.

Thanks for any info and sorry about the cross posts.

------------------

YZ A

'96 YZ 125

'99 YZ 250

'01 YZ250F

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

YZ-A, Im running a Hebo unit on my WR426. I can't recommend it enough. I have heard that the pull on the Hebo is the lightest available, I dont know this to be true but I have heard lots of guys stating this. I bought it for $175.00 from erider when they were having a sale on them. Now to answer your question it does pull enough to start the bike in gear, I do it all the time. The clutch can be pulled in with one finger to fully engage it, I also dont miss lubing the clutch cable. If you decide to go with a Hebo unit I think you'll love it. The stock pull of the 01 isnt all that bad but the juice clutch is much nicer. Good luck

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I to have a HEBO Clutch and love it. Starts in gera no problems. Go to www.erider.com thats where most of us got ours. If you want to see pictures go to archives and look for Hebo Clutch Mike put pictures of his on it. Beware of one possible problem, Cover the site glass with something. I broke mine :) on a ride at Stoneyford, rock got past my hand gaurds. When the oil leaks out the clutch pull is real easy and you don't stop. A freind machined me a nice aluminuim plug. Also if you go ridding for a weekend take the old lever,perch and cable with you for a spare. Don't forget the cable :D good Luck Ride Safe and Ride Often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems everyone loves their clutch, no matter the brand. The next question is who has the best prices on the Hebo and Magura juice clutches? What did it cost you guys?

Thanks again.

Unkle Moose

I used to ride Stoneyford when I was stationed in Cali. Now I'm in OK. Stoneyford is still my all time favorite riding area! Thanks for the warning about the HEBO unit.

------------------

YZ A

'96 YZ 125

'99 YZ 250

'01 YZ250F

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The link to ERider is www.erider.ws

Their price is $189, so the sale only saved $14. I don't feel as bad about missing it now. :)

------------------

YZ A

'96 YZ 125

'99 YZ 250

'01 YZ250F

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i've got the magura. mechanically it is brilliant, but all the paint fell off the mastercylinder!

taffy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, the Hebo allows to start the bike in first no problem. Nice light feel, consistent action-two finger clutch now

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the Magura Hymec clutch on my WR400. It works awesome, but there are some poor aspects to the slave cylinder design. First, the slave cylinder has to rock on a flat surface (the stock cable bracket) as the clutch is actuated. I made a cone shaped nylon washer so it would save the cylinder from wear. Second, the nipple on the end of the cylinder rod that pulls on the clutch arm is threaded on with tiny threads on a tiny rod. The threads caused a stress concentration and eventually broke from the slight side loading that occurs as the pin in the clutch arm is forced to rotate. I was on a trail when it happened. I repaired the rod by brazing a new nipple on. It's worked fine for over a year now. I would buy a unit with a better slave cylinder setup (ball and socket joints or pivot pins) if I had to do it again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0