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Lights???

By JackAttack,
in XR600R & XR650R/L

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JackAttack

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2003 XR650R

Both my headlight and my taillight no longer work. The bike still runs great. So I have no reason to believe at this time that there is a problem at the stator. I have checked the filiments in both bulbs and they are OK. I have been running the bike with just a number plate on the front and every once in a while throwing the headlight on for night rides.

Is it possible that I may have screwed up the voltage reg. and this is causing the failure?

Where is the voltage reg. located? Is it the unit attached to the top of the airbox with two wires running into it?(Heat sink looking)

I'm not aware of any fuses that may have blown.

Thanks for any help. ?

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Grand Master

JohnnyAirtime

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There is a fuse... (on a dual purpose bike! I think yours is stock as you didn't mention it. If so, ignore me) ?

Mine was located under my seat. I moved my "BajaDesigns" battery and regulator thing to the right radiator area (making access to the battery leads for charging easier as well as accessing the fuse)... and now can access my fuse by just looking. As it's zip tied to my radiator scoop. Very sano.

So check the fuse! There is one... and it will kill the lights if it's blown.

You may have shorted the leads when the bike was in "moto" mode... and when you reinstalled them, the blown fuse is the culprit. (just my idea).

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qadsan

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Is it possible to bypass the regulator without frying the bulbs...........as long as I don't rev it?

No. Once you take the regulator out of the circuit, the voltage will be too high even at idle and will fry the bulb before you can say boo. Leave the inputs connected to the regulator from the stator and disconnect the regulator's outputs. Measure the output to make sure you get ~12 VAC. If you're getting a good input and no output, then your regulator is the problem. If you're getting a good input and a good output, but the output goes to zero when you connect the outputs to your wiring harness, then you've likely got a shorted wire somewhere.

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JetPilot

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Just make sure you set your meter to read VOLTS !!! If you set it to read AMPS you will short out whatever you connect it to ? In the case of you water heater, there is enough current there to melt leads, meters, and unsuspecting hands :devil:

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JackAttack

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Gentlemen,

Thanks for the replies. I believe I have a bad voltage reg. Could the cause of this been runnin the bike without the headlight hooked up?

Also, after further investigation it seems that the headlight was on, just very, very dim(filiment barely turned orange). Is this a symptom of a bad voltage reg?

Since I had it apart I decided to rewind my stator adding 40 turns of 18g wire to the remaining posts(per Pig Pen directions). I am ready to put it back together to test it, but I need a new voltage reg. My instructions say to upgrade to a "Tympanium" 14 volt unit. Where would I purchase one of these? Should I go to Radio Shack? Will they know what the hell I'm talking about? :devil:

Only thing I know for sure is the dude at Radio Shack will ask me for my phone # and address no matter what I buy. ?

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thumpasaurus

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2003 XR650R

Both my headlight and my taillight no longer work. The bike still runs great. So I have no reason to believe at this time that there is a problem at the stator.

I think the ignition windings and lighting windings are separate so you could still have stator problems.

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qadsan

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Check out Ricky Stator for an AC regulator ($19).

http://www.rickystator.com/pages/AC_Voltage_Regulator.html

They also a regulator/rectifier if you want DC power, but it's significantly more expensive.

http://www.rickystator.com/pages/Single_Phase_Rectifier_Regulator.html

Or you can find a similar regulator / rectifier on eBay for $25 that should work...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26353&item=3688566852&rd=1

What ever power the light bulbs don't consume, the regulator has to deal with. If you remove the bulbs from the circuit (or if they burn out), then the regulator will be trying to shed the full load and it will be more stressed as opposed to if there were a bulb in the circuit consuming some power. Unless you get the stock regulator which is plug'n'play, you'll have to wire in the new regulator or put some matching connectors on it, etc.

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qadsan

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I think the ignition windings and lighting windings are separate so you could still have stator problems.

That's absolutely correct. There are two ignition poles which are wound with very fine wire. The rest of the poles are for lighting and are wound with thicker wire. If this problem started immedaitely 'after' the stator was wound, then I'd be inclined to believe something is wrong with the way the stator was wound (i.e. not alternating winding directions between adjacent poles or a shorted winding, etc).

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JackAttack

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I think the ignition windings and lighting windings are separate so you could still have stator problems.

That's absolutely correct. There are two ignition poles which are wound with very fine wire. The rest of the poles are for lighting and are wound with thicker wire. If this problem started immedaitely 'after' the stator was wound, then I'd be inclined to believe something is wrong with the way the stator was wound (i.e. not alternating winding directions between adjacent poles or a shorted winding, etc).

The problem with the lights was occuring before I touched the stator. I checked continuity with all the wires that run the lights and they are fine. I've never had the fly-wheel cover off and the ignition coils are still firing, so I ruled out the stator. Therefore it must be the Voltage reg.................right?

?

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thumpasaurus

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I think the ignition windings and lighting windings are separate so you could still have stator problems.

That's absolutely correct. There are two ignition poles which are wound with very fine wire. The rest of the poles are for lighting and are wound with thicker wire. If this problem started immedaitely 'after' the stator was wound, then I'd be inclined to believe something is wrong with the way the stator was wound (i.e. not alternating winding directions between adjacent poles or a shorted winding, etc).

The problem with the lights was occuring before I touched the stator. I checked continuity with all the wires that run the lights and they are fine. I've never had the fly-wheel cover off and the ignition coils are still firing, so I ruled out the stator. Therefore it must be the Voltage reg.................right?

:devil:

check the ac voltage coming from the stator on all leads pre regulator/rect then work your way down stream. Oh yeah, meter is smoked.. hmm, that makes it tough. ? All right, touch your tongue to each lead.. :awww:

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JackAttack

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All right, touch your tongue to each lead..?

?

I thought about it, but I don't know what 12 Volts tastes like, and I'm not sure I want to.?

Well, I went to my buddies house that has the same bike and pulled his Voltage reg. and put it in my bike. Still no lights! Now I can rule out the regulater being bad. Good thing, because I was quoted $95 over the phone for a new one. :awww:

GOOD NEWS! :D

When I went to put mine back in the bike I found a wire that was shorting out............and the lights are back on.?

It appears that my stator rewind is also working and it really lit up the bulb(35W). However I hooked up my twin 50W bulb light set-up and it is not as bright as I wanted. I need to put the seat back on and take it around the hood for a more positive test. :devil:

Does anyone know if 40 turns per post with 18G wire will drive double 50W bulbs, or did I screw up the stator wiring? ?

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