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ColoradoJim

frame filter

13 posts in this topic

I just attempted my first oil change .everything went fine until I tried to remove the frame filter nut It would not budge. It looks like it is not meant to come off, but the manual sure say it does. Do you have suggestions or advice.. Thanks

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Originally posted by ColoradoJim:

I just attempted my first oil change .everything went fine until I tried to remove the frame filter nut It would not budge. It looks like it is not meant to come off, but the manual sure say it does. Do you have suggestions or advice.. Thanks

HEAT...Try applying heat to the female portion of the nut, not the male part this will also break away any paint that would be contibuting to you saying #^@!

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Just changed my friday. I used a big adjustable wrench and PULLED!! Just dont round off an edge, and when you put it on it doesn't have to be that tight.

696

------------------

2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed

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I would be hesitant to use heat in this application, considering the oil on the other side of the fitting. I understand the flash point of motor oil is higher than that of gasoline, but why push it. I spun mine off with a socket and 18" torque wrench.

I DO use heat to remove stuck nuts/bolts in many other applications. :)

------------------

'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, forked over by Pro-Action (and then fixed by me), OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat, carb mods by Jim Dean, Andy in OZ, & Sir "Taffy" from Jolly Old England, AMA, NESC, and I use MOBIL 1 Oil, with ZERO problems.

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I checked this screen after the first 50 miles and it was clean. After 2,500 miles or so I haven't looked at it. Should I check it out again? Has anyone found debris in the screen? Yes it is a bitch to get off!

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I use a socket and long torque wrench and comes right off. Was very tight the first time. Never have found any debris in that screen so I only check it now and then.

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HI JIM

I USED A 24MM RING SPANNER , BUT GRANTED IT'S

REALLY TIGHT ( DONT USE HEAT ). DIDN'T FIND

ANY DEBRIS ON MY SCRREN AT ALL , SO I'LL

ONLY DO IT YEARLY . TO GET THE SCREEN OUT I FOUND IT NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE WHOLE OIL PIPE AND HOSE CONNECTED TO THE SCREEN (OTHERWISE THINGS GET A BIT TRICKY TRYING TO FLEX THE RUBBER HOSE ).

IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO THIS MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LOSE THE LOCATING DOWL AND THE O RING, WHERE

THE PIPE MEETS THE CASING.

HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU OUT.

JOHN

HAMPSHIRE , ENGLAND

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Talked with my dealer,he said after checking the screen several times there was never anything in there!! Also he said that after coming off a few times they will start to leak!!!!! SO DONT #*%# WITH IT!!! bETTER OFF LEFT ALONE I suppose.Over and out..

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That seems to be the consensus on the 250 side too. I checked mine a week ago and nothing. Clean even after I swamped the thing and the oil filter screen tore from the body due to mud clogging it. I don't think I will bother with it again.

- Sean

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I think I have more trouble pulling the oil hose off than getting the screen out. I looked at mine after break in, then just recently after ~1500 miles of offroad abuse, and never saw anything in there. I don't think I'll be messing with it again.

------------------

Chris

99WR400F

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