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machoman_#618

Oil question on a 03 450f

10 posts in this topic

I just a 03 450f today without the manual. I would like to know proper amount to put in it. Also if someone has a extra manual or knows where to get one cheap let me know. Did I tell ya I only payed..........2500.00 for it. Still has the stock tires and chain,lol. Guy said he raced about 14 moto's on it.It looks awesome!!!!! Never been in the woods either. :thumbsup:

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A 450 takes about 1.2-1.4 liters with a filter change. Be certain to drain both the crankcase and the frame/oil tank. Inspecting the oil screen in the feed line at the frame is necessary only about once every 3-4 oil changes, or if something bad happens. When filling, look under the oil filler, and you will see a small metal piece screwed to the crankcase that resembles a timing pointer, or something. I find that filling the crankcase to the point that the oil just contacts this about right.

On the filter: I do not use the allen head to drain the cavity for 2 reasons; it doesn't work very well, and it contributes to the degradation of the threads on the rather soft bolt, which will then damage the threads in the case. Instead, I lay the bike down, with the bars on a stand, and remove all three bolts after first loosening them all. Drain the residual oil from the cavity by standing the bike back up. Be sure that the inner seal (if using a stock type filter) does not remain stuck in the filter bore. Install the filter and cover and run in all 3 bolts to the point of being just seated before tightening them evenly (a generally good practice anyway)

You should use (according to Yamaha and other manufacturers of high performance 4 strokes) an oil with a JASO grade of MA, or API SG. Golden Spectra 4 is one such oil. If you have an engine with its oil supply seperate from its clutch, as with the CRFs, use an MB in the engine and an MA in the transmission.

Oils graded API SJ or higher should not be used (even, surprisingly, Yamalube 4, it's a street oil), since they contain inferior wear reducing additives, and contain "energy saving" friction modifiers that are detrimental to your clutch.

Some on TT have reported good results using Mobil one 15w-50 with the Red Cap (no energy saving additives), but the oils still do not have the sulpher based wear reducers of an SG oil, and a 50 wt oil is too heavy to circulate fast enough at extreme engine speeds in my opinion.

One last thing. NEVER rev the engine hard when first starting after an oil change. The oil has to be picked up by the scavenge pump and returned to the tank in order for it to get even back to the feed pump, which still has to fill the filter cavity before it can get any oil to the camshaft. Have you seen the threads about wiped out cam journals in heads?

Hopefully, you didn't need all this info, but someone might.

Enjoy the bike! I love mine. :thumbsup:

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You should use (according to Yamaha and other manufacturers of high performance 4 strokes) an oil with a JASO grade of MA, or API SG. Golden Spectra 4 is one such oil.

My 04 450 manual recommends the Yamalube 4 20w-40 or an SJ (?) grade oil. Is the Yamalube really an inferior product? Anyone know an unbiased site to read up more on the oils?

Thanks.

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I've seen several posts saying that Yamalube has wear reducers in it and it isn't safe for an engine with a wet clutch and I'm sorry but that is absolute crap. I used it in my FZ1 at every oil change and it had a wet clutch in it too. My clutch never slipped or got damaged and the thing shifted great.

If you don't believe me, here's a scan of the back of one of the bottles. I didn't have a quart of the dino 20w40, but here is the back of the 10w50.

yamalube.jpg

Looks like it's safe to me.

:thumbsup:

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i have been using yamalube 20-40 non friction modified since 2001 with no problems. i am really satisfied with the oil and will continue to use it.

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Yamalube has a great rep for being quality oil from all that I have heard. Never heard one bad thing about it.

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Oils graded API SJ or higher should not be used (even, surprisingly, Yamalube 4, it's a street oil), since they contain inferior wear reducing additives, and contain "energy saving" friction modifiers that are detrimental to your clutch.

well i think this issue was covered above, and the information on yamalube 4 was corrected; so no need to go there again.

Some on TT have reported good results using Mobil one 15w-50 with the Red Cap (no energy saving additives), but the oils still do not have the sulpher based wear reducers of an SG oil

what exactly are "sulpher" [sic] based wear reducers? if you look at a virgin oil analysis report there is no mention of sulphur or sulphur compounds. in fact, i believe that sulphur is something you *don't* want in a lubricant, as it's presence can lead to the formation of sulphur dioxide and similar acidic compounds. for this reason, calcium is added to motor oil as part of the TBN package to counteract against acid compound build-up. moreover, the primary wear reduction agents are zinc and phosphorous, known in the lubrication industry by the moniker ZDDP -- not any kind of sulphur compound. so again, what exactly are "sulpher" [sic] based wear reducers?

and a 50 wt oil is too heavy to circulate fast enough at extreme engine speeds in my opinion.

the opinion of the yamaha design engineers differs, as they specify a 50wt oil in the manual (i.e., yamalube 4R is 50wt). on what are you basing your information?

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

ps, to the original poster:

lot's of information on oil changing is at

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil_change.htm

and there is a downloadable copy of the manual at

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oemmanuals.htm

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