brake line replacement

next week im getting new braded steel brakline, what is the best way to change it?

with a allen wrench and your hands

Get some QUALITY brake fluid NOT generic brand. DO NOT USE DOT 5.

Because of Yamaha 's bogus loop setup at the hub,

it would be best to disconnect your entire brake assembly from the bike. Keep the master cylinder high and your caliper low. I used a squeeze bottle w/ flexible clear hose attached to the bleed screw at the caliper. I then "pumped" the fluid in from the bottom. If you start w/ an empty master cylinder (and brakeline as well) keep on pumping fluid in until you get a level inside your master cylinder. Let your brake hang overnight to allow any residual air to float to the top. I recall reading that you should have the brake lever squeezed overnight as well...??? This might be tough if you don't have a set of bars to clamp your brake lever/master cylinder to. Maybe just letting your caliper hang off the bike w/ your lever still attached to the bar may work.

I would definitely bleed both the master cylinder and caliper as normal: pump the brakes and quickly open and close the banjo fitting at the master cylinder (I use a rag held at the banjo to collect the spewing brake fluid) and use the bleed screw at the caliper.

I do have a Fastline stainless steel line on my bike and am VERY pleased w/ the results. :)

if your just changing line its much easier to just disconnect old brakeline from caliper let fluid drain out of hose and mastercylinder.after there done draining remove otherside of line and install new line.when your finished installing and routing new line bleed brakes from bottom.when you bleed brakes from bottom fluid pushes all air out of system as it makes it way up line and into master cylinder.if you install line using this process you should have line installed and brakes bled in about 30 minutes.you can make tool to bleed brakes from bottom for under $1 [using 2ft.piece carb vent hose ,20oz. plastic soda bottle and some silicone. drill hole in cap just big enough to fit carb vent hose then shove vent hose thru hole so that about 1in. is sticking into bottom and silicone around hose.]when your ready to bleed brakes fill bottle with brake fluid and stick other end of vent hose over bleed valve.make sure cover is off master cylinder then open bleed valve and squeeze bottle.dont stop squeezing bottle till fluid has made it way up brake line and filled master cylinder.after master cylinder is full close bleed valve wait 5 minutes to let any of tiny air bubbles in fluid work there way to top.tapping brake line with screwdriver help work tiny bubbles up to mastercylinder.if you think there might still be some air in line repeat process one more time.put master cylinder cover back on and your good too go!

Hey Kevin, whats the story with DOT 5? I'm not up to speed with the ratingson the fluids.

When trying to bleed a new line, I found using a syringe and pushing fluid from the bottom up works really well. Good luck!

All you need is a piece of tubing and a el cheapo syringe, and maybe some small zip ties if you get a leak.

DOT 5 is VERY FINICKY crap to use. Your system has to be thoroughly cleaned (not just "flushed") before using it. It is NOT compatible with any other brake fluids. It has a higher boiling point, but for anything short of NASCAR, DON'T USE IT!

Motul is DOT 3 which was THE stuff to use for many years.

Question regarding the Fastline "Honda" routing ====>

I bought this hose and it seems incompatible with Yamaha fork guards. If you route to the inside of the fork leg (as on a Honda ) the external slide guide slams into it during its stroke. On a Honda this guide is internal. What gives? How can this possibly work without destroying the new brake line. I routed it to the outside (temporarily) so I can ride the bike but it will be damaged in my first left handed crash.

What gives? Please help!

Ken..

I removed the guides from the forks and tossed em, but you could just trim that external tab so your cable doesn't hit.

Ken you have to get a clamp that holds the brake line to your fork guard. DSP sells one thats carbon fiber for like 20 bucks. Rivet it to your fork guard and your ready to go. You might want to put a little extra piece of hose around the part that clamps the brakeline cause if you dont it will be a little loose.My brake line came loose without the extra piece of hose.Any ?s let me know.

Kevin,

I just put Motul 5.1 in my bike, simply because thats what the parts guy said was the best. That stuff will come out tonight, thanks for the info.

QUOTE: Ken you have to get a clamp that holds the brake line to your fork guard.

I have this clamp. The problem is that this clamp holds the hose against the guard making it a direct target for the plunging Yamaha fork guide. Move your forks and it becomes apparent.

I will consider removing the guide altogether or trimming it, as suggested above. Any other ideas?

Ken...

Ken im sorry but i dont run those fork guides,im assuming your talking about the white plastic collars that go around the forks.I have DSP carbon fork guards and dont run those collars.I have had no problems.I have a fastline brake line honda route and a DSP clamp and have had no problems.Im sorry if i mislead you, you might want to take those collars off and try it that way.

Good option Eddie,

I'll check the aftermarket for compatible guards. Raises the price of the hose a bit but I love the feel of my brake now. It would be hard to go back.

Ken..

Regarding DOT 5 fluid, it is silicone. Advantage is that it isn't "hydrophilic", meaning it does not like to absorb moisture the way typical brake fluid does. The moisture absorbtion causes corrosion, which is why you are supposed to change the fluid often, plus, under heat (hard use) the water boils and now you have air in the line. So why not use DOT 5 if it solves all of these problems? It is very compressible and creates a spongy feel, causing the very problem you're trying to get rid of with the new brake line. Not to mention the compatibility problem with standard fluid mentioned earlier here. I use it on an old farm truck that sits for years so I don't have to worry about corrosion, I'm not too concerned with brake modulation and pedal feel on that vehicle!!

i have oversize rotor and brakeline cr routed.i took stock brakeline clamp off bottom part of fork leg and moutned on fork guard.i saw that fork protecter clamp might hit brakeline clamp when forks were compressed so i got a couple tie down straps and used them to compress forks all the way down and then mounted so i could see where it was safe to mount brakeline clamp

There is a better way to mount that line to the fork gaurd. Simply run the cable through the stock loops but tie wrap the loops tightly around the new line. I saw this on a 250F, and felt stupid that I didnt think of it first.

Is it just me or is that stupid motomaster sign screwing with everyone computer?

shawn thats how mine is ran i mounted brakeline clamp also so the plastic fork guard loops did'nt have so much stress on them when forks where being compressed

blatham489, thanks for the info on the brake fluid. Seems the parts expert at my local shop, isnt so much of an expert.

here are some pics cr%20routing.JPG

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