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BoffoRider

Synthetic to Mineral Oil?

5 posts in this topic

only thing I would suggest and I would do this with any change of type

1: Drain oil when hot

2: Change Filter

3: Run bike one time (Normal Ride)

4: Repeat Steps 1 & 2

curious why you are changing?

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Follow Mr. Lorenz' procedure as stated, you'll be fine. All modern synthetics graded for general automotive use are 100% compatible with any mineral based (petroleum) non-synthetics.

You should use (according to Yamaha and other manufacturers of high performance 4 strokes) an oil with a JASO grade of MA, or API SG. Golden Spectra 4 is one such oil. If you have an engine with its oil supply seperate from its clutch, as with the CRFs, use an MB in the engine and an MA in the transmission.

Oils graded API SJ or higher should not be used (even, surprisingly, Yamalube 4, it's a street oil), since they contain inferior wear reducing additives, and contain "energy saving" friction modifiers that are detrimental to your clutch.

Some on TT have reported good results using Mobil one 15w-50 with the Red Cap (no energy saving additives), but the oils still do not have the sulpher based wear reducers of an SG oil, and a 50 wt oil is too heavy to circulate fast enough at extreme engine speeds in my opinion.

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Hi, John.

I was thinking of changing to semi-synthetic just so that I could get the best of both worlds. If I needed a quick top up then if I didn't have the synthetic available I could use mineral oil in a pinch.

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Oils graded API SJ or higher should not be used (even, surprisingly, Yamalube 4, it's a street oil), since they contain inferior wear reducing additives, and contain "energy saving" friction modifiers that are detrimental to your clutch.

Does this include the Yamalube-4R? That's what I've been running, but I think I'll go Mobil 1 cuz it's so much less expensive...

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