Improving clucth pull?

In the mountain bike industry you can improve lever pull and crispen up shifting by installing "GORE Ride-On" cables. Its like a standard cable but the actual cable slides within a sheath of GORE material within the cable jacket. The interface between jacket and cable is very slippery. They perform better when routed in severe bends too. Is there something available like this for motorcycles? It seems like it might be a good idea to ease that nasty clutch pull of the 426. Every little bit helps.

take your stock lever and drill a hole right in front of the existing hole and ream the inside where the cable runs. You can feel the difference and it cheaper then buying a dominator or easy pull :)

motion pro t2 cables are similar to this. but what i use is a magura hydraulic clutch unit. it easy pull considerably when installed correctly and also smooths clutch operation. it is adjustment free as well. it also never fades.

-alex

I extended the clutch actuator arm (by 4mm) and installed a Works Connection perch/lever and am happy with the results. 20% easier pull, I would guess.

You can buy a MSR "raptor" easy pull lever. Basically its what BigDesto described above. They are about 35 bucks. I have one...it works. Or you can add a little material to the clutch pull lever on the other end down by the engine for the same effect (leverage). Throw a motion pro cable into the mix and you'll have a nice smooth light clutch.

Mike

not to be smarta$$, but I have read numerous posts on this site regarding when to and when not to use the clutch. the general consensus I have gotten from you guys is that you use the clutch at the starts and both up and downshift without it. while I do not follow these procedures for reasons I will not elaborate on, I find it funny that if everyone did this why they would need an easier clutch pull? I also thought maybe if you used the clutch more, your hand and arm would get used to it more and become more conditioned, negating the need for an easier clutch. sure the hydraulic setups are neat and are fade free, but are they necessary? I know that I use my clucth both upshifting and downshifting and therefore use it much more frequently than I would use the clutch on my Ducati, but compared to the 996, this clutch is a dream.

just my opinion.

Yea but compared to a 125, a 426 stock clutch feel like a tank. I use my clutch on upshifts only ...usually. But even if I only used it for starts, Id rather have it lighter than heavier. Its nice to be able to use one finger to shift.

Mike

i need two fingers to pull the lever in in the air when i would like to be able to use only my middle finger. i can use my middle finger on the ground but up in the air for some reason i cant.

anyways, that would be my reason for having an easy clutch pull, so you can pull it in quicker with less hassle and correct yourself in the air :)

I agree the lighter the better. That theory exists because of competitive advantage however I do not think that even with a lighter clutch pull, a 125 has a competitive advantage compared to a 426, unless you are racing in your backyard. In a class with 250's and other 4 strokes, your stock pull will be equally as hard or soft to everyone elses stock pull.

I would love to buy a hebo, but it is something else to screw with and something else to break and costs money. The stock clutch which I already bought works just fine, besides if you are riding a 400 or 426 against the new bikes, you are already at a disadvantage due to weight and and the lack of autodecompression when you stall it. If you are riding it in the woods with stock gearing and no flywheel weight constantly having to clutch it, I could see it, but for mx, I do not see spending the money.

Exactly, the reason for a ligth pull would be the need to pull it in quickly and consistantly to correct yourself in the air.

Who uses the clutch :)

I will pladgerize My Buddy with

Clutch use is Clutch Abuse

One thing I do not understand is this, My 00 clutch is not a problem pulling in, I do not get tired of it, I dont use it only when putzing around. I dont understand the fuss on the clutch pull I personally dont think its a problem...

But the points of light pull in the air and doing this doing that.

I think ther is to much imphasas on how I look when I do a kick out or a nak nak or a hey looki what I can do then just going fast.

Races arnt won in the air, ther won with the back tire on the ground and at full throttle...

[ July 17, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

why would you pull in the clutch in the air to correct yourself. I am assuming so you can tap the rear brake to drop the nose. On a 2 stroke I could see this. I remember when every new 4 stroke rider was having problems keeping the front high enough, now I guess physics has changed and they are in a nose high attitude. My bike jumps level or a little nose low, besides front end attitude in the air is mostly determined by rebound damping in your shock, but if you wanted to lower the nose, all you have to do is tap the front brake. much easier and yields the same effect without having to screw with the clutch. Maybe unconventional, but does that make it wrong? try it works, and in spite of what I have read here, it is no more dangerous than using the rear brake.

I know exactly what you are saying Bambi. I myself have done the front brake tap on occasion and yes it does work, but I do think that there are some flaws in it. (1) I think that alot of your front end stability in the air is due to the gyro of a spinning front wheel, stop that wheel and all the sudden you have steering that has a tendancy to flop around, it takes a conscious effort to keep straight. (2) If you stop the wheel in the air, then land on the front wheel, depending on the terrain, the wheel has to go from 0-20/30 in 0 seconds. If you are landing in powdered sugar it becomes somewhat of a traction issue. By itself it wouldnt be bad, but compound it with the lack of gyro/sloppy steering and it just makes things more difficult than they need to be. (3) How come I never see the pros use the front?, Fact, the rear wheel is heavier and has alot more rotational mass and has a greater potential to correct the problem than the front.

------

The comment about how all the sudden physics have changed and now its opposite of how people were having trouble keeping the rear down, I guess that depends on the track you ride. Alot of the jumps I take require a constant pull up the face in order to clear the rear, this creates the nose up tradjectory. So its not a constant thing, but it sure would be nice to clear the jump and land flat or nose down, and avoid that nasty wet noodle slap from landing rear first.

[ July 17, 2002: Message edited by: Yak ]

[ July 17, 2002: Message edited by: Yak ]

GO out

spend the $35

simple

simple

simple

RAPTOR MSR

you will thoroughly be surprised!!! :)

I would have to say that is the best 30bucks I have EVER spent!

Rock HUcker

That would be a real good post

the best 30bucks I have EVER spent!

It could be

The Best 30 Bucks You Ever Spent

and list the product, Dead seriuos, It would be cool to see the responces and the improvement

Wudday think

[ July 17, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

Exactly Rock hucker!!

Bambi, with all due respect...the guy is just asking how to lighten up the clutch pull. Nothing wrong with a nice light clutch. Bye the way, what kind of airplanes do you fly? Ive spent a lot of time in Beech Barrons and Bonnanzas.

Mike

FylingGuters

I fly a p51, f22 raptor mig29 and a f-16

Of couse ther on me computer, But I only crash on landings and get shot down most all the time.

I like flying head on into the other guy who just shot me down

Hehe

I never use the clutch upshifting and always use it downshifting. A lighter pull is a must for me. I find it easy to feather the clutch exiting tight corners, that immediately go into a double. Trying to feed that perfect amount of throttle to keep wheel spin down, is to hard. Compared to rolling the throttle on agressivly and using the clutch to maintain traction.

Bill

I have flown:

BE-76(Duchess)

C-150

C-172

C-172RG

C-182

C-182RG

PA24(Comanche)

PA28(Cherokee Warrior)

PA31(Navajo)

PA34(Seneca)

PA44(Seminole)

and I have sim time in BE200(King Air), SAAB2000, and CL65(Regional Jet)

Most recently, I was hired by ASA(Delta Commuter) and was awaiting a training date when 9/11 happened and I lost my job. I will never know, but I probably would have gotten the CRJ or CL65(Canadair Regional Jet). The screwed up part is I gave up a job opportunity with the DE ANG to fly C130s to go to ASA. Things are looking up though because if all goes as planned I will interview with both Wisconsin and Colorado to fly F16s this summer. I would have to wait until FY2004 to start training, but if the economy crashes even worse, I won't lose my job this time. Right now I am doing the CFI thing and there is a chance of flying for a construction company in their Bonanza.

Blue Skies

[ July 17, 2002: Message edited by: Bambislayer ]

Hey Yak, you should really try modifing your own clutch lever!It's free,and it works! Lighter clutch pull for sure. Save your money for something else. :)

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