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John_Lorenz

Air Screw Fell out - anyone figure out how to keep it from doing thats

13 posts in this topic

Well

For all the posts I have read on the Air Screw screw assembly falling out, it happend, dang one hour of ride and all I got was dusty.

So as I wait for the new parts to come in (Ordered two kits) I will be taking the carb apart to clean.

From there I am going to look at creating a rubber insert that will go up into the air screw hole, to keep it from backing out.

Unless someone has another method, I thought that wrapping a small piece of teflon would suffice.

Moral of the story, check your screw occasionally, ya dont want to ride with a screw loose :)

[ July 15, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

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You shouldnt loose the screw. Although, Id say unless you spend a couple of decades in therapy, you'll always have a screw loose my friend :)

If you ordered the kits, I assumen it comes with the spring, washer and O-ring. I ended up going to a larger pilot and running the screw at 1 1/2, as opposed to running the screw at 2 or more with the smaller pilot. I was running a 42 (stock) pilot at 2 1/4 turns and found that it acted like it wanted more. I swapped the pilot and closed the screw to 1 1/2 and its crisper than it was with the 42 at 2 1/2 out and the screw doesn't fall out. Speaking of days of wasted riding, I went out on Friday afternoon ran 8 laps and loaded the circus up. Too freakin hot. Id go three and my tounge would be draggin.

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Shawn

I am running a 45 with it at 1 1/2, I also wrapped a very thin piece of teflon tape around it to address vibration. But I guess me Vibrator was on High :)

23 freaking dollors, gad dang oem parts,I am looking for another supplier aka Circut or Rockymountain and yes its the whole assembly...

[ July 15, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

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I haven't checked the part numbers yet, but on my '99 400 I can't take the fuel screw out unless I remove the float bowl first. Maybe there is a diffference in the float bowls.

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Try Sudco at Sudco.com. Carb parts wherehouse, they've got everything. You might even be able to get one of them trick long ones with the t handle on it.

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My local dealer,

I got two of them

Part # 3TJ-14105-40-000

I figure on two becouse some dim wad like me will be walking up and down the camp sites asking 426 owners if they have a spare.

Mine is for sale 50 bucks :D

I did check the sudco site, I was unable to determine if the parts I found were correct. I did not call should have though. I figure this is one area OEM rules so I stuck with it. Both Kits 53 bucks

Hey Shawn Got any more of that 10 buck Glue :)

[ July 16, 2002: Message edited by: E.G.O.**** ]

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Ego why didn't you just order the Kouba t-handle with the screw spring and washer. I paid 40 bucks for two of them and still have one. when I got the screw it was backing itself in when I hit the gas to about 1.25 turns out and was staying there bike ran ok but I wanted a little more so I used a little blue loctite on the threads and now it is set in place at about 1.5 to 1.75 turns out. with stock jetting also. Bike is running good finally. I know i will catch he!! for the loctite but having the t-handle on their I can just take a small pair of needle nose and should be able to break it loose. Just my 2 cents Ego, Norman Kouba is great to work with though I talked to him on the phone and he sent them right out to me at work. Frank :)

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Now have you ever told me this::

"do a search" if you haven't I know someone has, do a search on Koubalink, or Kouba, or T-handle fuel screw.

or the website is.....www.kouba.com

check it out!! Frank

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my air screw fell out so I got a small spedometer cable and silverbrazed a T on one end and the screw on the other.Not only do I have a leash but also a remote adjuster. joel

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